Tips for clearing 38's on XJ

[1toughxj]

I've been running a Super 44 rear and a front HP 44 for a couple of years on 35's and I have plans to go bigger. I've picked up a FF 14-bolt and a HP 60 to build for this next phase. I wanna run 38's to clear the 14-bolt diff. What's needed to clear 38's, or are 37's a much better fit on an XJ. Here is a pic of the rig in it's current form. I'm running a Full Traction 6" long arm kit and will be stepping up the lift if necessary, although I would like to keep the COG lower if possible. Just looking for some insight to help me make a decision on tires.

[Capt. Nemo]

I'm on 37's with about 7" of lift and lots of trimming. Are you staying full width on the axles? When I ran the FT front stuff, my old 35's rubbed the LCA's really hard. I imagine that 38's will rub the LCA's without a good amount of backspacing. You'll need to trim the fenders a fair amount in order to have any amount of up travel.

And then there's the limit of your body if you're wanting to really get the most out of one tons and 38's. A full bodied rig will limit you much more than your drivetrain in this case.

Here's mine on 37's and lots of trimming:

[1toughxj]

Running the front D60 @ 65" and the 14-bolt @ 63". Hoping that couple of inches will help keep the tires away from the control arms at full lock. I'll finally be pulling the flares and trimming the crap out of the fenders. How creative will the trimming need to be in the rear?

[RockcontrolXJ]

How creative will the trimming need to be in the rear?

With a 4 door, if you don't want too much lift you might have to get creative........

37's with 7.5" lift (rubbed like a motherfucker)



37's with 5" lift (still rubs in the rear)

[DirtyComanche]

8" with 37s. Maybe. But after I punch the front axle out another two inches and finish chopping one little peice, I should be able to fit 42s at that height... But I think I'm going to drop it 2"~ and stick with 37s.

[pipehitter155]

here's mine pushed back 6 inch and w/ 39.5 IROKS.....basically just opened up the wheel 4 inches more

[vetteboy79]

Around 7.5" and 39.5s...



Bumpstops are set about an inch longer now, but this is how it stuffs:





The front is actually the same trimming I had for 33's. Just cut back to fit the TJ flares.

[1toughxj]

Looks like I should stick with 37's for now. I just don't know if they will net me enough clearance underneath the diffs of the 14-bolt and 60???

[AZFJ]

Sawzall cures all....About 7" of lift..with 35's...then 37"..now 40" MAXXIS...SAME LIFT

[KCMONSTER]

Originally Posted by 1toughxj

Looks like I should stick with 37's for now. I just don't know if they will net me enough clearance underneath the diffs of the 14-bolt and 60???

Realistically a 38 isn't going to require any more work to fit than a 37, so if you really want 38's, get them. But keep in mind both are going to require moderate to heavy trimming or suspension modification for proper fitment with any kind of suspension travel.

The best balance between trimming and modifying IMO would be...

Extend the links on the front end while swapping in the 60. 4in or so, right in there. Then bumpstop it to keep the tire out of the fender. In the rear, cut off the lower quarter panel just below the beltline [edit: similar to AZFJ's top pic] and fabricate a pan to fill the gap. Finish it, paint it, etc. Then swap the current springs for a set of 52in. Chevy leaves. That'll move the rear axle back roughly 3in. while still maintaining the same overall spring length as your XJ leaves. Adjust the bumpstops and you should be good to go.

[1toughxj]

Sounds like a good plan.

Originally Posted by KCMONSTER

Realistically a 38 isn't going to require any more work to fit than a 37, so if you really want 38's, get them. But keep in mind both are going to require moderate to heavy trimming or suspension modification for proper fitment with any kind of suspension travel.

The best balance between trimming and modifying IMO would be...

Extend the links on the front end while swapping in the 60. 4in or so, right in there. Then bumpstop it to keep the tire out of the fender. In the rear, cut off the lower quarter panel just below the beltline [edit: similar to AZFJ's top pic] and fabricate a pan to fill the gap. Finish it, paint it, etc. Then swap the current springs for a set of 52in. Chevy leaves. That'll move the rear axle back roughly 3in. while still maintaining the same overall spring length as your XJ leaves. Adjust the bumpstops and you should be good to go.

[KCMONSTER]

Originally Posted by 1toughxj

Sounds like a good plan.

I thought so too

AZFJ - Who's beadlocks are you running? I dig the wheel centers.

[1toughxj]

I was taking a look at the front steering as I have a crossover setup with my HP D44 currently. If you push the front axle 4", what is done with the steering box, pitman and draglink. It seems everything would be brought out of alignment by moving the axle forward?

[ashmanjeepXJ]

Originally Posted by 1toughxj

I was taking a look at the front steering as I have a crossover setup with my HP D44 currently. If you push the front axle 4", what is done with the steering box, pitman and draglink. It seems everything would be brought out of alignment by moving the axle forward?

I ran 42s with the stock steering box location, and pittman arm.Tthe axle was moved forward but not enough to kill the steering box geometry. I used on high steer arm, I dont trust the stock knuckles with highsteer so I run over the knuckle tirerod not highsteer.

Id say get 39s or 42s, you have the axles for it, 38s are kinda small.
Move the rear back to get the larger tires out of the door.
Get a ram on the front so you can steer.

Where do you plan to wheel it?
The added wheel base and larger tires seams to do really good at florence and TM.

[74_Chevota]

Originally Posted by KCMONSTER

AZFJ - Who's beadlocks are you running? I dig the wheel centers.

Look like Allieds....I have the same ones.


Here is a pic of my brothers cherokee on 39.5 IROKs. 6" RE and custom long arms.

[1toughxj]

Typically run FJ. I'd be happy with 38's.

[KCMONSTER]

Originally Posted by 1toughxj

I was taking a look at the front steering as I have a crossover setup with my HP D44 currently. If you push the front axle 4", what is done with the steering box, pitman and draglink. It seems everything would be brought out of alignment by moving the axle forward?

Compairatively, yes. Functionally, no. Box and pitman arm remain unchanged, draglink is shifted forward at the axle end (obviously) but the geometry for the draglink remains within an acceptable range.

[1toughxj]

For the guys that have shifted their front axle forward, does a 3 link with a track bar make more sense? 2 lower control arms, with one upper arm on a truss over the diff?? It would seem beneficial to do without the upper on the pass side to make room for the track bar. I'm trying to visualize what would work best.

[grandcherokee663]

just shave the 14bolt for more clearance

[XJ_ranger]

Originally Posted by 1toughxj

For the guys that have shifted their front axle forward, does a 3 link with a track bar make more sense? 2 lower control arms, with one upper arm on a truss over the diff?? It would seem beneficial to do without the upper on the pass side to make room for the track bar. I'm trying to visualize what would work best.

3 link front is not a bad choice...

I know many people with a 3 link in the front of an xj on 35's,37's, 40's and 42's...

some have the arm on the drivers side and fought REAL hard to get around the drive shaft and atlas...

some (myself included) have the arm on the passenger side and worked around it on the axle end to accommodate the track bar...

it really is a matter of personal preference...

what 60 are you going to run in the front? other than the holy grail 1979 HP 60, I'm not sure that you'll have the real estate on the drivers side to mount a bridge and a lower control arm mount...

if you're ok with running 37's, just buy tires, bolt them on to your 33 spline rear, and 30/19 spline front, trim where it rubs, and run them... I know quite a few guys that ran all over JV on a 30/19 spline d44 with 37" creepys and only had hubs fail... BUT they spent the $$$ on CTM's and WARN shafts...

[HardcorewannabeXJ]

The three link w/panhard and single upper seems to be a popular choice, although I'm trying to lean away from it due to the inherent "weak link" with no real benefits other then the space and simplicity one.

I may be running that on mine but I'd really love to fit a triangulated 3 link to eliminate the track bar, plus I'm planning on going full hydro eventually so it seems to be an all around better choice.

BTW it's going to be a BallJoint D60 front with something fancy for getting around the drivers side perch where there is but .75" of axle tube to work with!!!

[1toughxj]

I have an 87 F-350 HP 60 that I was gonna narrow the longside down to get to 65" WMS to WMS. I'll have to measure the area on the driverside exposed tube. I wasn't so much worried about the lower control arm mounts, as I was trying to get a coil bucket in there. I was considering going with coilovers using Ballistic Fab brackets on the inner knuckles because of the space restraints.

My Super 44 has been sold already and I have the gearing and locker for my 14-bolt already, so I am pretty much committed to getting these 1-tons under it.

Originally Posted by XJ_ranger

3 link front is not a bad choice...

I know many people with a 3 link in the front of an xj on 35's,37's, 40's and 42's...

some have the arm on the drivers side and fought REAL hard to get around the drive shaft and atlas...

some (myself included) have the arm on the passenger side and worked around it on the axle end to accommodate the track bar...

it really is a matter of personal preference...

what 60 are you going to run in the front? other than the holy grail 1979 HP 60, I'm not sure that you'll have the real estate on the drivers side to mount a bridge and a lower control arm mount...

if you're ok with running 37's, just buy tires, bolt them on to your 33 spline rear, and 30/19 spline front, trim where it rubs, and run them... I know quite a few guys that ran all over JV on a 30/19 spline d44 with 37" creepys and only had hubs fail... BUT they spent the $$$ on CTM's and WARN shafts...

[XJMarty]

just to bring a old thread back from history ...

I need to clear 38,5x11 boggers and keep the cog low as possible (XJ), but I cannot move the axle forward due to class regulations. Trimming allowed. Will be running fullwidths (60/60) with 4,75" backspace wheels. Is it doable? I would like to keep it about 5" of lift or not? I was also considering swaping the XJ for a TJ due to larger wheel wells or moving to another class where it is allowed to change wheelbase. Whats your opinion on this?

[WA-HCRC]

Originally Posted by XJMarty

just to bring a old thread back from history ...

I need to clear 38,5x11 boggers and keep the cog low as possible (XJ), but I cannot move the axle forward due to class regulations. Trimming allowed. Will be running fullwidths (60/60) with 4,75" backspace wheels. Is it doable? I would like to keep it about 5" of lift or not? I was also considering swaping the XJ for a TJ due to larger wheel wells or moving to another class where it is allowed to change wheelbase. Whats your opinion on this?

terrible firewall issues at anything but nosebleed heights with no stretch. change classes and stretch the front out.

[TabooCustoms]

Im running about 4" of lift 4-5" of backspacing and 35s and I rub like crazy in the front and come pretty close to rubbing in the back. I need to cut about 1.5" more out of the front, then Im still gonna be hitting the inner wheel well where the air box used to sit. I put new tires on the rig last week then did a run this weekend and cut the crap out of one of them on the inner pinch seam, did a bit of a field fix with a hammer and took care of the seam.

38's 11 wide, gonna struggle with that, IMO.