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Old 12-06-2012, 01:16 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Sold my beadlocks and 37" Goodyear MTR's and bought a set of 40" MTR's. Waiting on the rims until I figure out how much to narrow the front end.
Thanks for all the advice so far. I will be reading more of others builds and taking advice as I go.

Old wheels and tires :



New Tires :


Last edited by esniper; 12-06-2012 at 01:17 AM.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:22 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I got my new crazy ass spacers. I bought some 5 on 4.5 to 8 on 6.5 adapters for the narrowed up rear Dana 60. This helps me out by adapting but also adding 4 inches total. So rear WMS should be about the same as the front if I narrow it by 4 inches.
I am running 40" tires so this should be interesting!
- NO need to post telling me this is going to break. I will run them till they do and then move on to something that wont. Thanks for the concern.



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Old 12-06-2012, 05:16 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Your not the first to put a fullwidth Jeep onto a small trailer and you wont be the last, Just drive over your fenders.

Stay fullwidth, are you trying to say that the trails you run if your fullwidth you really wont make it threw? I'm in the north east, wheel some very tight cart trails and I make it threw and yes that was even before I had rear steer.

You sound kinda new to building and fabbing, and its a more work to make newer Ford axles work with a TJ coils and a narrower axle.
It get buisy up front fast, I know your looking at it and scracthing your head and saying it doesn't look to bad now.
Wate till you get the coils in and start mocking up coils and a upper truss, thats when the extra room on the axle will help.

To me stay fullwidth, thats one less thing to bog down your build.

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Old 12-06-2012, 06:00 AM   #29 (permalink)
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X 2 Jason.....I run your trails full width non stretched and now stretched. I love the stability..Been running my full width for 10 years now.
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:05 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I know I am not the first to put full width on a trailer, I have wheel'd 2 Blazers, 2 full size trucks, a couple of Samurai's and now this is my 3rd TJ. Been at it since I got out of the Army in '96. It is a new trailer and if I did go full width I would weld on supports so I don't crush the wheel wells. Worst case I leave the front full width and simply put the TJ on the trailer backwards. The rear is already narrowed. TJ will probably look funny but not too concerned about looks. I mean have you seen my TJ. It doesn't have a straight panel on her.

I am relatively new to fab work, but have been messing with my previous rigs, reverse shackles, multiple fix's needing a little plate welded here and there. The rear end on my TJ was the most fabbed up work I have done. Truss, coil mounts, shock mounts and control arms. I modified a Fuel Cell to fit the stock pump and created my own mount points for it as well. I learned a great deal and feel like tackling the front. Gotta start somewhere!

As for spring room I think I am only going to narrow the passenger side. A guy here close to town says he does it all the time and it works out great. I believe him because this is an '85 D60 HP and the pumpkin is closer to the frame rail centered than a 78/79. So if I narrow up the passenger side it should bring the pumpkin pretty close to where I want it for the driveline and avoid the exhaust.

Now I have to think about steering. I think I want to avoid the hassles and go full hydraulic. I don't drive it on the road so if I do ever lose steering I could put it on the trailer and head home. I know it can get expensive, but my neighbor says he has a hook up.

I think time will tell. Once I really start mocking it up and getting some measurements I will see what happens. Right now the rear is narrowed so that is really pushing me toward narrowing the front. My concern is if the rear does go bye bye and I have narrowed the front, I really don't want to buy a new full float and narrow it. I almost want to search for a full float and throw it back there and sell the narrowed 60. Time is not on my side either. I am renting now and want to buy a house in August '13 so I have to have this thing at least rolling if not operational by then.

Thanks for the input.



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Old 12-11-2012, 10:00 PM   #31 (permalink)
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By the way, I think this fuel cell was the RCI 2161A. As you see it here it survived 2 rolls already. I did put a breather underneath for rolls. I did the KORE ring and cut out a whole as close to the center as I could. The inner ring could have been cut once and rotated through the fuel cell but I wanted to weld the bolts on the ring from the inside. I cut the inner ring in 2 pieces after I welded the bolts on. It worked out slick. For anyone wanting to stretch the rear of a TJ, this is a better way to go IMO.
I did have a problem with my first KORE fuel cell ring however. Take a look at this picture and you will see what I mean. Kore was cool and sent me a new one after I showed them the weld didn't penetrate all the way, which was easy to see by comparing the heat signatures. This caused the ring to pop up when tightened.


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Old 12-12-2012, 02:52 PM   #32 (permalink)
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im just north of you in the Seattle area. i thought about going full width down the road, but in the end, i think it will be too wide for some of the trails around here. I think keeping it narrow and stetching it will be the hot ticket... good build..
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Old 12-28-2012, 12:51 PM   #33 (permalink)
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That sucks. I feel your pain though. My wife has been sick for 9 years, not working the last 6. $$ has been very tight.

Just remember, whatever medical expenses you have paid out of pocket, without reimbursement, is a tax right off. Prescriptions, co pays, any bill you paid in the mail, anything, including mileage to and from doctors visits. Good luck.

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Old 01-11-2013, 07:12 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Before I actually narrow the front, I wanted to see what full width looked like. I finally found some cheap 17" wheels with the wrong offset, but for $200 I am not going to stress about it. I don't think it looks all that bad. I am switching my mind once again and leaving the front full width. The rear has adapters that bring the WMS to 65". The front is at 69.25" so only 2.125" off per side. I can live with that. I set the front axle about 5" forward and with this offset I am going to be close at full turn, especially at full bump. This is going to be fun, NOT!
Here are a few pics of the latest progress.








When I finish the front I plan on moving the rear back about 8" and doing the comp cut with the plasma or sawsall. Plasma is more fun though.

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Old 01-11-2013, 07:26 PM   #35 (permalink)
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The height is too tall for my taste. The front will be setup about 3" lower than the rear so I plan on doing the frame notch like I have seen a few guys on Pirate do. Not the side notch for the shock tower but the lower L notch for the coil spring. I plan on moving the 12" resevoir Fox shocks I have in the front to the rear and doing ORI's for the front for now. I am also planning on hydro assist or even full hydro since I dont' drive it on the street. That is why for now I went cheap on the rims and tires. I traded a full float rear D60 and $500 for the 40" Goodyear MTR Spiders and found some 17" American Racing Aluminum rims for $200. Offset is 4.5 inches but I will make it work for now. Les Schwab charged me $138 to unmount/mount my 40's with balance. Lame!
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Old 01-12-2013, 11:03 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:03 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Narrowed tons are gay on jeeps. I wouldn't run narrowed unless it was a comp rig.
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Old 01-12-2013, 11:41 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Got the axle tore down. Looks like I need new U-Joints, which I was going to do anyway. I need new kingpin bushing. I am going to go with the brass upgrade. I shaved off the old passenger side spring perch and cleaned up the housing.
Once I get the knuckles off its time to play, "lets find the angle!".
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Old 01-12-2013, 11:52 PM   #39 (permalink)
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???? Does anyone know if leaning coil springs, not coil overs, would work without issues?
I want to leave the antirock sway bar in front where it is. To do this I think I will have to have upper spring bucket welded at an angle to go down toward my 5 or 6" axle stretch. I don't see why it wouldn't work. Anyone know why it wouldn't?
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:05 AM   #40 (permalink)
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it's more of a deal for the coil springs if they get a huge banana bend when the axle is articulated causing the spring to catch on the bump stop, it sucks... trust me, bent a front coil spring out....

You will have a non linear load on the spring the more the angle is. Just mock it up well and make sure the spring work out with the full movement of the axle.
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:51 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Thanks Kenny. When I get to that point I will see how it works mocked. I suspect I will probably have to pony up the dough for some ORI's like I have been thinking about.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:54 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Waiting on media blasters
Took everything to get sand blasted!
Spoiling myself!
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:36 AM   #43 (permalink)
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I would cut 2.12 off the long side and run a 78-79 ford 60 shaft will keep stock length shafts and match the rear better down the road you could still go to a 70's ford 60 rear. I think it is a good comprise.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:35 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I don't drive it on the street.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:15 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Since I am still waiting on my Fawk'n axle to get back from the sandblasters I worked on my trailer. Notice the deck sealant. It is lifetime stuff from Home Depot and is normally used for house decks. It makes it look like Trek Decking. Anyway I welded up a spare tire mount under the trailer and put a Craigslist tool box on the front. I made my own spare tire lowering system by welding two bars for the tire to rest and drilling a hole through the side of my brand new trailer. The crank is from a local trailer dealer. -> last picture shows the cranking bar sticking out of the side of the trailer.






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Old 01-22-2013, 02:25 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Had to spend an extra $800 on my damn Toy Hauler. Freaking thing started leaking. Looks like I will be set back a paycheck or two. I am going to put off purchasing gears/lockers anyway so mock up only when I get my housing back.
For you Quad guys here is my setup. Yah Yah I know, this is hardcore Jeep section. It isn't hurting anything posting a few off topic pictures in here. Hell I have seen all kinds of $hyt in here so why should I be any different.


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Old 01-23-2013, 10:42 AM   #47 (permalink)
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For reference, I narrowed my 60 front to 64.5" WMS and running H2's with 37's. I did this primarily to keep my rig street legal in PA without having to run big ugly flares (personal preference). I would not consider narrowing and running coils, with high steer, and a stabilizer, etc... It's too much and too little room. It could be done if you run coil overs or 4-link the front.... Check out my build thread in my sig.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:30 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Wishing my TJ would just magically finish itself.
watched a few of my videos from last year.
Links here


Canopener TSF Oregon - Flop Drivers Side
TJ_flop - YouTube

Flop Passenger
TJ Flop 2 - YouTube


Stupid little rock garden
TJ Rock Garden TSF - YouTube
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:27 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Finally got my $h1T back from the media blaster. Yeah, I went ahead and spoiled myself.
For the west side Portland Oregon guys I went to BAB Blasters to get the D60 nuked.
My coworker, neighbor and 4x4 buddy is going to make some of the brackets and fabbed up parts I need.
Check out his company Deathgrip Offroad on Facebook. -> http://www.facebook.com/DeathgripOffroad






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Old 02-03-2013, 05:26 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Keep chuggin man, you'll get there. I know how you feel. My rig would be done right now, or being finished up. But an old dental repair that needed an upgrade put a stop to that plan. 3500 cash out of pocket is almost payed off. THEN i can assemble my junk. Setback about 6mo = SUCKs
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