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Old 05-13-2013, 11:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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TJ 1 Tons "Learn as I go" project

Revision # 1 of my 6 banger TJ had a Dana 44 rear and a Dana 30 front on 37" tires and TR bead-locks. This served me well, believe it or not, for 3 years. I tried to blow up the D30, but only succeeded in grenading the rear. So I replaced the rear with a Dana 60. After a year I finally tore up the front, but didn't kill it. I tore it apart and the lock-rite was still salvageable, so I welded the POS. I ran it hard for 3 or 4 runs when finally I snapped the axle shaft, due to zero give. Now I have an excuse to upgrade! "But babe, the jeep is broken and I need to fix it!"
Pictures and video of all the rigs I have had and quads on my site http://www.wheeln.com

Old specs
Dana 30 w/ 4:56's and a lockrite
narrowed 61" Dana 60 rear with spool 4:56
Dutchman axles with 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern
TR beadlocks x 4
Goodyear 37" tires. 37x12.50r15lt

Anyway here is where I plan to post yet another 1 Ton build.
New specs
D60 rear narrowed to 61" WMS - Damn hindsight is 20/20- unfortunately semi float for now. If I nuke it I will go shaved 14 bolt. Using 2" 5 on 4.5" to 8 on 6.5 spacers! We shall see how long this rearend lasts.
D60 HP in front full width
40" Goodyear MTR Spiders - traded full float D60 rear and $500 - Craigslist
17" aluminum american racing rims - $200 off craigslist
stock 4.0 liter w/ Manual trans
Tcase - 4:1 gears provided by Teraflex Teralow
5:38 gears Spool in back - undecided front locker

OLD Pictures of the TJ





New picture will be a while - will post when upgrades are complete
Mock up of just the front in its potential area. Rear stretch will be next.


Tire size difference - Wow

My personal website for all things offroad http://www.wheeln.com

Jarrod

Last edited by esniper; 05-15-2013 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Broken Dana 44 rear







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Old 05-13-2013, 11:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Dana 60 install


Truss - Rough Stuff

All in one axle spring perch and lower control arm Ballistic Fab
I didn't pay attention to the height of the perch, so I had to cut it down as far as I could. 2.5" -









How does anyone operate or find anything in this total disaster zone!



I put the Dana 60 in several times to get the pinion angle correct. After I got it in I realized my tank was a bit to close for comfort.
I knew I was going to do another stretch at some point so I decided on a fuel cell.
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Fuel Cell install (RCI 2161A) - Amazon - Yes Amazon.com
I took a perfectly good aluminum fuel cell and cut into it.
I bought the KORE stock fuel pump adapter and put it in.



Ring wasn't put together properly - missing spot weld
Kore was really cool and sent me another one.


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Old 05-14-2013, 12:12 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Tank out - Fit test

My brother standing idle in his socks thinking, this looks sketchy!



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Old 05-14-2013, 12:27 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Ripped the dana 30 out





Pictures of the weld and broken shaft



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Old 05-14-2013, 12:29 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Picked up a HP Dana 60


Staged it under the rig just to see
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:33 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Tore down the D60 and spoiled myself at the sand blasters



Staged it

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Old 05-14-2013, 12:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Bought something I think is stupid, but did it anyway for now.
5 on 4.5 to 8 on 6.5 adapter/spacers for the rear 60 to add 4" I had previously taken out. I had planned on narrowing the front, but then changed my mind. Doh!

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Old 05-14-2013, 12:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Went nuts with a few rattle cans



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Old 05-14-2013, 12:45 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Installed my Belly UP skid plate. Craigslist $150.

I got the bolts I ordered and went to put the belly pan in so I can mock up my links. This F'n Jeep hates my guts. The frame rail threading mounting holes are all stripped out. Unbelievable! Anyway I plasma cut all three out and made up some of my own frame mounts with grade 8 nuts and washers. I know this is a horrible weld job but it will work. Plus nobody will ever see it once it is all installed.



Once I am done I still have to adjust the transfer case linkage, haven't even looked yet. Hopefully I didn't bend the shit out of anything when I pushed the pan up for the mock up mount.
I aligned things by spray painting the side brakets with red paint and then center punching it. I then drilled a 3/16th pilot hole. After that I used a 1" whole bit to fit the frame spacers in. I left the spacers in to give me the rought alignment on the other side of the frame rail. I drilled a 1/2 whole through both side. Then I popped in the frame spacers and tack welded them in.





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Old 05-14-2013, 12:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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cont....


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Last edited by esniper; 05-14-2013 at 12:48 AM.
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:49 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I am ready to pull the trigger on all my purchases needed to get this HEEP done.
I have been doing research and trying to do this right. It looks like ARTEC is going to be where I get most of my stuff if the price is right. Otherwise its fab time except for the high steer arms, I want to buy those.
Video of travel distance for stock knuckles. http://s1182.photobucket.com/user/Ja...6cb52.mp4.html

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Old 05-14-2013, 12:50 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Working on my 4 link calculator numbers for the front. Good times! My brain hurts!
I am guessing at the weight sections. I believe this is not going to cut it. The anti-squat is probably too high, but not sure what that means anyway. I am still researching other builds. Some people have ran almost straight lower links and got away with it. At least I am trying to get some angle to them.
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:51 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Well I got my POS plasma cutter back from Lotus Mosaic and it works, but the F'n fan isn't even mounted properly let alone working. So of course it overheats. I paid almost $100 to ship it to them in Cali to fix and back. I just got it back! It is under warranty, so they better pay for shipping this time.
Do not buy one of these.... MOSAIC PILOT ARC LTP5000D 50A Plasma Cutter
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:52 AM   #16 (permalink)
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With the OXY/ACE and semi working plasma cutter I cut off the old spring/shock mounts to make room for the hoops and 14" ORI's.


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Old 05-14-2013, 12:52 AM   #17 (permalink)
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HMMM This is why IAN Johnson, from the TV show Extreme 4x4, elects to take his time with the hot wrench instead of the plasma cutter. I cut into the frame a bit. Nut'n a little fill welding can't fix. DOH! I don't think it needs bracing. It looks like _____. <- fill in the blank!





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Old 05-14-2013, 12:54 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I went and bought a Dewalt grinder today. Man that made things much easier. Harbor freight is good for some things, but spending money in the right places sure pays off. It is the 4.5" 10 Amp grinder if you were wondering. Totally worth it!

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Old 05-14-2013, 12:54 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I am looking for a house with a 3 car garage and RV parking like I used to have. Can't wait to have room again.
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:55 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Removed the power steering gear box, bracket and skid plate. I attempted to remove the frame side Panhard bar mount, but only made it half way through when I ran out of oxygen! Trip to Airgas tomorrow will solve that.

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Old 05-14-2013, 12:56 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Ordered my Artec truss and a few other things. I got the notice it is being shipped! Can't wait to get going on this thing.


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Old 05-14-2013, 07:19 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I have the same plasma and so far no problems but only used it twice. Cut like butter and better than my old hobart plasma. Guess its the luck of the draw when getting one. Nice build..................
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:58 AM   #23 (permalink)
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First off nice build. Take the below as friendly advice not someone hating on you.

60" on the rear axle seem REALLY narrow. since it sounds like you might upgrade to a 14 bolt anyway I would plan to keep it full width and take up the width in the wheel offset. As you progress in wheeling and get more and more "hardcore" I think you will kick yourself for using an axle that narrow.

You can pick up a CUCV 14 bolt cheap enough w/ a Detroit that IMO I'd make the switch now and be done with it!

I had narrow axles(61-62") in a jeep(CJ) and full tube buggy with 45*+ steering. I liked how narrow my rig was but never got everything to clear without minor rubbing! The narrow axles made fitting links, greater than stock steering and suspension(shocks) a lot harder!! Its possible but a LOT more work.

My next rig will have full width axles and 5.5" offset wheels to help with mounting everything. Should be around 82-83" outside of the tires with that set up.

Just my .02 so take it for what it's worth.
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:18 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by offroadman83 View Post
I have the same plasma and so far no problems but only used it twice. Cut like butter and better than my old hobart plasma. Guess its the luck of the draw when getting one. Nice build..................
I have had to send my plasma back twice. They are sending me an updated version of the same model. I like it when it works.
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:23 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blase View Post
First off nice build. Take the below as friendly advice not someone hating on you.

60" on the rear axle seem REALLY narrow. since it sounds like you might upgrade to a 14 bolt anyway I would plan to keep it full width and take up the width in the wheel offset. As you progress in wheeling and get more and more "hardcore" I think you will kick yourself for using an axle that narrow.

You can pick up a CUCV 14 bolt cheap enough w/ a Detroit that IMO I'd make the switch now and be done with it!

I had narrow axles(61-62") in a jeep(CJ) and full tube buggy with 45*+ steering. I liked how narrow my rig was but never got everything to clear without minor rubbing! The narrow axles made fitting links, greater than stock steering and suspension(shocks) a lot harder!! Its possible but a LOT more work.

My next rig will have full width axles and 5.5" offset wheels to help with mounting everything. Should be around 82-83" outside of the tires with that set up.

Just my .02 so take it for what it's worth.
Blase - I totally agree, but when I blew up the rear I had to rebuild or replace it. I decided to replace it and went ahead and narrowed it to match the front. <- Total mistake, but live and learn. I didn't have the $$ to get into the front and barely had the dough to even do the D60 rear. I have spacers on the rear now and will wheel it like this till it breaks, and then find myself a 14 bolt. - Thanks for the feedback.
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