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Old 10-09-2012, 04:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
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TJ - Full width or stock width axles

I finally picked up a complete hub to hub Dana 60 HP Kingpin for the front, which is full width. 4:10's

What I currently have installed on the TJ;
narrowed 61" Dana 60 rear with spool 4:56
Dutchman axles with 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern
TR beadlocks x 4
Goodyear 37" tires. 37x12.50r15lt - yes old puncture resistant

I am kind of at the crossroads.
Should I narrow the front and convert over to 5 lug?
Should I sell the rear end, rims and tires and buy a full width rear D60?
I need to do lower gears anyway and I hear I would have to go to 5 on 5.5 to make the conversion work. Plus when I go bigger than 37" 5 lug would be weaker.
Another option is to keep the 8 lug and narrow the front. Then simply convert the rear over to 8 lug and sell just the rims and tires.

I live in Oregon and the trails around hear have filters so full size rigs are sort of prevented from going on some trails. I can always drive over the filters, but some trails up here have narrow tree passages.

Why can't I make up my F'n mind!

Any advice, direction, experience, and or general BS will most likely help.

My site with pictures and videos of my TJ and buddies on the trails. http://www.wheeln.com

Old $hi77y Dana 30








Thanks

Jarrod

Last edited by esniper; 01-22-2013 at 01:45 AM.
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Old 10-09-2012, 05:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The D60 I picked up


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Old 10-09-2012, 07:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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What type of wheelin do you do? add another 3" minimum to either side and would you still make it the places you have gone?
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I run front wider than rear (60 full and 14 bolt C+C), and worked really well, even better turning radius, etc. You can always add a spacer on the rear to balance things out as an option.

Back to the second poster really depends on the trails you do, some trails in CA are narrow and will not work for a full size or full width setup (i.e. Barret). Also full widths on the road are not too fun for the popo
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The wheeln I do is mainly steep mountain trails in Tillamook State Forest. They usually are littered with bolders, which is why I want to go bigger than 37" tires. I was thinking at least 40"+.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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im full width, more mechanical leverage. and I also have crazy offset wheels. Narrowing some axles down the road wouldn't be the end of the world, so its not like you cant change your mind at a later date
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I wheel tsf in my upcoming build I'm running a c&c 14 bolt and front 60 narrowed around 65". All with 5" backspaced wheels. My buddy is full width and runs up there and some trails he can't go on and other places it's just a pain in the ass.
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Old 10-10-2012, 04:38 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I just went through the same exercise on my rig. I ended up narrowing the 60 and staying narrow. I like being narrow on the trails, but I think it just depends on preference. Sounds like there are places you go now that you could not go full width, so that would be a deciding factor for me.
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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If you're thinking 40"+ tires, that rear semi-float 60 isn't going to hold up... sell it and buy a 14B, keep both front & rear full width and 8-lug, and buy wheels with a lot of backspacing. It probably won't be too much wider than your current setup...
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I think 8 lugs just plain look better, like you sed they're stronger, and like somebody else sed, you can always narrow them in the future.
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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A 35 spline semi float 60 will hold up fine. 5 or 6 lug will hold up fine; just upgrade to bigger studs if you are concerned.

And, seriously, just narrow it later?! If you are saying that you have obviously never narrowed a front axle, bought, and built supporting components to do so. I just did one and probably have 60 hours in the shop putting it all together. Take 10 hours out for machine work on 6 lug and brake conversion and you are still alot of time. Plus, you get to buy new axles or pay to have existing axles done. I dont guess this is as big an issue on stock axles, but with most everyone going chromo it is a big cost savings. You also get to buy all new brackets and refab all of your suspension brackets since once you start cutting everything changes.
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:04 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Full width and Hummer H1 double beadlocks(7" back spacing on a 8.25" rim). Done.

Front might need a spacer(1.25") to clear high steer arms.
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:57 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I got the kingpin out and in the garage. It measures 79" across and 69.25 WMS. Holy shit that is long.
My trailer is 7ft wide. With the right offset I may fit it on the trailer maybe. Anyway I am picking up a full width full float rear 60 this sat. and selling the semi float already narrowed. I am going full width as of now. Like you guys said, I can always narrow it up. My neighbor has a plasma table and can just remake any brackets I need so what the hell.

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Old 10-12-2012, 11:29 AM   #14 (permalink)
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If you decide to stay narrow and at 5x4.5 I have five brand new 15x8 wheels with that pattern and 3" of bs that are set up for large lugs that I'd sell cheap.
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Being that your in the NW like myself, I would say narrow it. Trails are heading in the direction of width restrictions. Most guys I run with in the NW build around 64"-65" WMS-WMS with a 4.25-4.5" BS wheel. This setup works great.

I would concider a stretch if anything, helps prevent backflips on our nasty hills
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:29 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Stretch is in the plans. I have to figure out the steering in the front to determine stretch and of course figure out a link setup. I have a good rear 3 link setup, but the front is just toast. I found a guy who said he could narrow one side for $150 + shorten axle $30. So for $180 I could be in business, and with 8 lug. Then I could just do the adapter thing in the rear so I can run 8 lug all the way around. I am still picking up the rear full width D60 tomorrow since it is free! Hey, when and if I blow up the semi float I have something to go to.
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Old 10-14-2012, 10:50 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Here's a thought - 609. Since you got the late model Ford front (87-91 due to the short 2" axle tube on driver's side) on the cheap, I suggest an option of a custom front 609 using the inner C's knuckles out on an aftermarket 9" tube housing. You are going to have to step up on the wheels as the hub is the restrictor on the lug diameter.

If you decide to narrow the D60 front, you will MTL cut the longer side down rather than place the pinion in the stock Jeep TJ location and work from there out. Concern with locating the D60 diff is the relative size compared to the stock D30/44.
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:02 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I just tore out the old D30 tonight. On my way to getting the D60 in there.


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Old 12-02-2012, 11:01 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:35 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Man this is going to take some serious work. Especially for someone who is new to putting a front in from scratch. Wish me luck.

[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by esniper; 12-04-2012 at 11:37 PM.
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:37 AM   #21 (permalink)
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narrow it up and keep the body intact. I just tore down my full width crawler to build a narrower streetable jeep. IMO i didnt care for the width it didnt seem that awful much more stable turning got worse fitting anywhere was worse getting pulled over and better yet my jeep looked tacky liek i said just imo
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:51 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I don't drive it on the street at all, but thanks for your input.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:27 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I've run narrowed 60s converted to 5x5.5, and I'm replacing them in the current build with full width on 8x6.5. I wouldn't bother narrowing again, it's easier to run 17s with more backspacing.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:39 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esniper View Post
Man this is going to take some serious work. Especially for someone who is new to putting a front in from scratch. Wish me luck.

[IMG][/IMG]
The poly performance 3 link kit could be your new friend

Or check this kit from Ruff Stuff:http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/3LINKKT.html
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:22 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Yeah stick to full width and get some H2's..Go get them powder coated..and run drive flanges on the 60...It willl look alright, hubs will stick out a little, but with the slugs it will be ok....My YJ is full width, H2's, and 12.5 tire and it fits fine on a 16.5 foot car hauler trailer...

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