Project Re-Re-Build CJ7

[NorthWestFab]

Here the start of my Skid Plate. The way everything lays out in the jeep i am going to have to mount my lower links off of the skid plate. I know I know this is less than ideal for mounting but i would rather have proper link geometry than a flat belly.

We drew up this beast in Cad had it cnc plasma cut then formed to what you see here. It is 3/8" Thick and with the multiple bends makes it very stiff.



Tomorrow i will be welding a 3/16" plate to the bottom of the frame with 1/2" coupler nuts welded to that plate, then sunk into the frame.

I am also hoping to get the links started tomorrow as well!

Kris

[NorthWestFab]

After 2 solid days of work the rear links are 90% complete. everything is tacked in place with mock links in. Geometry didnt turn out to bad. 39" Lowers, 32 1/8" Uppers 84% anti squat and -3% under steer.

Heres how its looking so far.





I will be running 2" x .250" DOM Lowers and 1 3/4 x .120" DOM Uppers.

[NorthWestFab]

I got the Tie Rod in with barely enough room to clear the frame and full bump, i wasnt able to run crossover or hi-steer so Inverted T will have to do. I am Running Our Heavy Duty Tie Rod 1.5" x .375" DOM and Chevy 1 Ton TRE's.





Over the last few weekends i also got my front links in place but forgot to take a picture so will get some today or tomorrow.

However I got a awesome package yesterday! Thanks to PSC For hooking me up with a New Steering Gear with Reverse Gearing, 1.75x8" Stroke Ram, New Power Steering Pump and Over Flow Bottle with Filter set up for hydro boost and ram assist!



This weekend i will be getting the steering gear mounted so i can determine how long my drag link / Pan Hard Bar will be and maybe get those in place as well.

[adamusmc2002]

Can I ask what the holes in the truss are for? And not the 4 bolt holes, the large hole in middle of bolt pattern, and the two seen in the 2nd picture of post #27. Just curious, i have a very similar truss/yoke guard, from ballistic.

[NorthWestFab]

Originally Posted by adamusmc2002

Can I ask what the holes in the truss are for? And not the 4 bolt holes, the large hole in middle of bolt pattern, and the two seen in the 2nd picture of post #27. Just curious, i have a very similar truss/yoke guard, from ballistic.

The Large hole in between the 4 bolts holes im not sure what its for i think its just show/reduce weight.

The 2 holes on the side of the truss i put in. It allows access to my vent and my Air Locker fitting.

Kris

[ALshooter]

Subscribed.

Great looking build so far. I'm starting an '84 CJ-7 so this will be good to follow.

[ISF RACING TEAM]

Very nice Great build Want more pictures please

[NorthWestFab]

Here are the pictures of the 3 link moucked in place.





I will be building my Final Links tomorrow using these NEW Hex Head Bungs!



Tomorrow we will be mounting my steering box and hopefully my panhard bar.

Kris

[Niedhogg]

Subscribed... nice build!

[NorthWestFab]

Its been a while since an update so here we go!

I got tired of trying to work around the stock front crossmember so we cut it out and replaced it with some 2x3 box tube and built a mount out to the grill.



This Gave me enough room to build my steering box mount and get my steering box bolted in.



As you can see in the picture i made an adapter block to go from the o-ring fittings in the box to pipe thread. I then have pipe thread to AN- fittings which will alow me to go to my AN- style power steering lines. I have about 1/8" clearance from the adapter block to the rad.

I have been having troubles finding enough space to get my ram to fit. I am running such a large tie rod i can barely clear it past the diff cover so getting a clamp to clear was out of the question. Next best thing? Running one of our full hydro steering arms!



This past weekend was the first time we got the jeep out of the shop to test some flex and check for binding. My upper links were hitting the truss so we cut a large chunk out and not nothing comes close to binding!



And a Photo just for the hell of it!



I have marked the rear of the frame and tub for the strut towers and looks like they will be mounted vertical and i might be able to keep my rear seat (Keeping my fingers corssed) I ordered a custom set of towers for the front from TMR Customs. They are a rear strut tower that are about 8" longer than the ones they produce this will get my struts up to my hood allowing me to mount high on the axle over the c's. pictures of that after the weekend.

Kris

[Valley Rock]

Sweet CJ . Just got a tripple stick set up from you guys for a flipped 300/black box .

Seriously high quality stuff, very very nice .

[NorthWestFab]

Originally Posted by Valley Rock Crushers

Sweet CJ . Just got a tripple stick set up from you guys for a flipped 300/black box .

Seriously high quality stuff, very very nice .

Thanks!

[jeep09]

Hows the build going Kris?

[NorthWestFab]

Originally Posted by jeep09

Hows the build going Kris?

I will do an update a bit later, this past weekend we got the rear struts in and i managed to save the rear seat My axle strut mounts are a little to long so this weekend i will shorten them to drop my full bump height.

Stay Tuned!

[WildHorses]

Great looking project!

[NorthWestFab]

Since its been a while since the last update heres a major one!

It started with mounting the rear struts. I used TMR Customs Rear TJ Strut Towers Cut a section out of the frame and out of the tub. I went straight up and down with the struts and as little into the tub as possible as i wanted to try to keep the rear seat. It was sucessful! I am able to install the rear seat but not flip it forward and i still have plenty of clearance to my tires.




And heres how the inside looks


With the Rear Done we moved our focus to the front:

[NorthWestFab]

The Front Strut Tower had to be placed as far forward as we could to the becuase of the front stretch, it worked out that the struts would be straight up and down again! Here are the towers welded into the frame and the begining of bracing.



There was no possible way to get a straight panhard into the jeep so a couple bends was in order to clear the upper link mount and the pumpkin. The Panhard bracket mounts off the of strut tower and at full bump it just barely clears the axle housing. It doesnt touch and thats all that matters to me!

Heres a good shot of the panhard. At full bump it sits between the block and Crank Pully! its 1.25" tube in a 1.5" space.



We tied the strut towers together using 1 3/4 x .120 DOM and a couple of our Tube Clamps.



The Body, engine, trans, and tcase have been removed and this is how it sits now.



With everything apart we will be plating the entire frame and finish welding all the link mounts.

Thats all for now!

[jeep09]

Looks good

[NorthWestFab]

Started on the frame plating yesterday we got from the front crossmember to the engine mounts done.



Cut Outs for the Panhard and the Hydro Assit Ram to clear.



Slight Modification to the strut tower to allow clearance for the steering shaft.

The Inside of the frame is 3/16 and the top is 1/8, lots more to come!

[Gravy]

nice. that panhard snakes right between the crank pulley and the block

[jeep09]

Tell me more about the plating Kris, picts and can you describe the overall plan and process

[barillms]

This Jeep is gonna be SO much more capable with this new suspension & wheelbase.

[NorthWestFab]

Originally Posted by barillms

This Jeep is gonna be SO much more capable with this new suspension & wheelbase.

Thanks! Thats what i am hoping for, anything is better than how it used to run, drive, flex.

[jeep09]

Good work, you are an inspiration

[NorthWestFab]

Originally Posted by jeep09

Good work, you are an inspiration

Your Jeep was the Inspiration behind this!