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Old 07-17-2007, 04:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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doubler gearing

I'am putting together my cherokee with a 4.0, aw4, and a np231,dana 300 doubler. the axles I'am putting in have 4.10 gears. for tires i'am running 39.5 iroks.
my question is do i need to change my gear also. or is the gearing with the doubler going to be ok? if i swap out gears i'am going to get 5.38. what do you guys think?
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Old 07-17-2007, 04:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I think you will probably be wanting much better brakes or a different stall converter at that point. You probably won't be able to stop it by brakes alone in full low gear.
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Old 07-17-2007, 06:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vetteboy79 View Post
I think you will probably be wanting much better brakes or a different stall converter at that point. You probably won't be able to stop it by brakes alone in full low gear.
got "Neutral" ?
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Old 07-17-2007, 07:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i swap the rear to disk brakes but do you think i need to swap gears?
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Old 07-17-2007, 08:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I think you will probably be wanting much better brakes or a different stall converter at that point. You probably won't be able to stop it by brakes alone in full low gear.
I have no trouble stopping my junk with 1/2 ton disk/drum, an AW4, and 110:1.

Your axle ratio really depends on wheither you drive to the trail or not. Trail only; 4.10's will work, otherwise your 4.0L needs the 5.38's to climb hills.
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Old 07-17-2007, 08:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RockcontrolXJ View Post
I have no trouble stopping my junk with 1/2 ton disk/drum, an AW4, and 110:1.

Your axle ratio really depends on wheither you drive to the trail or not. Trail only; 4.10's will work, otherwise your 4.0L needs the 5.38's to climb hills.
I could idle over 2' boulders with my 120:1 gearing I used to have while walking next to my XJ. I could stop it, but it would load/extend the suspension causing about 2" of extra lift. Don't stop when you're flexed and tippy because it can cause a roll. Neutral is your friend.
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Old 07-17-2007, 09:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RockcontrolXJ View Post
I have no trouble stopping my junk with 1/2 ton disk/drum, an AW4, and 110:1.

Your axle ratio really depends on wheither you drive to the trail or not. Trail only; 4.10's will work, otherwise your 4.0L needs the 5.38's to climb hills.
4.10s are stronger but your more likely to break a d300 output shaft or drive shaft.

I run 5:13s (before 5.38 were available 14 bolt) more to help with my over all gearing but does help take some load off the drive shaft.

Id do the 5.38s eventually but maybe it would be wiser spent$$$ on other "trail" needed upgrades.
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Old 07-17-2007, 09:47 PM   #8 (permalink)
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4.10s are stronger but your more likely to break a d300 output shaft or drive shaft.
I've got the same setup.. 4.0L, AW4, 231/300, 60/14, with 38" sxs...

I wouldn't want it any slower, its crawls about anything in low/low and is almost useless anywhere but deep in the rocks..

300 rear output upgrade is a good idea, its the "new" weak link and prone to breaking.. I broke mine in 3 months..

E350 master cylinder and discs on the rear (using stock booster) and I have no problem holding it in low/low..
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Old 07-18-2007, 03:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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hey KEEPVIPER13 are you running 4.10 gears? I have the e350 mastercyclinder already with the disk brakes.
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