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Old 09-25-2011, 08:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Clutch as cutting brake?

I'm still searching but has anybody turned their clutch pedal and stock clutch master cylinder into a cutting brake? I'm swaping an AW4 into my YJ and thought that it would be a cool way to take advantage of the extra pedal.
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Answered my own question, the clutch master only has a line out, not a line in. Duh.

I would like to mount the cutting brake master to the clutch pedal though, I think that would be pretty usefull.
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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No constructive input other than holy shit that would confuse anyone stealing your truck
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Answered my own question, the clutch master only has a line out, not a line in. Duh.

I would like to mount the cutting brake master to the clutch pedal though, I think that would be pretty usefull.
Why would it need a line in?

Providing your clutch master cylinder has enough volume to actuate the calipers (which I doubt) it would work. Rig up the right sized caliper on the T-case output and the clutch master should work like a champ.
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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And be able to control only one side?
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Why would it need a line in?

Providing your clutch master cylinder has enough volume to actuate the calipers (which I doubt) it would work. Rig up the right sized caliper on the T-case output and the clutch master should work like a champ.
That wouldn't give him a cutting brake.
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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It would lock both rears for a front dig. No way he's going to be able to control an individual wheel with only the one pedal.
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yes, I would be locking up both rears. As it stands now I've been able to do front digs with the 3 foot shuffle and powering through my front brakes, so I see no problem having both rears actuated by the cutting brakes. The fact that I'll only need 2 feet on 2 pedals to do it (1 on the clutch turn cuttting brake and one on the throttle) instead of the current 2 feet on 3 pedals will in itself be a lot nicer.

Cutting brakes are in-line with the normal brake lines, thats why the clutch master won't work. There is no where to hook in the feed from the brake master.
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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That's why Kwranglin alluded to a "parking brake" setup on the tcase output... it's own caliper/ciruit completely seperate from your braking system... interesting idea really...
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Old 09-26-2011, 02:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Really not a bad idea at all. I.e. on my yj, I used a manual valve as a parking brake that locked the rears, no issues with that. Someone here posted a simple setup using the stock e-brake cable foot (YJ\CJ) actuated or hand (on a TJ), that was pretty clean, basically you could use the hand brake as a cutting brake in that case (press brakes, push e-brake pedal or hand brake to hold pressure), release brake pedal, and rears are locked.

The same concept will apply just need t figure out a way to utilize the pedal. In my opinion I would not use the clutch master as the cylinder connected to your main brake line as the clutch MC's are prone to failure, what could leave you ultimately with no brakes.

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Old 09-26-2011, 03:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Having both lock up is just a manual line lock or just rear brakes, not cutting brakes. You'll need two masters to have cutting brakes.
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:52 AM   #12 (permalink)
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What I've done in the past is run two Wilwood pedals with a single master on each, one for front and one for rear. Place 'em close together (basically touching sides) so that you have to really think about it to step JUST the rear...
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Really not a bad idea at all. I.e. on my yj, I used a manual valve as a parking brake that locked the rears, no issues with that. Someone here posted a simple setup using the stock e-brake cable foot (YJ\CJ) actuated or hand (on a TJ), that was pretty clean, basically you could use the hand brake as a cutting brake in that case (press brakes, push e-brake pedal or hand brake to hold pressure), release brake pedal, and rears are locked.

The same concept will apply just need t figure out a way to utilize the pedal. In my opinion I would not use the clutch master as the cylinder connected to your main brake line as the clutch MC's are prone to failure, what could leave you ultimately with no brakes.
Sandrail guys use a pair of hand lever cable actuated cutting brakes.One does each rear wheel.Simple and effective.
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:56 PM   #14 (permalink)
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My original thought was to use the clutch master, but after looking at it I doub't it would hold up at all. What it looks like I'll be doing is figuring a way to mount the master from the cutting brakes in a manner that allows them to be actuated by the clutch pedal instead of with a hand lever.

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What I've done in the past is run two Wilwood pedals with a single master on each, one for front and one for rear. Place 'em close together (basically touching sides) so that you have to really think about it to step JUST the rear...
I was thinking of this too, just wasn't sure how well those worked not having any form of booster. I saw them do it on Extreme 4x4 with one of the buggies they built and thought it a cool idea. Not sure if they did it but I figured it would be easiest to just weld a bar to the front brake pedal so that when you ppushed on it then rear brake pedal would also be depressed. You would still be able to hit the rear brake pedal only for doing a dig.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:16 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Not sure if they did it but I figured it would be easiest to just weld a bar to the front brake pedal so that when you ppushed on it then rear brake pedal would also be depressed. You would still be able to hit the rear brake pedal only for doing a dig.
Stop by a tractor store and look at the brake pedals. Notice the little flip bar that locks both brake pedals together. Flip it over to lock em for street driving, then flip it to unlock the pedals when on the trail. Done deal.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:34 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Stop by a tractor store and look at the brake pedals. Notice the little flip bar that locks both brake pedals together. Flip it over to lock em for street driving, then flip it to unlock the pedals when on the trail. Done deal.
For a streetable rig this would be the way to go, I don't even bother with streetable most times anymore.

Also, the Wilwood pedals are designed to run with no booster, so master bore, pedal ratio, etc is all sized appropriately. No problems as far as breaking power.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:46 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Stop by a tractor store and look at the brake pedals. Notice the little flip bar that locks both brake pedals together. Flip it over to lock em for street driving, then flip it to unlock the pedals when on the trail. Done deal.
I was more thinking of doing so that it would be easy on the trail to just hit the one pedal for all brakes. I was thinking of in as if I were keeping my stock clutch (now rear brakes) brake (now front brakes) and gas (yep, still throttle) pedals. Just hit the normal brake pedal and all the brakes work, hit what used to be the clutch pedal and only the rears lock up.

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For a streetable rig this would be the way to go, I don't even bother with streetable most times anymore.

Also, the Wilwood pedals are designed to run with no booster, so master bore, pedal ratio, etc is all sized appropriately. No problems as far as breaking power.


I figured as much. I'll look into that as well, It'd be nice to make some room under the hood by ditching the booster and my massive Lincoln master cylinder.
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