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Old 04-08-2009, 07:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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XJ build Dana 60's H1 wheels and leaf conversion

Started disassembly today this is going to take a while but hopefully not to long

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Old 04-08-2009, 07:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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So why exactly do you want to go leaves up front?
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Old 04-08-2009, 07:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Simplicity mainly and to be different....Getting a full set of springs from Deaver springs and it's going to be sweeeeet
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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are you going to run full width 60's....im doin the same swap but with out the h1 wheels for now...hope you get it done quick, ill be watchin.
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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you going to keep the H1 wheels stock to suck your tires in more on the axles? its something i've thought of, allows the full width axles but keeps the width down enough to help possibly keep some of that jeep advantage on the trail.
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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excuse me for my ignoracne but ive heard alot on "re centering the h1 wheels, is that to bring tham in closer or out..you said stock to cut down on width so im little confused
thanks,
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hey Man,

Im workin on the same swap right now as well!

I originally planned on using that same wheel/tire set up, but a set of 38.5 got dealt in and now its a much bigger project!

Good luck with the build, theres a lot of helpfull people on here that will give you some insight when you need it.

I'll subscribe to watch your progress

-Adam
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:51 AM   #8 (permalink)
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excuse me for my ignoracne but ive heard alot on "re centering the h1 wheels, is that to bring tham in closer or out..you said stock to cut down on width so im little confused
thanks,
They have 7" backspacing..
Recentering 1. Gives less backspacing, 2. More outer dish = hubs don't stick out. 3. Change bolt pattern.
With wide ass full size axles, the stock H1 wheels keep your vehicle reasonably narrow. With full width axles & 10" wide wheel that only have 3.5 backspacing... Your Jeep would be ridiculously wide! Insane... Like 88" wide!
The H1s keep you at around 80". Don't quote me exact... U get the idea.
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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you going to keep the H1 wheels stock to suck your tires in more on the axles? its something i've thought of, allows the full width axles but keeps the width down enough to help possibly keep some of that jeep advantage on the trail.
Look close at his wheels... They have be recentered using press fit centers.

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Old 04-09-2009, 02:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Before you put the axles under your Jeep, you gotta rebuild them. They need brakes, bearings, seals, all that stuff. An axle swap isn't something that happens in a day or two.

You gotta fab an entire front drop-crossmember to hang the leafs from. You gotta drop that crossmember like 8" to get your leaf springs at the proper angle. Just building this new crossmember will take a week. Do you have all the bracketry? Also, you can move the axle forward by extending the new front crossmember forward.

One thing I've learned over the years.. Is You can't rush and build. If you do.. You're gonna make mistakes or slap together something your not proud of.

For a project of this extent.. I'd allow myself about 2 months. That's working on it about 20 hours a week. It costs $1500 to rebuild the front axle with new OEM replacement parts & you must do gears. The rear axle will cost you $800 or so.

Honestly... Coil Springs will be much easier! You've already got long arms!
Plus Coils perform WAY better.

This pic shows the right way to put Leafs up front. This is the Drop Front crossmember I speak of... All this stuff has gotta be done. If you were to hang leafs without a dropped platform, your pinion would be pointing down toward the ground. Why all the trouble when u have coils ready to roll?

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Old 04-09-2009, 02:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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A week to build that?Did you have to make all your brackets? I did mine in a weekend.It may not be pretty,but it aint going to tear off.I would strongly suggest plating the front of that unibody.Mine is sitting on a DRW60 from a 93 dodge.It measures out to 7ft sidewall to sidewall.
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Old 04-09-2009, 03:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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This pic shows the right way to put Leafs up front. This is the Drop Front crossmember I speak of... All this stuff has gotta be done. If you were to hang leafs without a dropped platform, your pinion would be pointing down toward the ground. Why all the trouble when u have coils ready to roll?

It you want a sky high truck that's how you do it. If you want a low COG there is a better way. It will lower the ride height and allow the tires to stuff further without putting the spring into a reverse arch.

Recess the rear spring eyes into the frame rail that has been built to mount the springs. Obviously the the frame should be plated too. By recessing the rear eyes the rear mounts they are located about 4" higher.

Doing this will eliminate the approach angle killing drop crossmember. This allow the shackles to be mounted 4" higher without changing the angle of the springs.

With proper fender work the same tires will fit and keep the ride height low and stable.

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Old 04-09-2009, 04:30 PM   #13 (permalink)
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OK first I am running 60's from a 78-79 Ford and I am leaving them full width Second I have already recentered the wheels. Third I appreciate everyones input but this is not my first time and I am rebuilding the axles after all of the fab work is done..... And as far as a dropped crossmember I am going with a different option thanks anyway. I am going to keep a low COG for stability. Fourth I am not regearing I am staying with 4.56 and installing a Crawlbox for reduction.
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Old 04-09-2009, 05:21 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I didn't even recognise those rims as H1 units, that outer lip is awesome looking.

I am with you on the crawl box, I went 4.56's on my AX-15 equipped rig so I can still go down the highway at 75mph w/o redlining the eingine. I've currently got the TeraLow 4:1 and once I get some other stuff done I'll be doing the NP231 doubler in front of that. Should work out pretty well, or so I hope.

Keep the pictures coming as you get more done, I'm very interested in watching this build.
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Old 04-09-2009, 06:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Yeah those are rim stiffeners from Copperhead Fab and I am going to use a mad rooster crawlbox in front of the t-case plus keeping the 4.56 gears for more pinion strength. I will post as often as I get something done. Later
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Old 04-10-2009, 09:32 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I appreciate everyones input but this is not my first time..... And as far as a dropped crossmember I am going with a different option thanks anyway. I am going to keep a low COG for stability.
I made my post about not using a drop crossmember not only to you, but for other people who read this post so they know there are better options then the way he said was the right way to do leaf springs.

I would concider the dropped crossmember set-up one of the worst ways to swap in leaf springs.

Since it seems like you don't want any input in your thread you can point out any other bullshit tech that gets posted in your thread and correct it yourself.
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Old 04-10-2009, 06:51 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I made my post about not using a drop crossmember not only to you, but for other people who read this post so they know there are better options then the way he said was the right way to do leaf springs.

I would concider the dropped crossmember set-up one of the worst ways to swap in leaf springs.

Since it seems like you don't want any input in your thread you can point out any other bullshit tech that gets posted in your thread and correct it yourself.
Hey Dude,
I appreciate your input I was not knocking what you said I was refering to the other post with all of the helpful info Sorry if I offended you.
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Old 04-10-2009, 09:50 PM   #18 (permalink)
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is this build in some sort of ex-carwash parking lot?
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:23 AM   #19 (permalink)
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It you want a sky high truck that's how you do it. If you want a low COG there is a better way. It will lower the ride height and allow the tires to stuff further without putting the spring into a reverse arch.

Recess the rear spring eyes into the frame rail that has been built to mount the springs. Obviously the the frame should be plated too. By recessing the rear eyes the rear mounts they are located about 4" higher.

Doing this will eliminate the approach angle killing drop crossmember. This allow the shackles to be mounted 4" higher without changing the angle of the springs.

With proper fender work the same tires will fit and keep the ride height low and stable.

.
Doing this will require a stupid-long travel driveshaft...

HTH!
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I think our friend GreatWhiteXJ is forgetting a zero in his pulled-from-rectume tolerance. That's the only way it could possibly make sense. If that's the case, a refresher of 4th grade math is in order.
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Old 04-11-2009, 03:12 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
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It you want a sky high truck that's how you do it. If you want a low COG there is a better way. It will lower the ride height and allow the tires to stuff further without putting the spring into a reverse arch.

Recess the rear spring eyes into the frame rail that has been built to mount the springs. Obviously the the frame should be plated too. By recessing the rear eyes the rear mounts they are located about 4" higher.

Doing this will eliminate the approach angle killing drop crossmember. This allow the shackles to be mounted 4" higher without changing the angle of the springs.

With proper fender work the same tires will fit and keep the ride height low and stable.
Doing this will require a stupid-long travel driveshaft...

HTH!
Why would it???? The rear mount is recessed into the frame and the shackle is still in the front, just not on a gay drop crossmember....

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Old 04-11-2009, 06:57 AM   #21 (permalink)
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is this build in some sort of ex-carwash parking lot?
No it's a Military Base
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Old 04-11-2009, 08:03 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Why would it???? The rear mount is recessed into the frame and the shackle is still in the front, just not on a gay drop crossmember....

oh - well then I couldnt even understand what you were trying to say.
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I think our friend GreatWhiteXJ is forgetting a zero in his pulled-from-rectume tolerance. That's the only way it could possibly make sense. If that's the case, a refresher of 4th grade math is in order.
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Old 04-11-2009, 08:27 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Simplicity mainly and to be different....Getting a full set of springs from Deaver springs and it's going to be sweeeeet
Simplicity?

Build what you want, it's your rig, but front leaf springs are going backwards. Nothing like going through a bunch of work to build a Conestoga wagon.

I hated the rubber bushings in my front end and did a 3 link with hard joints to eliminate the small amount of axle wrap. Axle wrap and poor approach angle with leaf springs just doesn't make sense, especially with all the fab you need to do, and all the great info that's out there about link front ends.

Oh, but you want to be different.

The only benefit of front leaves is breaking less axle parts, since it doesn't hook up as well you don't break as many parts.
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Old 04-11-2009, 06:22 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Yes you are correct it is my rig and I will build what I want
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Old 04-11-2009, 08:14 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Adding leafs is way more fab work than it's worth... Then you gotta deal with crap flex, axle wrap & terrible approach angle. The axle location won't be different, so the driveshaft won't be any longer? Moving the front axle forward is a good thing anyway.

I posted that photo showing a good, proper leaf build. You can put your own twist on the design to fit your set up, but regardless.. The point is You can't weld some leaf or shackle hangers to a Cherokee front crossmember.. It won't work. There needs to be a good bit of fab work done.
Yes, a fab project like that requires tons of planning, measuring, mocking up and it would definately take a week to finish it up.

That's a 2 month project... Shit, cleaning & rebuilding the 60 alone will take a week! That rig needs to be inside in a fully equpped garage. Nothing like underestimating the size of a project. I'll keep an eye on this build.
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