Welding end-housing on a D44, setup? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 08-14-2001, 05:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Post Welding end-housing on a D44, setup?

Help, I have picked up a D44 reverse cut that a guy had in his wrangler, without having to explain the whole story it needs need end-housings. I am getting the Large Bearing Fords from Currie. The question is has anyone welded them on yourselves? or should I take it to a shop?. If you have welded them on yourselves please explain how to properly set them up for preweld?. I have a mig and weld, would rather do it myself because I can.

If you know of a "Good" shop I live in the Manteca area of Northern California.

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Old 08-14-2001, 07:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You will need a jig so that they are weled in strieght and inline. So take it to a shop but to answer the other question a mig welder works best.
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Old 08-15-2001, 04:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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is it a good story?


Does anyone sell a cheap jig for the do it yourselfers?
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Old 08-15-2001, 04:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm sure you could easily make a jig for it.
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Old 08-15-2001, 05:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by BlueYJ:
[QB]Help, I have picked up a D44 reverse cut that a guy had in his wrangler, without having to explain the whole story it needs need end-housings. I am getting the Large Bearing Fords from Currie. The question is has anyone welded them on yourselves? or should I take it to a shop?. If you have welded them on yourselves please explain how to properly set them up for preweld?. I have a mig and weld, would rather do it myself because I can.

You need pucks, quick run down ignore if you already know this.
You need 4 pucks you will need a lathe or have a machine shop make them for you. What you do is make the I.D. on all of them just a few thousandths bigger than say a 1" piece of DOM tube (MAKE SURE YOUR TUBE IS STRAIGHT!!!) Next make two of the pucks with the O.D. of the carrier bearings place these in the housing and tighten them down with the caps. Turn down the other two pucks with an O.D. of the bearings the go in the ends (slightly smaller so they slip in and out without too much trouble). So now slide the DOM tube all the way through the axle then slide on the new ends butt them up and weld away. When you weld make sure to grind the end of the axle tube and the new outer ends with a bevel so you can really lay a bead in there. Make multi passes grind any high spots between beads before making the next pass. TIG is best if your mig I'd really want a 220 machine for the best penetration. If your 110 I hear that flux core works better for this sort of thing.
I bet there are other ways of doing this I have seen all my buds doing axes like this so far so good last one was a D60 for a TJ.
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Old 08-15-2001, 05:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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GDGMOJO thanks for the info.

Some day I plan on attempting to narrow a FF d60 myself so I'm kinda lookin into how its done
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Old 08-15-2001, 09:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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GDGMOJO and all thanks for the info. As much as I like making things myself I think I will have this done by a pro. I can imagine the puck thing but probably need to draw myslef a picture get the new ends and most likely figure it out.

This was the problem with this axle in the first place. Whoever put the current ends on didnt do a good job. It kept eating bearings and leaking like crazy. I love to get the mig out when ever I can though, but sometimes you got to figure out your limitations.

If anyone else has other experiences with this I am sure we would all like to hear. Thanks.

Thanks

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Old 08-16-2001, 12:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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With a lathe and 1.5" bar you can narrow any axle. I made my own jig for FF60's, 14Bolts and 70 spindles. If you can make a jig then putting them together is easy so maybe spend the $$$ on setting yourself up now. One other thing to add is that you will need a real welder not some 150amp deal. It can be done with that but it will take 3 passes of weld.

[ 08-16-2001: Message edited by: 66CJdean ]
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Old 08-16-2001, 02:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Hi 66CJDEAN,

I am also assuming that you are talking about using the 1.5" to go down the center of the tube?, Can you explain in some detail how you have done this. I would love to learn how. My biggest concern is getting the new end caps square to the housing? do you have any pictures of your jig? Or do any of you have a picture of a jig?

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Old 08-16-2001, 02:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Look up Chris Alston chassis works and look at their jig. It comes with lots of different parts to put together 12 bolts, 44's, 9's, 60's and what have you. My jig uses the same round ones that go in at the carrier bearing caps but the outters thread onto the spindle of a 14bolt, newer 60, and 70's that way you only need the spindle so there isn't to much weight to bend the bar. You will never get one perfect due to the pulling of the weld and where you stop welding but it will be better than they did at the factory. I don't have any pictures though.
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Old 08-16-2001, 04:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I went to there web site but didnt see the jig, any other suggestions?

Thanks,

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Old 08-16-2001, 04:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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http://emporium.markwilliams.com/pro...=40&np=40&fp=9
Try this. This from Mark Williams and not cheep but it gives you an idea. Some of the times the jigs that go in the carrier bearing caps are two sizes so the same jig can be used for a 44 or a 60 or whatever and the end jigs are the same way ie large or small bearing ford ends and such. On their FF end jig mine looks much like it with threads on one end to thread on the spindle. Hope this helps more this time.
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Old 08-16-2001, 05:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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that link didnt work but still got there and found it. That site has allot of good stuff. Thanks <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">
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Old 08-16-2001, 06:06 PM   #14 (permalink)
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if you dicide to go to a shop OFFROAD INTERPRISE in stockton on cherryland. they do that stuff at a good prize
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Old 08-16-2001, 09:04 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks I have called them allready. $175 to put the ends on. Currie is $90.00 but then I would have shipping to and from there.

Offroad Ent, also has one bad ass pulling truck in there.ecei0D
Thanks all
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Old 08-16-2001, 09:30 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I will do it for $250. I will make the jig's you will need and give them to you - the bar you will have to buy your own as far as that goes but it will give you the 2 inner jigs and 2 outter jigs + I will weld it together. We will use my bar that day but you will need to get one for doing rearends after that.
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Old 08-17-2001, 08:03 AM   #17 (permalink)
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How much just for the Jigs?
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Old 08-17-2001, 03:49 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by BlueYJ:
<STRONG>How much just for the Jigs?
<IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
$125 I will provide the matieral.
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Old 08-17-2001, 03:56 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Dean,

Does that include the rod?

Thanks
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Old 08-17-2001, 04:53 PM   #20 (permalink)
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No. Sorry but you will have to get one on your own.
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Old 08-17-2001, 06:03 PM   #21 (permalink)
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$125?? I think I may take you up on that...You think aluminum rod would work Ok? I know where i can get some nice straight pieces, 1.25" X 10'
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Old 08-17-2001, 06:26 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Aluminum flex's too much and 1.25 is too small so if you used it I would get 1.75.
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Old 08-17-2001, 07:08 PM   #23 (permalink)
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hmm, ill see what else i can get. I dont wanna go bigger than 1.5"
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Old 08-20-2001, 09:04 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Ya Dean,

I will most likely take you up on that. I have a few other things I need to take care of and will let you know. Probably in a couple of weeks.

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Old 08-20-2001, 03:07 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Send me a PM when you are ready.
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