Tater2 Build Up - Page 7 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Jeep - Cherokee
Notices

Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-04-2010, 12:49 PM   #151 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Member # 122964
Location: Lake Havasu City
Posts: 223
thanks alot, this is one bad ass xj, prolly my new fav.
nextgenXJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2010, 08:24 AM   #152 (permalink)
Rock God
 
ONEtonXJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 145633
Location: Grand Junction, Crawlorado
Posts: 1,480
forgot to post this one..

__________________
Battlement Fabrication
"Tater2" - '91 2 door XJ. 4.0, AW4, 231/300 doubler, GM 60/70HD, 6.17s, ARB's & 4Ds
ONEtonXJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 11-16-2010, 02:52 PM   #153 (permalink)
Rock God
 
ONEtonXJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 145633
Location: Grand Junction, Crawlorado
Posts: 1,480
no updates till december..

but i've been thinking about how i'm gunna run my brake lines, i want to run hard lines down the UCA's with short flexible rubber or braided stainless lines at the rod ends.

anyone done this with any problems?
__________________
Battlement Fabrication
"Tater2" - '91 2 door XJ. 4.0, AW4, 231/300 doubler, GM 60/70HD, 6.17s, ARB's & 4Ds
ONEtonXJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 03:43 PM   #154 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
Amadeus3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Member # 138544
Location: Maine
Posts: 326
I've seen it on a couple builds here. Check out Fawk Awph's build in the yota section. I think he did that on his rear wishbone. And the Polar Bear build here in the cherokee section. He ran them down his radius arms on his zj I'm pretty sure.
Amadeus3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2010, 04:27 PM   #155 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
jeffhaut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Member # 148714
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 222
Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEtonXJ View Post
no updates till december..

but i've been thinking about how i'm gunna run my brake lines, i want to run hard lines down the UCA's with short flexible rubber or braided stainless lines at the rod ends.

anyone done this with any problems?
spidr in the wrangler section did it on his "bitch" build as well
looks real good
__________________
109" one tonn YJ
jeffhaut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 01:00 AM   #156 (permalink)
Karnage
 
spidr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Member # 55444
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 8,176
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffhaut View Post
spidr in the wrangler section did it on his "bitch" build as well
looks real good
Yup. Wouldn't have it any other way. 10 hoses total on the rig, and only 1 spare needed, and nothing to snag anywhere.
__________________
Sometimes you just gotta step back and take a breather.
spidr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 09:11 AM   #157 (permalink)
Rock God
 
ONEtonXJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 145633
Location: Grand Junction, Crawlorado
Posts: 1,480
Quote:
Originally Posted by spidr View Post
Yup. Wouldn't have it any other way. 10 hoses total on the rig, and only 1 spare needed, and nothing to snag anywhere.
i checked out your bitch build.. clean shit.. and im sold on the UCA brake lines.. i wanna do it in the front too though..
__________________
Battlement Fabrication
"Tater2" - '91 2 door XJ. 4.0, AW4, 231/300 doubler, GM 60/70HD, 6.17s, ARB's & 4Ds
ONEtonXJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 12:45 PM   #158 (permalink)
Karnage
 
spidr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Member # 55444
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 8,176
I did mine in the front too, but they had to go on the lower link. I'm in the midst of plumbing the ARBs with stainless, and the brethers, and they'll run up the opposite upper links.
__________________
Sometimes you just gotta step back and take a breather.
spidr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 02:52 PM   #159 (permalink)
Rock God
 
ONEtonXJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 145633
Location: Grand Junction, Crawlorado
Posts: 1,480
Quote:
Originally Posted by spidr View Post
I did mine in the front too, but they had to go on the lower link. I'm in the midst of plumbing the ARBs with stainless, and the brethers, and they'll run up the opposite upper links.
that'd be way easier, think they'll be safe?? i plan on running an ARB in the front too someday but was thinking i could compile both brake lines and the air line on the one upper control arm.... whata you think??
__________________
Battlement Fabrication
"Tater2" - '91 2 door XJ. 4.0, AW4, 231/300 doubler, GM 60/70HD, 6.17s, ARB's & 4Ds
ONEtonXJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 03:01 PM   #160 (permalink)
Rock God
 
ONEtonXJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 145633
Location: Grand Junction, Crawlorado
Posts: 1,480
Quote:
Originally Posted by spidr View Post
FROM HIS "BITCH" BUILD THREAD


did you only run one line from the master cylinder for the front?
__________________
Battlement Fabrication
"Tater2" - '91 2 door XJ. 4.0, AW4, 231/300 doubler, GM 60/70HD, 6.17s, ARB's & 4Ds
ONEtonXJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 03:39 PM   #161 (permalink)
Pigs Fly
 
vetteboy79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Member # 31621
Location: Morganville, NJ
Posts: 6,246
Send a message via AIM to vetteboy79
My front line runs down the upper link and splits on the axle. Is that something odd? Just moving the T-block elsewhere in the fluid path...

Fuck it, here's my 'budget brakes' post that I made a while ago. Copied n pasted:

Quote:
1) Split the rear lines at the rear crossmember and run them down the top of the lower links. Use a 1985 Plymouth Reliant K rear brake hose for the soft lines (8.25" of rubber hose, standard 3/8" flare at each end, less than $10 each). Use one per side from the crossmember to the links, hardline down the top of the links, and then a 1985 Chevy Chevette front brake hose from the hardline to the calipers ($15.95, 15" long). Nothing mounted to the axle, and the rear is done for less than $60 with easily serviceable parts that are common at any parts store in the country. Less if the rear lines you've got already will work this way.

(I forget if you're running cutting brakes or not, but running the plumbing this way makes them an easy addition if you don't have them already)

2) Use the same Reliant K hose from a hardline to the upper link in the front, small length of hardline on the link, a 1982 Dodge W250 center front brake hose from the hardline down to the axle ($20 and solves the flex line and axle T in one shot). Hardlines from the T out towards each caliper, then use the softlines of your choice (mine are from the same truck, $18 each). Again, readily-available parts and you're into the front axle for less than $80.

3) I bought one 25' foot coil to do my whole XJ, have re-done some lines since then, and still have a bunch left.

4) Going through RockAuto instead of Napa to do the layout as above, the Reliant K hoses are $5 each, the front center Dodge hose is $13, left and right caliper lines are $10. So that bumps the price down to ~$50 for the rear and ~$60 for the front.

I haven't had any problems with this arrangement in two and a half years, but it's nice to know that if I ever do have an issue, it's easily solved with standard auto store parts instead of some specialty fittings.
__________________
'94 XJ RIP, time to move on
New East Coast TTB racer in the works, trimmin' the fat...
Build Thread

Flying Pig Racing #512

Last edited by vetteboy79; 11-17-2010 at 03:39 PM.
vetteboy79 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 04:22 PM   #162 (permalink)
Rock God
 
ONEtonXJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 145633
Location: Grand Junction, Crawlorado
Posts: 1,480
thanks vett..

wouldn't happen to have a link to where you copied that from would ya?
__________________
Battlement Fabrication
"Tater2" - '91 2 door XJ. 4.0, AW4, 231/300 doubler, GM 60/70HD, 6.17s, ARB's & 4Ds
ONEtonXJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 04:27 PM   #163 (permalink)
Karnage
 
spidr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Member # 55444
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 8,176
Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEtonXJ View Post
that'd be way easier, think they'll be safe?? i plan on running an ARB in the front too someday but was thinking i could compile both brake lines and the air line on the one upper control arm.... whata you think??
As long as it's on top of the link, I'd say it would be fine. Personally I believe that a dangling hose is more susceptable to damage than mine are.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEtonXJ View Post
did you only run one line from the master cylinder for the front?
Yup. Ford and Dodge did it on there front diffs for many years. 1 hose off the crossmember in the middle to a T. And guys run a single line to their rear breaks when they do a disc brake swap, so how would it be any differant....IMO of course.
__________________
Sometimes you just gotta step back and take a breather.
spidr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 04:30 PM   #164 (permalink)
Registered User
 
WA-HCRC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 39184
Location: WA
Posts: 3,165
Blog Entries: 1
Keep your jamnuts tight
WA-HCRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 04:31 PM   #165 (permalink)
Pigs Fly
 
vetteboy79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Member # 31621
Location: Morganville, NJ
Posts: 6,246
Send a message via AIM to vetteboy79
Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEtonXJ View Post
thanks vett..

wouldn't happen to have a link to where you copied that from would ya?
I posted it originally in this build thread:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=956040

but I've mentioned that stuff a bunch of times all over. At this point I've got another year of racing and trail riding on everything and it's still all doing fine...so nearly 4 years.
__________________
'94 XJ RIP, time to move on
New East Coast TTB racer in the works, trimmin' the fat...
Build Thread

Flying Pig Racing #512
vetteboy79 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 04:35 PM   #166 (permalink)
Rock God
 
ONEtonXJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 145633
Location: Grand Junction, Crawlorado
Posts: 1,480
Quote:
Originally Posted by spidr View Post
Yup. Ford and Dodge did it on there front diffs for many years. 1 hose off the crossmember in the middle to a T. And guys run a single line to their rear breaks when they do a disc brake swap, so how would it be any differant....IMO of course.
right on man, thanks for all the help.. im gunna do the front how you did and the rear how vette did his cuz i plan on cutting brakes soon..

Quote:
Originally Posted by WA-HCRC View Post
Keep your jamnuts tight
lol yeah no shit..
__________________
Battlement Fabrication
"Tater2" - '91 2 door XJ. 4.0, AW4, 231/300 doubler, GM 60/70HD, 6.17s, ARB's & 4Ds

Last edited by ONEtonXJ; 11-17-2010 at 04:35 PM.
ONEtonXJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2010, 04:50 PM   #167 (permalink)
Karnage
 
spidr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Member # 55444
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 8,176
Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEtonXJ View Post
right on man, thanks for all the help.. im gunna do the front how you did and the rear how vette did his cuz i plan on cutting brakes soon..
..
I have those too. There's dual lines on my upper link, and I bolted in the handles last night.
__________________
Sometimes you just gotta step back and take a breather.
spidr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2010, 07:02 PM   #168 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 81189
Location: Steubenville, OH (near Wellsville)
Posts: 1,626
Sick build man.
__________________
'88 Jeep MJ 1-ton buggy
barillms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2010, 08:29 PM   #169 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
Amadeus3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Member # 138544
Location: Maine
Posts: 326
I'd say he welded nuts onto the backside of his stiffeners when he put them in. Thats what i did on mine and it worked out pretty well.
Amadeus3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2010, 09:25 PM   #170 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 144152
Location: Hesperia
Posts: 961
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amadeus3 View Post
I'd say he welded nuts onto the backside of his stiffeners when he put them in. Thats what i did on mine and it worked out pretty well.
been wondering that for a while now after looking at xjcrawler736s thread for a while, i guess im not very creative


sweet xj nate

this makes me wanna shit can my leafs even sooner so i can join the "cool kids" with their coils
sandaddik2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2010, 12:09 PM   #171 (permalink)
Rock God
 
ONEtonXJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 145633
Location: Grand Junction, Crawlorado
Posts: 1,480
hotrod434 is right...

you can kind of see it here..

the crossmember is 1/2" which bolts through another piece of 1/2" that is welded to the frame plating.. through the unibody.. and into another piece of drilled and tapped 1/2" that i dropped inside of the unirails through these holes pictured below...


so basically..... it is sandwiched between A LOT of shit, with A LOT of bolts..

EDIT: and i did the same thing for the rear crossmember.. i used the holes in the floor i cut for the front crossmember.. and also, i kept the piece that i cut out of the floor so they can be welded back in later..
__________________
Battlement Fabrication
"Tater2" - '91 2 door XJ. 4.0, AW4, 231/300 doubler, GM 60/70HD, 6.17s, ARB's & 4Ds

Last edited by ONEtonXJ; 11-20-2010 at 12:13 PM.
ONEtonXJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2010, 03:11 PM   #172 (permalink)
Rock God
 
ONEtonXJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 145633
Location: Grand Junction, Crawlorado
Posts: 1,480
that, and that drilled and tapped piece is like? 14" long where the crossmember is only 10".. so it spreads the load way more than just nuts would..
__________________
Battlement Fabrication
"Tater2" - '91 2 door XJ. 4.0, AW4, 231/300 doubler, GM 60/70HD, 6.17s, ARB's & 4Ds
ONEtonXJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2010, 03:35 PM   #173 (permalink)
J20
i really dont care..
 
J20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Member # 84186
Location: Cloverdale BC........
Posts: 143
Send a message via MSN to J20
Rad build dude ................wish my xj was this bad ass...........
__________________
WWW.CRAWLINBC.COM
VE7ZZP
J20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2010, 09:34 AM   #174 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Member # 144152
Location: Hesperia
Posts: 961
sounds like a smart idea to me.
i saw someone on another build weld some bungs into the frame rails to hold bolts but that didnt seem like itd last too long. and with my luck theyd break off and fall inside the frame rail and roll around like a fucking marble and irritate me
sandaddik2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2010, 11:36 AM   #175 (permalink)
Rock God
 
ONEtonXJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member # 145633
Location: Grand Junction, Crawlorado
Posts: 1,480
that.. and think about surface area the load is being spread over... with nuts, it isn't much.. with a tapped flat bar you can spread the load WAY WAY WAY more.. which is pretty important considering the structure of an XJ is 18g..
__________________
Battlement Fabrication
"Tater2" - '91 2 door XJ. 4.0, AW4, 231/300 doubler, GM 60/70HD, 6.17s, ARB's & 4Ds
ONEtonXJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.