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Old 10-30-2011, 12:07 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I can honestly say I hate putting this much time into an axle I know I will eventually replace but it's serving it's purpose right now and that's all that really matters. No new frills on this axle, it just needs to be strong and work until I build bigger.



I finally broke down and drilled then tapped the bellhousing. I have a plan for this and if the runout and alignment is good I'll run it. If I find a cheap t176/t150 bellhousing I'll buy it for a spare but I'm going to try to make this one work. Tapped to 7/16-24 IIRC




It lines up good, I was as precise as possible


I finally ordered my cross member mount kit from Ruff Stuff and I'm glad I did - it's BEEF and he had the lowest shipping costs and even a discount. I will be ordering from Dan in the future. I also traded an old street scoop for a pair of 7/8" chromo Ruff Stuff heims.


I cut some frame plates from 1/4" plate and tacked in



And took pics of the mounting dimension for the CPS since I'll have to retrofit it to the cj bellhousing in case anyone needs them. Also note the distance from that bolt on the bellhousing which is in the same place on the t series bellhousings. It's about 1.25" away.

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Old 10-30-2011, 03:43 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I'm liking your fab work so far!
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Old 10-31-2011, 03:33 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Thanks necromancer I should have this thread up to date soon with more fab and some decent progress.
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Old 10-31-2011, 04:12 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Thanks necromancer I should have this thread up to date soon with more fab and some decent progress.
I like seeing what other people do with their rigs, it's always informative IMO I'm at the same point as you maybe...*EDIT* **** I'm no where near close to the same point as you!!!*** do I build what I already have to be the best it can be, or do I just skip to the next step so I don't have to spend my money twice.?..

I'll keep an eye on your build to see what you end up going with and how it turns out for you, I hope it all goes well! :thumbsup:

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Old 10-31-2011, 07:01 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I can honestly say I hate putting this much time into an axle I know I will eventually replace but it's serving it's purpose right now and that's all that really matters. No new frills on this axle, it just needs to be strong and work until I build bigger.
I hear ya on that, i put chromos and good joints and 2 ring and pinions in my 30 to keep it going while i gathered parts for the ton swap. At least I still got to wheel for the 2 years it took to be ready for the swap
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:32 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I like seeing what other people do with their rigs, it's always informative IMO I'm at the same point as you maybe...*EDIT* **** I'm a few steps behind you*** do I build what I already have to be the best it can be, or do I just skip to the next step so I don't have to spend my money twice.?..

I'll keep an eye on your build to see what you end up going with and how it turns out for you, I hope it all goes well! :thumbsup:
Thanks man, hopefully this build can help others doing a similar build.

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I hear ya on that, i put chromos and good joints and 2 ring and pinions in my 30 to keep it going while i gathered parts for the ton swap. At least I still got to wheel for the 2 years it took to be ready for the swap
That's my plan too I'm doing it slightly different but with the same outcome.
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:37 PM   #32 (permalink)
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A lot of time was spent measuring and calculating different crossmember setups, link placement, link length, axle and frame separation, etc etc. Hopefully tomorrow I will have the crossmember cut and in place. In the morning I'll be going down to the steel supplier to find some c channel or box for the frame link mounts and upper control arm mounts. I still need to find the dom sleeve braces for the frame but that can wait.

I don't have a spool gun attachment for welding aluminum yet so I did the next best thing and filled the other bolt pattern on the bellhousing with set screws


Then I started mockup of where I want the drivetrain to sit. As you can see, it's much different than the ax15 and much taller too.






However, I was able to get it mostly flat. I will need a 1" motor mount lift, which I ordered from Poly Performance. It's the Rustys unit but should be fine.
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:39 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Here it is tucked in the frame rails


And squeezed tight in the center of the tub


Obviously the shifter will have to be bent at an angle but I have a linkage setup in mind for down the road


If you were the dana 300 front output shaft, this is what you'd see. Also why I need a 1" MML


The d300 won't need to be clocked as of right now. Hopefully this will be all it needs.


One last shot from the other side. Airbag module will need to be relocated.


I marked the approximate locations of where my brackets will be based on how much stretch I want and where they would be if I were not stretching the wheelbase.

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Old 11-01-2011, 02:25 PM   #34 (permalink)
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im liking the somewhat unique drive train youre using

one question, why didnt you wash your rig before you start this huge project? are you one of those people that love dirt falling your eyes?
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Old 11-01-2011, 05:41 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I gave the rig a bath in the power washer...what you see remaining is the stickiest mud I could find and drive through repeatedly.
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Old 11-01-2011, 06:03 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Looks good Trevin.
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Old 11-01-2011, 06:10 PM   #37 (permalink)
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im liking the somewhat unique drive train youre using

one question, why didnt you wash your rig before you start this huge project? are you one of those people that love dirt falling your eyes?
His rig is clean compared to most I've had to work on!
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Old 11-01-2011, 06:14 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Looks good Trevin.
Thanks Shawn!

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His rig is clean compared to most I've had to work on!
After today, I'm not so sure. My fuel skid was ridiculous.
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Old 11-01-2011, 11:35 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I gave the rig a bath in the power washer...what you see remaining is the stickiest mud I could find and drive through repeatedly.
sounds like its that rimrock red clay

worst stuff to clean off ever
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Old 11-02-2011, 05:49 PM   #40 (permalink)
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This stuff is all Elbe swamp muck. Nasty.
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:16 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Trevin,

Looks good so far. If you get lost at all with the D300, let me know. I've got a copy of the original Dana Spicer rebuild instructions. Also, I keep original Spicer balljoints on the shelf if you still need them.

Anyway, I saw the picture of your transmission shifter and this one came to mind as a really cool solution......it's also an NP435, but in a Toyota...
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Old 11-02-2011, 10:54 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Trevin,

Looks good so far. If you get lost at all with the D300, let me know. I've got a copy of the original Dana Spicer rebuild instructions. Also, I keep original Spicer balljoints on the shelf if you still need them.

Anyway, I saw the picture of your transmission shifter and this one came to mind as a really cool solution......it's also an NP435, but in a Toyota...
Oh I could use that Dana 300 manual if you get a chance to send it When these balljoints go out I'll be calling you. If all goes to plan I'll know how long my uppers should be and I can finally order them from you

That shifter is much simpler than the one I was planning, thanks for posting that! I was at a welding supply store the other day that had tiny little heims, perfect for this application.
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Old 11-02-2011, 11:01 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Got the CPS cutout marked


and cut



Welded the inside of the LCA mounts on the hp30. I wanted the extra strength there. I might plate them too, we'll see. My welds are getting better:

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Old 11-02-2011, 11:04 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Pulled the 8.8


Then I released any pressure in the fuel system and started pulling the tank




But I broke this little Y...need to get another one. Anyone know the part number?
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Old 11-03-2011, 06:31 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Wow that is a lot of work, great job and kudos to you for tackling all of that..
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Old 11-03-2011, 07:07 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Killer pics on the NP435 rebuild - did you find any part of it difficult? Mine is in need of some love and I was wondering if there was anything difficult about it?
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Old 11-03-2011, 09:39 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Wow that is a lot of work, great job and kudos to you for tackling all of that..
Thanks, one day at a time.

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Killer pics on the NP435 rebuild - did you find any part of it difficult? Mine is in need of some love and I was wondering if there was anything difficult about it?
It's not very difficult, just use the rebuild guides. A press makes it a lot easier but it can be done without one. The main shaft and bearing is the only "difficult" part.
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Old 11-03-2011, 09:48 AM   #48 (permalink)
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I opened my door Tuesday to find this on my doorstep. UPS guy didn't even ring my doorbell.




I had to download the instructions so I didn't get it hooked up that day. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have it up and running. Wish I would have known my plasma cutter was upstairs on my porch since I was doing nothing but cutting all morning.


Then I took the tank out of the skid and scraped all the gunk off of it. Wow.


Made some cuts to clear the pumpkin. 8.8 cover is only about 3" deep so there was no point in making it more than 4" clearance. I don't like the condition of this skid, I may not use it.
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Old 11-03-2011, 10:26 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Coming along nicely! That 'tee' you broke, it's just the tank venting, so any 'Y' style vacuum tee with the right hose sizes will work ....
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:14 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Thanks zukkev! I'll pickup a t fitting at napa sometime.
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