Tater2 Build Up

[nextgenXJ]

thanks alot, this is one bad ass xj, prolly my new fav.

[ONEtonXJ]

forgot to post this one..

[ONEtonXJ]

no updates till december..

but i've been thinking about how i'm gunna run my brake lines, i want to run hard lines down the UCA's with short flexible rubber or braided stainless lines at the rod ends.

anyone done this with any problems?

[Amadeus3]

I've seen it on a couple builds here. Check out Fawk Awph's build in the yota section. I think he did that on his rear wishbone. And the Polar Bear build here in the cherokee section. He ran them down his radius arms on his zj I'm pretty sure.

[jeffhaut]

Originally Posted by ONEtonXJ

no updates till december..

but i've been thinking about how i'm gunna run my brake lines, i want to run hard lines down the UCA's with short flexible rubber or braided stainless lines at the rod ends.

anyone done this with any problems?

spidr in the wrangler section did it on his "bitch" build as well
looks real good

[spidr]

Originally Posted by jeffhaut

spidr in the wrangler section did it on his "bitch" build as well
looks real good

Yup. Wouldn't have it any other way. 10 hoses total on the rig, and only 1 spare needed, and nothing to snag anywhere.

[ONEtonXJ]

Originally Posted by spidr

Yup. Wouldn't have it any other way. 10 hoses total on the rig, and only 1 spare needed, and nothing to snag anywhere.

i checked out your bitch build.. clean shit.. and im sold on the UCA brake lines.. i wanna do it in the front too though..

[spidr]

I did mine in the front too, but they had to go on the lower link. I'm in the midst of plumbing the ARBs with stainless, and the brethers, and they'll run up the opposite upper links.

[ONEtonXJ]

Originally Posted by spidr

I did mine in the front too, but they had to go on the lower link. I'm in the midst of plumbing the ARBs with stainless, and the brethers, and they'll run up the opposite upper links.

that'd be way easier, think they'll be safe?? i plan on running an ARB in the front too someday but was thinking i could compile both brake lines and the air line on the one upper control arm.... whata you think??

[ONEtonXJ]

Originally Posted by spidr

FROM HIS "BITCH" BUILD THREAD

did you only run one line from the master cylinder for the front?

[vetteboy79]

My front line runs down the upper link and splits on the axle. Is that something odd? Just moving the T-block elsewhere in the fluid path...

Fuck it, here's my 'budget brakes' post that I made a while ago. Copied n pasted:

1) Split the rear lines at the rear crossmember and run them down the top of the lower links. Use a 1985 Plymouth Reliant K rear brake hose for the soft lines (8.25" of rubber hose, standard 3/8" flare at each end, less than $10 each). Use one per side from the crossmember to the links, hardline down the top of the links, and then a 1985 Chevy Chevette front brake hose from the hardline to the calipers ($15.95, 15" long). Nothing mounted to the axle, and the rear is done for less than $60 with easily serviceable parts that are common at any parts store in the country. Less if the rear lines you've got already will work this way.

(I forget if you're running cutting brakes or not, but running the plumbing this way makes them an easy addition if you don't have them already)

2) Use the same Reliant K hose from a hardline to the upper link in the front, small length of hardline on the link, a 1982 Dodge W250 center front brake hose from the hardline down to the axle ($20 and solves the flex line and axle T in one shot). Hardlines from the T out towards each caliper, then use the softlines of your choice (mine are from the same truck, $18 each). Again, readily-available parts and you're into the front axle for less than $80.

3) I bought one 25' foot coil to do my whole XJ, have re-done some lines since then, and still have a bunch left.

4) Going through RockAuto instead of Napa to do the layout as above, the Reliant K hoses are $5 each, the front center Dodge hose is $13, left and right caliper lines are $10. So that bumps the price down to ~$50 for the rear and ~$60 for the front.

I haven't had any problems with this arrangement in two and a half years, but it's nice to know that if I ever do have an issue, it's easily solved with standard auto store parts instead of some specialty fittings.

[ONEtonXJ]

thanks vett..

wouldn't happen to have a link to where you copied that from would ya?

[spidr]

Originally Posted by ONEtonXJ

that'd be way easier, think they'll be safe?? i plan on running an ARB in the front too someday but was thinking i could compile both brake lines and the air line on the one upper control arm.... whata you think??

As long as it's on top of the link, I'd say it would be fine. Personally I believe that a dangling hose is more susceptable to damage than mine are.

Originally Posted by ONEtonXJ

did you only run one line from the master cylinder for the front?

Yup. Ford and Dodge did it on there front diffs for many years. 1 hose off the crossmember in the middle to a T. And guys run a single line to their rear breaks when they do a disc brake swap, so how would it be any differant....IMO of course.

[WA-HCRC]

Keep your jamnuts tight

[vetteboy79]

Originally Posted by ONEtonXJ

thanks vett..

wouldn't happen to have a link to where you copied that from would ya?

I posted it originally in this build thread:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=956040

but I've mentioned that stuff a bunch of times all over. At this point I've got another year of racing and trail riding on everything and it's still all doing fine...so nearly 4 years.

[ONEtonXJ]

Originally Posted by spidr

Yup. Ford and Dodge did it on there front diffs for many years. 1 hose off the crossmember in the middle to a T. And guys run a single line to their rear breaks when they do a disc brake swap, so how would it be any differant....IMO of course.

right on man, thanks for all the help.. im gunna do the front how you did and the rear how vette did his cuz i plan on cutting brakes soon..

Originally Posted by WA-HCRC

Keep your jamnuts tight

lol yeah no shit..

[spidr]

Originally Posted by ONEtonXJ

right on man, thanks for all the help.. im gunna do the front how you did and the rear how vette did his cuz i plan on cutting brakes soon..
..

I have those too. There's dual lines on my upper link, and I bolted in the handles last night.

[barillms]

Sick build man.

[Amadeus3]

I'd say he welded nuts onto the backside of his stiffeners when he put them in. Thats what i did on mine and it worked out pretty well.

[sandaddik2]

Originally Posted by Amadeus3

I'd say he welded nuts onto the backside of his stiffeners when he put them in. Thats what i did on mine and it worked out pretty well.

been wondering that for a while now after looking at xjcrawler736s thread for a while, i guess im not very creative


sweet xj nate

this makes me wanna shit can my leafs even sooner so i can join the "cool kids" with their coils

[ONEtonXJ]

hotrod434 is right...

you can kind of see it here..

the crossmember is 1/2" which bolts through another piece of 1/2" that is welded to the frame plating.. through the unibody.. and into another piece of drilled and tapped 1/2" that i dropped inside of the unirails through these holes pictured below...


so basically..... it is sandwiched between A LOT of shit, with A LOT of bolts..

EDIT: and i did the same thing for the rear crossmember.. i used the holes in the floor i cut for the front crossmember.. and also, i kept the piece that i cut out of the floor so they can be welded back in later..

[ONEtonXJ]

that, and that drilled and tapped piece is like? 14" long where the crossmember is only 10".. so it spreads the load way more than just nuts would..

[J20]

Rad build dude ................wish my xj was this bad ass...........

[sandaddik2]

sounds like a smart idea to me.
i saw someone on another build weld some bungs into the frame rails to hold bolts but that didnt seem like itd last too long. and with my luck theyd break off and fall inside the frame rail and roll around like a fucking marble and irritate me

[ONEtonXJ]

that.. and think about surface area the load is being spread over... with nuts, it isn't much.. with a tapped flat bar you can spread the load WAY WAY WAY more.. which is pretty important considering the structure of an XJ is 18g..