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Old 05-08-2012, 08:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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HP30 w/ Chromo's????

Have a quick question about an axle that might take in trade....

Is a HP30 w/ Chromo's running 35s or 37's really that good or something to say nah and pass on it???
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:55 AM   #2 (permalink)
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it is a polished turd...pass on it and search as the topic of "Dana 30 with Cromo shafts" has been beaten to death over the years.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The best day I ever had of owning a jeep was the day I replaced my 4 banger.

The second best day of owning a jeep for me was the day I ditched the Dana 30.

Depending upon what you trade for would determine whether it is a good deal. You can wheel a Dana 30 on 35s or 37s but you will get used to replacing parts. When you upgrade to chromo's you start taking out ring and pinions.

Then you bounce once and press the knuckle off on a waterfall and everyone points and laughs.

HP30 on 37s.



Happened here:



The 30 may be alright for a DD on 35s. I would look for something else if you plan to toss it in the rocks.
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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OK, thanks that's kindof what was going thru my head
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:33 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Then you bounce once and press the knuckle off on a waterfall and everyone points and laughs.

HP30 on 37s.


Ha ha, fckin awesome! I know they won't get me home, but thats why I bought the lifetime warranty bj's for my wifes YJ on 35's. They're supposed to be "No questions asked. Never had one refused."

We'll see...
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I don't think a lifetime warranty ball joint will straighten out the top part of the C

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Old 05-08-2012, 02:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'd pass. This is what happened with Yukon chromos on 35s with a LP30 yes I know a HP is stronger but still too close for comfort for me.
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Two cents of my perspective.

Jim Allen in "Jeep 4x4 Performance Handbook" says hp dana 30s will survive 35" tires with some common sense.

I know of couple of wheelers that do pretty well with 35" tires and a dana 30. One wheels trails like......... "Behind the Rocks" out in Moab, the other wheeler competes recreationally in the stock class on a dana 30 with 35 tires and does fairly well, both are locked. Sure they have had some failures, but not every year.

I had a low pinion CJ7 dana 30 with Detroits, I broke........ 6+ 260x U joints in a 6 week period along with 3-4 axle shafts. I never did knock a ball joint off the knuckle, although I think it would have sucked while coming back down Moab Rim. LOL

With a switch to chromo axles, 760x U joints, no problems in the last year and a half. I did some mild core stuff up around Shaver Lakes last summer, as well several trips out to Kansas Rocks. I intend to wheel the Rubicon this next year on a hp dana 30, detroit and 35" tires.

IMO stay within the design parameters of the axle (33-35" tire) and common sense, it will be fairly reliable. Start repeatedly shock loading a dana 30 that is locked and parts are gonna fly.

With all that said, its just not cost effective to build a dana 30 IMO. I made a passenger drop hp Dana30 with CJ7 knuckles, with the idea that I could reuse the chromo axle shafts, knuckles and hubs. I really "thought" I was gonna save a buck with a gifted housing, when it was all said and done (I built it brand new) I was in about 50-60% of the cost of a Dynatrak trail series HP JK D44 with a locker and RCVs, D60 thick knuckles.

Thats my two cents.

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Old 05-08-2012, 05:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I don't think a lifetime warranty ball joint will straighten out the top part of the C

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That's why god invented the BFH...
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Cool

D30 in hard core

Buy a real axle, and save your self a huge headache. A D30 is a waste of money no matter what you do to it.
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:02 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snwchris View Post
Have a quick question about an axle that might take in trade....

Is a HP30 w/ Chromo's running 35s or 37's really that good or something to say nah and pass on it???
I have seen so many break on 33's and 35's... I will always say pass.
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:20 AM   #13 (permalink)
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depends how you wheel and what you wheel. Also know that a caged out TJ is fawking heavy..5K plus.
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:51 AM   #14 (permalink)
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My HP30 did ok for about a year. I wheeled it very hard, locked on 35s. It's in a cut up/lightweight XJ.

I broke 6 or 7 stock shafts (with 760x joints), ruined (1) carrier, broke 2 ball joints, countless steering parts, countless unit bearings, and recently bent the housing.

As others said, if you run 33-35" tires, and wheel sensibly, they're not bad. If you beat on it, it will break. You get good at pulling shafts, replacing unit bearings and ball joints.

I would recommend trussing/gusseting it first thing. I've had great luck with the factory installed 4.10 gear sets, 4.56 or deeper seem to break more frequently. My aussie has held in there through all of it.
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
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i'm running an hp30 with chromo's, lockrite and 35's and no issues. I have a yj with the 2.5L so not much torque like the 4.0's have. Maybe thats why mine has lasted a while. I wheel it every weekend here in AZ and do 3.5 - 4.0 trails with it. I also have 4.88's in it and the carrier hasn't exploded yet.
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