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Old 04-09-2008, 12:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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8.8 swap

I just purchased a 8.8 w/ disc brakes. I am wanting to put it under my 88 xj. I have read a million articles on swapping into a tj but am having a hard time finding an xj swap and what is needed. Some help would be great. Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i have done a bit of reaserch since iwant to do this swap on my 93 xj. Only thing i have realy found is that is is easy since you have rear leaves. just need to cut the old brakets off the 8.8 and weld on some new sping mounts. i belive the axle is about an inch smaller that the stocker so you can get buy with some spacers. as for the breaks just need to get rid of the limiter for the old drums.
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Old 04-09-2008, 05:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Cut off the stock spring perches off of the 8.8, buy a new set. Purchance a new set of gears and locker, U-bolts, a U-bolt plate (or cut up the stock one from the 8.8), tabs for your shocks. You will also need a new yoke to fit your stock rear driveshaft (sold here http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm). They also sell a complete install kit, but its cheaper to do it yourself. Install gears. Install new yoke. Unbolt your current axle, bolt up the 8.8 and set the pinion angle, then weld the spring purches in. Weld on the new shock tabs. reconnect the brake line. Bleed the breaks and wheel it till it breaks.
its narrower than the 35 by about 5/8", so you will need rims with differant backspacing or some wheel spacers. Or pony up for the Super 8.8 C-clip eliminator which will also add about 1 1/2" to the overall width.
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you are careful you can reuse your spring perches off of you old axle, otherwise you can find a new set just about anywhere. Shock mount are an easy one to reuse, just cut off of the old axle and weld onto the 8.8. You can use the yoke off of a Ranger 8.8 if you want to go the junkyard route. As for width, you can get by with stock rims. I ran 31x10.5x15's without any clearance issues on stock rims.

'97 XJ, D30, Ford 8.8, 35's
'94 Mazda B4000, D35 TTB, Ford 8.8, 35's
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If you use the advanced search and search for 8.8 in JUST the cherokee scection I think you will find some good info. I have been looking into this swap myself and I have an Excel program with some part numbers and such. Let me know if you would like it.
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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That should help. Relatively easy swap.
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Old 04-10-2008, 01:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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when i first built my 8.8 i reused the stock spring perches after cutting them off. i also built my own shock mounts in a near stock position, but those just got hammered.

second time around i built my own u bolt eliminator spring perches (like the ones from tnt), secured them to the leaves, then centered the axle under the hanging leaves by equally distancing the outside edge of the new perch (which is secured to the leaves already) to the flange on both sides. specific measurements aren't necessary since many different spring perches might be used. then i set jack stands under each end of the axle and let the weight of the vehicle down so that everything was at ride height. to set the pinion angle, the drive shaft was installed and a floor jack under the pinion output was used to rotate the housing for the desired angle... the spring perches were tacked in place, drive shaft taken off, xj frame supported, unbolted perches/axle from the springs, then the axle was taken out and thrown on the bench and welded up.
for the shock mounts, ones were made like the tnt mounts and both sides were welded onto the back of the housing as close to the spring perch as possible and a shock hoop extending between the frame rails mounted the tops near the center of the vehicle like you see on toys. (didn't cut into the floor but next time definitely will). with bilstein 5150's the angles still provide adequately in my opinion.
to connect the drive shaft to the flange i called Drive Train Direct 1-888-584-4372 and they had the piece in stock for a 1310 joint. got the metric bolts at a local hardware store for cheap and torqued them to 90 ft/lbs
for the brakes... got lazy. drilled and tapped a little block and welded it to the top of the axle tube to bolt the brake line from the body. the caliper soft line is just routed over the leaves and connects to new hard lines i bent. they just chill there not secured or anything ha and i'll have to remove the caliper to remove the spring ever. they don't interfere with bump stops since mine are extended off the spring plate. forget the e brake. it's a pain in the ass. tried running the stock ones with the little u deal but didn't have the patience to dial it in correctly so they work just ok. if you are willing to spend it, check out what m.o.r.e has to offer here. didn't do anything with the master cylinder either. the brake performance is superior to stock and haven't felt the need to play with that yet. the calipers are small enough that it doesn't negatively impact the system.

if you are completely tearing down the 8.8 and got the cash, throw on a super 88 kit as well. it is well worth it. with 8" of lift on my xj, the increase in stability and overall ride on the street was noticeable. there's my 2 cents.
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