Help me out - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

MercenaryXJ · 04-19-2007, 11:37 AM

Okay. Before you say it I have searched (In both NAXJA and by skimming Pirate) and what I have found is a lot of opinions and install tech but no hard facts.

So I just got some chevy flattop knuckles and highg steer arms off ebay that im using with my D44/9in conversion. The seller has the arms available for heim joints or TRE. What *EXACTLY* are the benefits a disadvantages of both when used in a high steer setup. Keep in mind this is also a DD. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in Advance.

The Rockslut · 04-19-2007, 02:10 PM

Go with TRE's

gottagofast · 04-19-2007, 04:27 PM

x2

TJP · 04-19-2007, 07:41 PM

x3

Xjcrawler736 · 04-19-2007, 08:42 PM

Heims can get sloppy over time and make your steering wheel have some play in it. Since it is your daily driver and all heims arent going to be the best choice. Listen to the other guys.

Goatman · 04-20-2007, 03:25 AM

I don't think it makes much difference......depending on the design, and if you're going to be in dry conditions all the time or mud. You can't go wrong with TRE's, but the heim joints won't get sloppy if you buy good ones and it's easier to fab if you're making your own stuff. Mine is all heim joints other than at the pitman arm, and that joint has worn out regularly, I finally put a slight bend in the drag link so the TRE didn't get overextended and now it's lasting OK....but I still check it regularly.

I've never heard a convincing argument for using TRE's, though it's a good idea, and heim joints are used on race cars and offroad race trucks, so nothing wrong with them, either.

OlyWaXJ · 04-20-2007, 05:06 AM

[QUOTE=Goatman;6716653]I finally put a slight bend in the drag link so the TRE didn't get overextended and now it's lasting OK....but I still check it regularly.QUOTE]

I think I'm going to have the same problem.With 6" of lift a D44 with flattops,highsteer and TRE's I max the one at the pitman arm with the passenger side at full droop.

OlyWa

MercenaryXJ · 04-20-2007, 05:28 PM

Alright thanks for the advice guys, I think Ill be going with TRE after taking in your advice and discussing it with a local lift shop, a fab shop up by paragon and the boys at PORC

hadfield4wd · 04-20-2007, 06:51 PM

On the pitman arm side use a drag link end. Yes there is a difference. A TRE only allows 15 deg of movement and Draglink end allows 40 deg. I can get the part numbers if you like.

MercenaryXJ · 04-24-2007, 01:40 PM

yea if you got the number could you post em up. thanks

Bubba_Jeep · 04-24-2007, 09:20 PM

The kit I used from partsmike uses a Pittman arm TRE, ES2026R, with 60* of motion. http://www.partsmike.com/old/tre_comparison.htm

Goatman · 04-25-2007, 12:53 AM

Also, to avoid having to ream the pitman arm to a different taper, you can get a TRE that has the 7/8" 18 thread (used on the 1 ton TRE's) with the smaller stock Jeep taper, from TeraFlex. That gives you a larger TRE with a lot of movement angle without having to remove and taper the pitman arm. Anyplace that carries Tera stuff can get them. It also can make it easier if you're building steering links that are 7/8 18 thread for the larger TRE's. The stock XJ TRE thread at the pitman arm is 20mm 1.5.

TJP · 04-26-2007, 06:59 PM

good steering gets a bump

04-19-2007, 11:37 AM	#1 (permalink)
MercenaryXJ Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Member # 87694 Posts: 15	Help me out Okay. Before you say it I have searched (In both NAXJA and by skimming Pirate) and what I have found is a lot of opinions and install tech but no hard facts. So I just got some chevy flattop knuckles and highg steer arms off ebay that im using with my D44/9in conversion. The seller has the arms available for heim joints or TRE. What EXACTLY are the benefits a disadvantages of both when used in a high steer setup. Keep in mind this is also a DD. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in Advance.

04-19-2007, 02:10 PM	#2 (permalink)
The Rockslut Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Member # 5021 Location: Lincoln, CA Posts: 5,967	Go with TRE's __________________ Don't be "THAT GUY" on the trail. www.voodoowax.com

04-19-2007, 04:27 PM	#3 (permalink)
gottagofast Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Member # 19031 Location: louisville KY Posts: 1,078	x2 __________________ Kevin [URL="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=567624"]My build thread[/URL] Killed the S-10 n2 jeeps now

04-19-2007, 07:41 PM	#4 (permalink)
TJP Crazy Diamond Join Date: Oct 2001 Member # 7595 Location: Alternate Universe Posts: 1,145	x3 __________________ Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds.” -Albert Einstein

04-19-2007, 08:42 PM	#5 (permalink)
Xjcrawler736 Zeus of the Sluice Join Date: Jan 2007 Member # 84970 Location: Lansdale, PA Posts: 3,855	Heims can get sloppy over time and make your steering wheel have some play in it. Since it is your daily driver and all heims arent going to be the best choice. Listen to the other guys. __________________ RCrocs/Line Mt. - Route 63 Motorsports #736 Ultra4 #4343 Co-driver - Molten Motorsports

04-20-2007, 03:25 AM	#6 (permalink)
Goatman Rock God Join Date: Dec 2003 Member # 25239 Location: Bakersfield, CA Posts: 1,065	I don't think it makes much difference......depending on the design, and if you're going to be in dry conditions all the time or mud. You can't go wrong with TRE's, but the heim joints won't get sloppy if you buy good ones and it's easier to fab if you're making your own stuff. Mine is all heim joints other than at the pitman arm, and that joint has worn out regularly, I finally put a slight bend in the drag link so the TRE didn't get overextended and now it's lasting OK....but I still check it regularly. I've never heard a convincing argument for using TRE's, though it's a good idea, and heim joints are used on race cars and offroad race trucks, so nothing wrong with them, either. __________________ Richard Gauthier Ultra4 Stock Class Team NAXJA /Petty Cash Racing 4643 Thanks to NAXJA, Goodyear, BILSTEIN, Ten Factory, Brown Dog, Hooker Harness, Raceline Wheels, G&G Auto Repair, WARN, Yukon Gear and Axle, Solid Axle, JKS, Full Traction, Viking Winchline, Black Magic Brakes

04-20-2007, 05:06 AM	#7 (permalink)
OlyWaXJ Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Member # 22393 Location: OlyWa Posts: 281	[QUOTE=Goatman;6716653]I finally put a slight bend in the drag link so the TRE didn't get overextended and now it's lasting OK....but I still check it regularly.QUOTE] I think I'm going to have the same problem.With 6" of lift a D44 with flattops,highsteer and TRE's I max the one at the pitman arm with the passenger side at full droop. OlyWa

04-20-2007, 05:28 PM	#8 (permalink)
MercenaryXJ Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Member # 87694 Posts: 15	Alright thanks for the advice guys, I think Ill be going with TRE after taking in your advice and discussing it with a local lift shop, a fab shop up by paragon and the boys at PORC

04-20-2007, 06:51 PM	#9 (permalink)
hadfield4wd Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Member # 82644 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 2,128	On the pitman arm side use a drag link end. Yes there is a difference. A TRE only allows 15 deg of movement and Draglink end allows 40 deg. I can get the part numbers if you like. __________________ [QUOTE=xjdoug;9487015]this is like watching a kid stick his finger in a light socket.... sooner or later he's gonna figure out why the rest of us arent doin it...[/QUOTE]

04-24-2007, 01:40 PM	#10 (permalink)
MercenaryXJ Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Member # 87694 Posts: 15	yea if you got the number could you post em up. thanks

04-24-2007, 09:20 PM	#11 (permalink)
Bubba_Jeep Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Member # 37184 Location: Santa Barbara, CA Posts: 1,323	The kit I used from partsmike uses a Pittman arm TRE, ES2026R, with 60* of motion. http://www.partsmike.com/old/tre_comparison.htm __________________ 88XJ, Chevy 5.7L, Edelbrock MPFI, NV4500, Atlas, D44's, high steer, ARB's, 7" custom semi long-arm 3 or 4-link lift, BFG 33x12.5-15's.

04-25-2007, 12:53 AM	#12 (permalink)
Goatman Rock God Join Date: Dec 2003 Member # 25239 Location: Bakersfield, CA Posts: 1,065	Also, to avoid having to ream the pitman arm to a different taper, you can get a TRE that has the 7/8" 18 thread (used on the 1 ton TRE's) with the smaller stock Jeep taper, from TeraFlex. That gives you a larger TRE with a lot of movement angle without having to remove and taper the pitman arm. Anyplace that carries Tera stuff can get them. It also can make it easier if you're building steering links that are 7/8 18 thread for the larger TRE's. The stock XJ TRE thread at the pitman arm is 20mm 1.5. __________________ Richard Gauthier Ultra4 Stock Class Team NAXJA /Petty Cash Racing 4643 Thanks to NAXJA, Goodyear, BILSTEIN, Ten Factory, Brown Dog, Hooker Harness, Raceline Wheels, G&G Auto Repair, WARN, Yukon Gear and Axle, Solid Axle, JKS, Full Traction, Viking Winchline, Black Magic Brakes

04-26-2007, 06:59 PM	#13 (permalink)
TJP Crazy Diamond Join Date: Oct 2001 Member # 7595 Location: Alternate Universe Posts: 1,145	good steering gets a bump __________________ Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds.” -Albert Einstein

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