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Old 05-30-2013, 04:46 PM   #76 (permalink)
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My chop saw couldn't hold the tabs well enough so I broke out the plasma. Here is my make shift table clamped to my trailer.
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:48 PM   #77 (permalink)
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After the rough cuts with the plasma I needed to make all the upper tabs relatively close to the same. Since I am in a rental house at the moment I don't have all the tools I would like to have so a vice and a grinder works.
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:01 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Looking good so far, I'm the guy who bought your Mtrs and trailreadys. Where did you get the 5x4.5 to 8x6.5 adapters?
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:49 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Hey dude! I hope you are putting them to good use. I got them off Amazon if you can believe that!

This was a reply to Oregon_Mudrunner who bought my old TR bead locks and 37" Goodyear MTR's. - Not sure where the original post went but oh well.
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:52 AM   #80 (permalink)
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Here is the link:
Wheel Adapter 5 Lug 4.5" to 8 Lug 6.5" - Pair : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:58 AM   #81 (permalink)
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Yeah they have been working out good, love the Mtrs in the snow. Thanks for the link, but it looks like there out of stock for now.
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Old 06-04-2013, 11:38 PM   #82 (permalink)
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I made some more progress.
Tacked in the truss, lower links axle and frame side.
My lower links are @ 41.5" and my uppers are at 29.05".
The driveline is really close to the lower link bar. I haven't articulated it yet to see if there is any chance of impact. It is about an 1.5" from the link. I was thinking I need to lower the lower brackets on the axle side maybe. <- Thoughts from anyone who has done this before?
Any other advice is welcome also. Anything in these pictures look sketchy to anyone????



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Old 06-04-2013, 11:40 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Hey, don't mess with Hello Kitty. <- Kids duct tape. That pussy is bad news!



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Old 06-04-2013, 11:42 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:19 AM   #85 (permalink)
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My stretch puts my wheel base @ 101". I plan on stretching the rear again about 10" so overall will be about 111".
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Old 06-05-2013, 04:48 PM   #86 (permalink)
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I am going to go ahead and drop the lower link brackets at the axle down to the eye whole even with the lower half of the axle tube. This will give me my 10" or 25% vertical separation and give more space for the driveline.
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:37 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Got the link brackets dropped down to where I am @ 10" of vert seperation. This also created more space for the drive line.





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Old 06-05-2013, 11:41 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Pictures for personal friends to reference. Here you go Glenn:
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:44 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Took the truss off and welded it up. Waiting to put it on till I get my vent fitting and the lower link brackets welded on all the way. They are tacked in place now.
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:09 PM   #90 (permalink)
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It looks like your lower link mounts will hang up alot. I would do the skid so they are flush, not hanging down. Or maybe go straight with the uppers to the frame.
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:35 PM   #91 (permalink)
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I doubt it I will ever hang up on these brackets. They will be so close to the 40" tire that an extra 1.5" of bracket hanging at a drop approach angle shouldn't hang up.
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Old 06-08-2013, 09:21 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esniper View Post
I doubt it I will ever hang up on these brackets. They will be so close to the 40" tire that an extra 1.5" of bracket hanging at a drop approach angle shouldn't hang up.
There is a reason most people shoot for a flat skid. They also shave diffs to gain 1-2". Good luck with the build
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Old 06-08-2013, 10:45 PM   #93 (permalink)
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People destroy calipers in the rocks, and you don't feel that brackets too low? I'm with Jeff, I can't see your lowers fairing well at all.
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Old 06-08-2013, 11:14 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Well before welding them in I called Artec and Ruff Stuff and both of those businesses recommended doing it this way. At any rate I am not worried about it. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 06-08-2013, 11:17 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Tonight I got the truss welded and lower brackets welded in. I hit it with some paint except for my upper link location. I still need to slide it back under the rig and get the angles set and tack them in for testing.

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Old 06-08-2013, 11:17 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Old 06-08-2013, 11:17 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:30 PM   #98 (permalink)
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I am trying to figure out where I want to cut my lower links. I have been doing some research on thread depth for my rod ends. According to one article in the link below I will need to thread my rods 1.5 x's the rod diameter.
I have pretty well made rod ends so I could go 1 x's the diameter @ 1 1/4. I think I will call the manufacture "Artec" and see what they recommend.
EMF Rod End FAQ
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:49 AM   #99 (permalink)
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Thread the lowers in all the way. leave them in while you weld the inserts into the tube and do not try to remove them until the tube is cool to the touch, or they will not thread back in without re-tapping the inserts.
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:41 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Is there a reason you're not welding in the corners of the lower axle link capture? Maybe just not done it yet?
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