![]() |
![]() |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Rock God
Join Date: Sep 2000
Member # 1757
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 1,144
|
I'm trying to get this thing up a little higher to fit 35's under it, but I don't want to have it down for too long so here's what I'm doing:
(BTW - it's got D44's front and rear so the pre-fab SOA kits for the stock axles won't work - I've checked) It's already got a 4" Pro-Comp lift on it so I'm going to put a shackle reversal kit on the front for another 1-1/2" (4" + 1-1/2" = 5-1/2") of lift. Then I'm putting new springs and a SOA on the rear for 5-1/2" lift in back. Next spring I'll do the SOA on the front when I've got more time to work out the steering linkage and welding the spring pads to the housing. [ 08-15-2001: Message edited by: withamc ]
__________________
Usually lost... Eat your spaghetti
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
|
Your best bet is probably to either add a 1" body lift (no more than 1") if your body's mounts are in good shape, if they're not, then don't go with a body lift. Or you can trim up the fenders to make the 35s fit...BUT I've heard (not finished my own SOA yet, so can't vouch for this personally) that with 5.5" of lift, you'll be good to run 35s, but you'll probably see rubbing at full stuff, that's where the trimming or minimal body lift helps out. Probably should let someone who's done this mod confirm this.
__________________
"The Nazis had pieces of Flare they made the Jews wear." CJ-7 Under Construction |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links |
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Jun 2000
Member # 1108
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 4,201
|
Do a search on SOA and you'll find more frigg'n info on this subject than you can read in a day
__________________
Those who forge their swords into plows will plow for those who do not. |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
|
Simple. You have 44 front right? Steering over. Whats to think about? Weld some perches, set the springs on it, extend your brake lones, and steering over. Done <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
__________________
[CENTER][SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.strong-arms.com"]Strong Arms "Survival Slings" For Sale PM me for a PBB only price[/URL] [/SIZE][/CENTER] |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Member # 2705
Location: Hammonds Plains, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 711
|
I did this exact thing, although in a slightly different order and time period. I originally had 4 inch lift springs, did SR and relocated the rear shackle mount to get another 2 inches of lift. That fit 35s. Decided I wanted to go SOA. Did SOA in the rear (relocated shackles back to stock position), I have close to the same lift front and rear if that answers your question.
I am almost finished the front SOA now, getting the steering linkages just right can be a pain, you might be doing the right thing by taking it in 2 steps if you can't afford to be down. Just keep in mind that with a front shackle reverse you will need to move the axle forward (to keep the tire out of the body), and you will need longer travel front drive shaft (to keep it from pulling apart) if you are going to wheel it hard at all. For those two reasons, you might want to reconsider the shackel reversal if the only reason you are doing it is for the couple of inches. It might be easier to just live with longer shackles or something for a while. |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) |
|
Rock God
Join Date: Sep 2000
Member # 1757
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 1,144
|
The sawzall would solve my 35" tire problem, but the local "authorities" would have a real problem with all that tire hanging out. I've already gotten 3 tickets with the stock flares. I've had the 6" flares on and the rocks keep ripping them off.
__________________
Usually lost... Eat your spaghetti
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 (permalink) | |
|
Registered User
|
Quote:
__________________
[CENTER][SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.strong-arms.com"]Strong Arms "Survival Slings" For Sale PM me for a PBB only price[/URL] [/SIZE][/CENTER] |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 (permalink) |
|
Rock God
Join Date: Sep 2000
Member # 1757
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 1,144
|
Nope - I have 4" springs now. I'll keep the 4" springs on the front with a shackle reversal, replace the rear springs with a 5-1/2" SOA. Do a SOA on the front later. Having the thing down for too long is my problem. My club is putting on a Halloween run so I need it back together before then. And I don't want to miss the New Year's run to Truckhaven (Anza Borrego area). I'll do the SOA in front when I swap the 5.0 in next year.
__________________
Usually lost... Eat your spaghetti
|
|
|
|
|
|
#12 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
|
If you collect all the parts first, a f/r SOA is only a weekend project (thats including <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> time)
__________________
[CENTER][SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.strong-arms.com"]Strong Arms "Survival Slings" For Sale PM me for a PBB only price[/URL] [/SIZE][/CENTER] |
|
|
|
|
|
#13 (permalink) |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Member # 3175
Location: goldsboro, NC
Posts: 76
|
I just completed my SOA. I had 4"Procomps and a 2" body lift and my 35SX's were trying to tear my fenders apart. I agree with the previous post that if you get all the parts before you start it's only a 2-3 day job. I used a set of factory springs and added an extra main to the five leaf(rear) and 2 leafs to the four(front). I got about 6.5" of lift out of that. With the SOA and my 2" body lift I let the bumpstops down so the tire just touches the fender flare at full compression. It's like a whole new jeep, the flex is incredible. Hope this helps. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
__________________
95 YJ, 39.5" IROKS ,4" SOA. |
|
|
|
|
|
#14 (permalink) | |
|
Registered User
|
Quote:
__________________
"The Nazis had pieces of Flare they made the Jews wear." CJ-7 Under Construction |
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|