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Old 05-01-2007, 01:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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drivers side Front 3-link.... is there room?

I'm running out of space ! I just finished 4-linking the rear of the Xj and i'm looking at doing away with my RE style radius links in favor of a 3-link. I hastily welded a 3/8 plate truss across the diff of the HP 44 going in. I don't really like the idea of a super-braced pass. side axle mount for a 3- link as i'm worried about the link separation with the center of the lowers mounted at the centerline of the axle tube. That leaves me with running a link on the drivers side. I'm not scared of cutting sheet metal as i already have to worry about covering up holes for a flipped 231doubler to a flipped 300 and two rear upper links


Any pics of driver side 3-links? i've found several for tj's but not sooo much luck with the xj.

thanks in advance !
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Old 05-01-2007, 01:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Not the best picture, but its a picture I guess.



I don't know how well the lower links being at the center of the axle will be. I would imagine if you are going with a 3-link you would want them towards the bottom, so the 3rd link effectively keeps the pinion angle intact.
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Old 05-01-2007, 05:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Here's mine, about 40,000 miles on it and it works well.
The axle housing with all the bracketry welded on...

Driver's side...

After a lot of trail time...
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Old 05-01-2007, 07:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You guys really need to get over the "centerline of the axle" theory. It's bullshit. Having the link mounted at the axle centerline does NOT suddenly create infinite force on the other links, and in fact it's not much different than mounting it anywhere else.

FWIW, I run a single upper link on the driver's side in my XJ, with a passenger-drop diff, trussed all the way across. No biggie. Other folks have done them on the opposite sides too.

I dunno if it'll help your situation much, but here's how I snuck it in there...





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Old 05-01-2007, 07:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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My upper link is on the passenger side, as is Paul Sinclair's, and we've wheeled the dog shit out of them, both crawling and hauling ass. Mine has been that way for 6+ years. And, my lowers are in the middle of the tube (actually, slightly above center line).

Build it right, make it strong, make the seperation enough, and don't worry about what side it's on. I adjusted mine one time, increased the seperation at the axle to increase anti-dive, and it works well. If you want it on the drivers side, go for it, it can be done....but don't worry that you shouldn't put it on the pass side.
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Old 05-02-2007, 07:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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It can't be done
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:49 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MudOnTheTireS10 View Post
Not the best picture, but its a picture I guess.



I don't know how well the lower links being at the center of the axle will be. I would imagine if you are going with a 3-link you would want them towards the bottom, so the 3rd link effectively keeps the pinion angle intact.
I hope that upper link is parallel to the bottom links, otherwise whats the frickin point??
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I hope that upper link is parallel to the bottom links, otherwise whats the frickin point??
They shouldnt be parallel, its called proper geomtery
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:57 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardcorewannabeXJ View Post
I hope that upper link is parallel to the bottom links, otherwise whats the frickin point??
Huh? What makes you say that?
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Old 05-02-2007, 11:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Why not just weld the upper to the top of the pumpkin? (why angle it to the side?)


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Old 05-02-2007, 12:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Without doing it properly you can not weld mild steel to cast iron and get a sound weld...It can be done but the average person does not have the equipment to do it.
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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As far as I'm concerned, the upper link is pretty much only there to keep the pinion angle correct.
Also, welding the upper on the pumpkin brings up the cast issue, plus if you have a lot of uptravel there might be concerns with contact of parts above it. Had to consider the driveshaft being in that same general area as well.
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Old 05-03-2007, 04:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Tech to the top BS to the bottom...
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Old 05-03-2007, 05:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Rockslut View Post
They shouldnt be parallel, its called proper geomtery
For a parralell 3 link setup w/panhard, the upper and lower links should be the same length and parralell to eachother horizontally for it to keep the pinion angle continous througout the range of motion. From the picture it looked like it may not have been :P

Looks much better in pic2 ! Got a build thread on that S10?? Got a guy here locally who we are trying to get to do the same thing!

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Old 05-03-2007, 05:33 PM   #15 (permalink)
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how do front 3 links due under hard breaking on the street?
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Old 05-03-2007, 09:45 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Got a build thread on that S10?? Got a guy here locally who we are trying to get to do the same thing!
Don't have a build thread I don't think. I have some threads in different places that recaps everything with all the pictures I have, and then there is the photobucket location. PM me if you're wanting to see those and I'll dig up some links.
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Old 05-03-2007, 09:53 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardcorewannabeXJ View Post
For a parralell 3 link setup w/panhard, the upper and lower links should be the same length and parralell to eachother horizontally for it to keep the pinion angle continous througout the range of motion. From the picture it looked like it may not have been :P
You're still making no sense.

Keeping the pinion angle constant should be the least of your concerns.
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Old 05-04-2007, 09:02 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Will the driveshaft work like that ?
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Old 05-04-2007, 09:09 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Will the driveshaft work like that ?
Yeah, driveshaft angle is great. That picture is at full droop, so it normally sits quite a bit lower. The DS angle at ride height is awesome actually.
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Old 05-04-2007, 09:12 AM   #20 (permalink)
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For a parralell 3 link setup w/panhard, the upper and lower links should be the same length and parralell to eachother horizontally for it to keep the pinion angle continous througout the range of motion. From the picture it looked like it may not have been :P

Looks much better in pic2 ! Got a build thread on that S10?? Got a guy here locally who we are trying to get to do the same thing!


You're a dumbass and are contributing to the reason that dudes like adam90xj come here thinking that what they have done is correct...and then get all worried when it doesn't work right. If you don't know what the fawk you are talking about, go back to asking questions until you do know.







Adam: definitely move that upper link to the top of the diff at least. I've successfully welded to cast with either 6010 or 6011 (Can't remember). However, it wasn't pretty and I do suggest that you find someone with an arc welder or pay a welding shop to weld it with hi nickle content rod.

Actually, depending on the room, you want the upper link o be as close to center as possible. This helps to distribute braking forces evenly. Now don't get crazy if you can get to the actual center...just get it as close as possible TOWARDS the center without causing yourself heartache.
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Old 05-04-2007, 09:31 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Here are four links to photo albums of my setup. I put a long arm 3 link on the drivers side of an xj with 4.0L/AW4/NP231/HP D44 front/LP D44 rear. It took some work, but it fit. I did rotate the 231 up just a touch, used a stock tranny mount, have a flat crossmemeber even with the bottom of the frame rails, modified the AW4 shifter a little to put the shift arm closer to the tranny, and redid the t-case shifter so the lever at the t-case points up and there is one link from that lever to the stock tunnel mounted cab shift lever. Some of the above posters have manual tranny's, different t-cases, or run shorter arms. All can be made to work with enough reworking of things. Jeff

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...=8IbtGzVo3bMoc

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...=8IbtGzVo3bMo-

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...=8IbtGzVo3bMpY

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...=8IbtGzVo3bMp6

I should mention that I used 4x6 box tubing cut in half to plate my frame rails, so the mounting of my crossmember may look a bit different. Here is an album of the frame rail work prior to doing the long arm 3 link front.

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...=8IbtGzVo3bMqU

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Old 05-04-2007, 11:56 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I did a double triangulated 4link but my upper link frame mount idea could be used on a parellel 3, 4link.





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Old 05-04-2007, 12:48 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I did a double triangulated 4link but my upper link frame mount idea could be used on a parellel 3, 4link.





That's interesting. I feel the vertical separation of the links at the frame is pretty minimal though. My setup puts the link up into the transmission tunnel. I'm not saying your setup doesn't work, but I just wanted to point out the minimal vertical separation of the links at the frame. Jeff
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Old 05-04-2007, 12:56 PM   #24 (permalink)
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When I look at my truck, I fee like if I would have put the upper link on top of the pumpkin that I would have issues if the drivers side ever fully compresses.
I can't really see that upper link not having clearance problems. Maybe its just me?
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Old 05-04-2007, 03:00 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scout Dude View Post
You're a dumbass and are contributing to the reason that dudes like adam90xj come here thinking that what they have done is correct...and then get all worried when it doesn't work right. If you don't know what the fawk you are talking about, go back to asking questions until you do know.
Well then please enlighten the world with your wisdom as to the workings of a 3 link parallel system w/Panhard bar!
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