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Old 05-14-2013, 12:25 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Cut and beat the hell out of the panhard bar frame mount. I finally got it though.


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Old 05-14-2013, 12:27 PM   #27 (permalink)
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^ ya that panhard bracket was a bitch to get off
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:29 PM   #28 (permalink)
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My Victor Oxy/Ace O2 accelerator handle quit working. Switched out to my backup Craftsman.
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:43 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Pic of my 60 going in with artec truss
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:10 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Pic of my 60 going in with artec truss
Sweet! What knuckles and high steer arms did you go with?
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:16 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I have a problem with mine. My belly height with the belly up skid plate is at 28". It is pretty high. The frame is about 30". I wanted to bring it down to the mid 20's but I won't know how far I can come down till the truss and mounts show up. The upper link mounts are around 8" from center. The general wisdom from what I see is to offset the uppers and lowers by 25% of the tire size. I am running 40's so that is 10 inches. I may lower the lower link mounts down about an inch but that still only gives me 9". I think that is going to have to do in my case. I am guessing I will have about 4" of up travel available after the truss and tabs are in place. That will work, but that means I can't bring my overall vehicle height down at all. I will see what happens. I may move the axle forward even more so it is in front of the radiator or I may set this up like this for now, so I am rolling and chop off the front and go with tube when I get moved into the new house. "Good Times"!
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:57 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Got my 3rd freaking Lotus Plasma cutter today. It is an updated version of the same model. So far it is fine. It came with a plug, thicker ground clamp that grounds to both sides of the clamp, nicer power nob, upgraded on off button and a much nicer hand held.
Let's see how long this one lasts?


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Old 05-15-2013, 03:08 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Sweet! What knuckles and high steer arms did you go with?
Artec arms stock knuckles room is very tight for all the steering and track bar parts going in
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:50 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Artec arms stock knuckles room is very tight for all the steering and track bar parts going in
Not tight for me. Doing full hydro. I am thinking of doing the Artec arms because I could drill them out and do a double sheer with my stock arms. I haven't found another company that does high steer arms that align to stock knuckles. So far I have an 8" double ended ram. Working on orbital, but going to tap into the stock pump.
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:16 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Brown Santa "UPS" showed up today! I got my Artec Truss and accessories.

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Old 05-16-2013, 01:42 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:46 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I have 3" of clearance under the radiator. If I move the axle forward in front of the radiator I gain an inch to 4" of clearance. I guess I will be stretching it more than I thought. Anyone know of any disadvantages to moving the axle this far forward? I can shave 1/2" or more from the upper link mounts to gain a bit also, but my real goal is to lower the overall height of the HEEP. I am at 28" belly now. If I can sacrifice a little up travel and get the rig down an inch or two I think I will do it. Any feedback from you masters of the 4x4 world is appreciated.
I don't have the resources to do a tube front right now and would like to avoid moving the radiator. If the rig has to stay @ 28" I will just leave it there for now.


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Old 05-16-2013, 02:51 PM   #38 (permalink)
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I moved my front axle/upper link brackets to go right between the radiator and bottom pulley. I also have a 1" body lift and it raised the radiator up flush with body mount. Also have a 1" poly motor mount lift to accomodate. Put those on long time ago before i ever dreamed of the build im doin now, but im glad i did now cuz it has saved me soooo much in terms or clearance issues for everything. Only thing I'm worried about is the ram fittings hitting the bottom of radiator. but I guess I can rotate the ram to give more clearance.



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Old 05-16-2013, 04:25 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Rando, what size tires you running? The reason I ask is your seperation is probably similar to mine, 8". I am running 40's and 25% of seperation is 10". I don't know what the deal is with sepeation, but my guess is something to do with pinion angle as the axle rises and falls.
Also are you running Heims at the frame side also? Looks like you are running 2.0" DOM top and bottom. Are those 1.25 rod ends? I was going to do 7/8 uppers and 1.25 lower rod ends like everyone else, unless someone tells me they somehow destroyed their uppers.
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:37 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I have 3" of clearance under the radiator. If I move the axle forward in front of the radiator I gain an inch to 4" of clearance. I guess I will be stretching it more than I thought. Anyone know of any disadvantages to moving the axle this far forward? I can shave 1/2" or more from the upper link mounts to gain a bit also, but my real goal is to lower the overall height of the HEEP. I am at 28" belly now. If I can sacrifice a little up travel and get the rig down an inch or two I think I will do it. Any feedback from you masters of the 4x4 world is appreciated.
I don't have the resources to do a tube front right now and would like to avoid moving the radiator. If the rig has to stay @ 28" I will just leave it there for now.


I think I am going to order the smaller upper link mounts also. Originally I was going to go 2.0" with 1.25 rod ends top and bottom, but now I think I am going to do 7/8 uppers and 1.25 lowers to squeeze out a little more space. Hopefully with a little work I can drop the overall height down a few inches and still have at least 3 - 4" up travel.
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:44 PM   #41 (permalink)
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39.5 PBR's. I'm runnin 2" 1.25 lowers both ends and 1.5" uppers 7/8 both ends. Made my own upper mounts for the same reason you stated, clearance. The artec ones are just a bit too big for the smaller heims. Looks like we did the same research lol as your build is similar to mine. Im diggin it. Separation at the mounts is at 10" as well

Here's my build thread. I need to update a little. Still waitin on some c/o springs to get in. Then I can button everything up.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...age-build.html

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Old 05-16-2013, 06:00 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Sweet. Thanks for the pictures and info. My neighbor has a plasma table, but I don't like bugging him. He just came over and he said he would cut up whatever I needed.
Do your 39.5's rub the lower arms or do you have offset wheels? I was planning on using the lower mount points on my belly up skid plate, but with 0 offset wheels I am going to rub. I may build a crossmember for a triangulated lower so tires don't rub and to have stronger axle placement.
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:11 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Just the nubs on the outer tires barely rub at full lock, but nothing to get caught up in. I think the wheels are 4.5" back space but I have no idea really. They are 16" rim. I used some ruffstuff link tabs for both frame side uppers and axle side uppers, these....
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/..._Code=Linktabs
Cut them in half almost and burned em in. Worked perfect and are lower overall height.

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Old 05-16-2013, 10:09 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Just so you know, our smaller truss upper link mounts are quite a bit smaller than the big ones. Here's a pic of the plain tabs that we also offer which are the same height as the truss upper link mounts.


MOUNTS
TABS
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:13 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Why not move the radiator? Tilting it back will gain a lot of clearance, and you will most likely move it when you add a new front frame anyway.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:52 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Just so you know, our smaller truss upper link mounts are quite a bit smaller than the big ones. Here's a pic of the plain tabs that we also offer which are the same height as the truss upper link mounts.


MOUNTS
TABS
Ok, Artec - I am going to use those uppers I bought for something else. I am shopping around for rod ends. I see your package on the artec site with tabs, brackets, Dom and heims for $800 +. What kind of deal can you make me for 4 7/8 rod ends a 4 1.25 ends with spacers, tube adapters and jamb nuts? Basically a rod end kit. Oh, and add the smaller upper mounts.
If I get a better price I also need your high steer arms, ARP bolts, bolt kit for creating a double shear to a stock '85 ford nuckle, hydro heim kit and your HS arms. Hell I guess I just need your Dana 60 full hydro kit minus the Truss and Ram mount. LOL

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Old 05-17-2013, 12:00 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Why not move the radiator? Tilting it back will gain a lot of clearance, and you will most likely move it when you add a new front frame anyway.
I am playing Dominoes with this HEEP. Every time I touch one thing I have to change 2 more. I know I can do a lot of things, but I really want to get back on the trails. This pig has been down since Sept of '12 and it is absolutely killing me! I know I want to do it right, but I just want to finish it up and go wheeln! Anyway I appreciate the advice and might do it, but for now I measured it out and if I sacrifice 1.5" of forward stretch I gain about the same in up travel. Basically I am going to mimic RandoTX and half the people with stretched TJ's on Pirate and put the mounts between the Rad and the balancer. I plan on stretching the rear about 8" or so once I move. This should put me in the neighborhood of 108" for wheel base. It will sit higher than I would like, but I would rather sit higher and wheel it then work on it. Besides, I break shit all the time. I am on my 7th wheeln rig since '96. I am sure the Tcase or rear axle will knock me out within the year so I will mess with other stuff next time it is down.
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Old 05-17-2013, 05:35 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Looks good! You are making the right choice IMO on moving the axle back. 1.5" won't kill ya! My buggy was 107" and I thought it was perfect for where I wheel.

I would think up in the northwest with all the trees being a little shorter on the wheelbase will help you as well.
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:09 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Just so you know, our smaller truss upper link mounts are quite a bit smaller than the big ones. Here's a pic of the plain tabs that we also offer which are the same height as the truss upper link mounts.


MOUNTS
TABS
Thought I had every artec part, but I guess wrong! Lol if I would seen these I woulda gone with y'all.
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:26 PM   #50 (permalink)
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I shopped around and looked forum posts. The best bang for the buck from what I could find was from Ruff Stuff.
I just pulled the trigger on my rod ends and links from Ruff Stuff.

7/8" x 7/8" Rod End Set
Item# 78x78SET

$70.00 USD

2

$140.00 USD


1.25" Rod End Set 1.5" Tube ID
Item# 125RESET

$139.00 USD

2

$278.00 USD

4' lengths
DOM Tube, 2" X .25" Wall, 1.5" Tube ID
Item# 2X25DOM

$54.00 USD

2

$108.00 USD

3' lengths
DOM Tube, 1.5" X .25" Wall, 1" Tube ID
Item# 15X25DOM

$28.15 USD

2

$56.30 USD



Flat Short Link Tab
Item# FLTLTSHORT

$4.55 USD

8

$36.40 USD



Discount/Coupon (Coupon: PBB10)

-$61.87 USD


Subtotal

$556.83 USD


Shipping and handling

$61.07 USD


Total

$617.90 USD
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