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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 81036
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 182
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XJ Unibody reinforcement
I've been looking into reinforcing the Unibody structure of my XJ before I add a lift to it... I've found a few different options...
For the front example http://www.temper-mentalracing.net/services.htm For the middle example http://www.tntcustoms.com/webv5/xjstiffeners.asp But asking the local shops about weld on instalation, no one will touch it, saying the factory metal will weaken by welding that much to it, claiming it's a hardened steel (it made me wonder why they would be willing to weld on the suspension links) so I got to thinking about essentialy welding these 2 peices together, then bolting it all on to the unibody using through bolt spacers, and connecting the suspension and cross members to it as though it was a subframe Am I crazy? are these shops being dumb? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Member # 87694
Posts: 15
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the shops are being safe, b/c if not done absolutely correct the unibody welds will crack and brend or break the unibody. Plus I dont know where u live but in some states its illegal to weld to the unibody anyway.
My opinion is start off with just the tnt kit and weld it on than drive it for awhile and see how the flex is affected and keep an eye on the welds for stress cracking, than play with the idea of the temper-mental kit. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Member # 37184
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 1,323
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Lots of stuff arround regarding XJ frame stiffening. Here's one I think is good: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...highlight=TOTW
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88XJ, Chevy 5.7L, Edelbrock MPFI, NV4500, Atlas, D44's, high steer, ARB's, 7" custom semi long-arm 3 or 4-link lift, BFG 33x12.5-15's. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Gravo Malum!!!
Join Date: Jan 2003
Member # 16548
Location: Minden, Nv
Posts: 1,613
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I used 3x3 angle iron and it's been perfect. I stitch welded the top 2" every 4" or so, then I rosette welded 10 spots per side then I added 4 - 3/4" bolts through the unibody per side also. I don't think its going anywhere.
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98' XJuggy |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Stands to wipe.
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 81266
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 399
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I am very n00b-ish when it comes to the unibody on our XJs, but could this work? Could you cut the bottom of the unibody rail off, and slide some box steel into the slot and bolt it to the unibody through the sides and the top? As long as the box steel was strong enough, you could tighten the bolts pretty tight without needing spacers to keep from caving the rails in.
(see cheezy picture) I don't know how wide the rails are internally, so this may be mute. in theory, you could make a whole frame from the firewall back relatively "easy" that had stronger plate steel mounts for the suspension points and such. And if the rig was wrecked body wise later on, the "frame" could be unbolted and transfered to a new donor XJ. If you really knew what you were doing, you could possibly build the frame all the way to the front to hold the motor and all. Then, you would take an XJ, cut the framerails from the firewall forward off, cut the bottom of the rest of the rails out, slip the body onto your box frame, and bolt the fenders and front on. As long as the box steel frame was strong enough, cutting the bottom of the unibody rail shouldn't weaken anything, "in theory". Regular frame cars just bolt to a box frame in 4-10 places and hold fine. Once again, it may not be feasible for the time and effort involved as well as other unthought of things I don't know about, since I am relatively new to toying with XJs. I just like to let the creative juices flow every now and then. Last edited by BB1980; 04-09-2007 at 08:26 PM. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Member # 26761
Location: 15 MILES FROM FORDYCE
Posts: 504
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Quote:
This guy rocks http://board.marlincrawler.com/index....msg364044#new
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make your rig do its job |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Rock God
Join Date: Dec 2003
Member # 25239
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 1,065
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Quote:
For those who might think this is unique to a unibody constuction, it happens to full frame rigs as well. I've done trail repairs on frames on CJ's and Toyota's as well as XJ's, and companies make frame strengthening plates for a wide variety of 4x4 rigs.
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Richard Gauthier Ultra4 Stock Class Team NAXJA /Petty Cash Racing 4643 Thanks to NAXJA, Goodyear, BILSTEIN, Ten Factory, Brown Dog, Hooker Harness, Raceline Wheels, G&G Auto Repair, WARN, Yukon Gear and Axle, Solid Axle, JKS, Full Traction, Viking Winchline, Black Magic Brakes |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Member # 37184
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 1,323
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I read somewhere the XJ frame is made from high tensile steel, as apposed to mild steel.
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88XJ, Chevy 5.7L, Edelbrock MPFI, NV4500, Atlas, D44's, high steer, ARB's, 7" custom semi long-arm 3 or 4-link lift, BFG 33x12.5-15's. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 22209
Location: New Hampsterchussetts
Posts: 783
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The steel strength varies section to section, as they felt it was needed.
I think the FSM explains what type of steel was used where.
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88' hEEP trail rig 89' hEEP daily driver |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Rock God
Join Date: Dec 2003
Member # 25239
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 1,065
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Quote:
OK mister super duper sheetmetal fab guy, show us how you did it.
__________________
Richard Gauthier Ultra4 Stock Class Team NAXJA /Petty Cash Racing 4643 Thanks to NAXJA, Goodyear, BILSTEIN, Ten Factory, Brown Dog, Hooker Harness, Raceline Wheels, G&G Auto Repair, WARN, Yukon Gear and Axle, Solid Axle, JKS, Full Traction, Viking Winchline, Black Magic Brakes |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2000
Member # 2521
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 956
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Yeah- sounds like way too much work. And if you want a scare sometime, put a basic c-clamp like you'd use for a brake job on the sides of your 'frame' rails and give it a little twist. This is why I think the reinforcements would need welding.
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#16 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Dec 2003
Member # 25239
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 1,065
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Yeah, I agree that it's too much work. Plus, I wouldn't want to cut that much of the frame out in case the whole thing moved around while you're working on it. A couple of things on stiffening the frame. It seems that people have good results strengthening between the front control arm mounts and the front leaf spring hangers. Adding structure is more important than just adding thick steel. Don't make the mistake of just adding a cage and or frame reinforcement just to the A pillars, there is a lot of flex from the A pillars forward. There is tremendous movement/twisting of the frame around the track bar mount, as well as the steering box. It seems to be a mistake to just stiffen certain parts of the chassis, since then flex becomes centered in the smaller sections that are un-reinforced resulting in cracks. I think those front reinforcements from Temper-Mental look real good, as do the TnT frame stiffeners. The SBS reinforcment system from JKS is very good, easily the best available for the steering box, and they come for both sides. One thing that's nice is that those who are building XJ/MJ's now can use this info and reinforce everything right from the start. Us old timers learned the hard way and have done it an element at a time, repairing stress cracks as we went.
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Richard Gauthier Ultra4 Stock Class Team NAXJA /Petty Cash Racing 4643 Thanks to NAXJA, Goodyear, BILSTEIN, Ten Factory, Brown Dog, Hooker Harness, Raceline Wheels, G&G Auto Repair, WARN, Yukon Gear and Axle, Solid Axle, JKS, Full Traction, Viking Winchline, Black Magic Brakes |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 17928
Location: sandy oregon
Posts: 15
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Quote:
But it makes for a good spot to tie in a cage or sliders!
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89 XJ, Front leaf conv., Spooled and locked 44's front and rear, 5.38's, 8274, 38.5x11 Boggers. |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 50718
Posts: 227
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I see the pic, and I have seen Captian Ron's sheet metal reinforcement elsewhere, and it's probably the best looking job ive seen. Not to say its the strongest or most hardcore, but it is def the most asthetically pleasing setup.
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#21 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Dec 2003
Member # 25239
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 1,065
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The only thing you can tease me with is a working CNC machine.....
__________________
Richard Gauthier Ultra4 Stock Class Team NAXJA /Petty Cash Racing 4643 Thanks to NAXJA, Goodyear, BILSTEIN, Ten Factory, Brown Dog, Hooker Harness, Raceline Wheels, G&G Auto Repair, WARN, Yukon Gear and Axle, Solid Axle, JKS, Full Traction, Viking Winchline, Black Magic Brakes |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2002
Member # 10249
Location: Vail, Arizona
Posts: 4,514
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I have had no cracks on mine in the center section and it was welded years ago. I think I found a crack near where my front coil over hoops mount, thats pretty new to my rig. I might have to add more tubing, as it evolves you look for stress points and add material where needed.
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Dave, 2013 KOH "Got, Some of it" #697 JIMMY'S 4X4 Grand Cherokee Buggy ADS Shocks LQ4-Th400-Atlas4sp D60 14B Come wheel with us WheelingArizona.com Ashman's youtube channel |
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