king fu brake upgrade HELP needed - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

jeepraiderjoe · 05-12-2003, 04:26 AM

for those of you not familiar with this here is the skinny: i replaced my master cylinder with a master cylinder from a 98' dodge 3500 pick up, and while i had it apart i got rid of all the abs crap ,and the proportioning valve plumbing directly to the master cylinder .. i also got the bright idea to replace the booster because i had a new tj booster lying around but while the side toward the master cylinder are the same the rod that hooks up to the pedal is longer so my brake pedal is way high , so that will need to be put back the way it was.anyway the problem is this my brake pedal is hard as a rock and will just stop the truck.i know the lines are all clear because when i bled them i coulda drown in brake fluid under there. ( the person pumping the pedal was a litlle overzealous) i checked the booster and it is indeed pulling . i think it has something to do with the bleeding process, but any help is appreciated of course

joe

underDAWG · 05-12-2003, 04:59 AM

If I understand you correctly. I think your push rod is just too long although this does not make sense. I have TJ and I replace my MC with a dodge 3500, I need to make a space lengthen the push rod. HTH.

jeepraiderjoe · 05-12-2003, 06:40 PM

i was wondering if maybe i had put too long of a spacer in there too. i think tomorrow i'm going to replace the booster with my zj booster to improve the angle on the brake pedal and while i'm at it i'll shorten up the spacer a hair.

joe

Azzy2000 · 05-12-2003, 06:57 PM

The length of the spacer is critical... it is a pain in the ass to get it right.. but well worth it. do a search on my original posts on the dodge 3500 conversion..

jeepraiderjoe · 05-12-2003, 07:33 PM

does the rod( including spacer) have to be touching the master cylinder or should there be a little space? what i did was went to the hardware and bought a stud with the same thread patern as the little adjustment screw in the booster. i then bought a cap nut to fit in the M/C recess. them i just adjusted it out until it was just touching the master cylinder when bolted up. so shoul i have left a little gap in between my rod and the master cylinder? like this

---------)
or like this--------- ) ????????

Azzy2000 · 05-12-2003, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jeepraiderjoe
does the rod( including spacer) have to be touching the master cylinder or should there be a little space?

I set mine so it was just barely touching.. but not putting any pressure against it.. it works fine.

jeepraiderjoe · 05-12-2003, 07:50 PM

i'm really hoping it is a problem with the angle of the pedal due to the fact the tj booster has a longer actuator rod because right now the pedal is really high so i think i'm having to push down a little bit thereby losing some of the mechanical advantage of the pedal. i read somewhere the pedal should be within 5 degrees of parallel to the actuator rod and i'm nowhere near that

05-12-2003, 04:26 AM	#1 (permalink)
jeepraiderjoe Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Member # 18920 Location: grand rapids mich Posts: 70	kung fu brake upgrade HELP needed for those of you not familiar with this here is the skinny: i replaced my master cylinder with a master cylinder from a 98' dodge 3500 pick up, and while i had it apart i got rid of all the abs crap ,and the proportioning valve plumbing directly to the master cylinder .. i also got the bright idea to replace the booster because i had a new tj booster lying around but while the side toward the master cylinder are the same the rod that hooks up to the pedal is longer so my brake pedal is way high , so that will need to be put back the way it was.anyway the problem is this my brake pedal is hard as a rock and will just stop the truck.i know the lines are all clear because when i bled them i coulda drown in brake fluid under there. ( the person pumping the pedal was a litlle overzealous) i checked the booster and it is indeed pulling . i think it has something to do with the bleeding process, but any help is appreciated of course joe __________________ 96'zj 231 w/s.y.e, h.p d30, 8.8, 4.10's,arb w/ warn 900033x12.5x15 rvers,rubiconexpresssprings ,jks arms,kolakexhaust/ignition, raider nation sticker Last edited by jeepraiderjoe; 05-12-2003 at 07:52 PM.

05-12-2003, 04:59 AM	#2 (permalink)
underDAWG Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Member # 15664 Location: Moab, DE Posts: 64	If I understand you correctly. I think your push rod is just too long although this does not make sense. I have TJ and I replace my MC with a dodge 3500, I need to make a space lengthen the push rod. HTH. __________________ UnderDAWG Mods: Hell with the D60, but My Dana 100 coming soon :D

05-12-2003, 06:40 PM	#3 (permalink)
jeepraiderjoe Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Member # 18920 Location: grand rapids mich Posts: 70	i was wondering if maybe i had put too long of a spacer in there too. i think tomorrow i'm going to replace the booster with my zj booster to improve the angle on the brake pedal and while i'm at it i'll shorten up the spacer a hair. joe __________________ 96'zj 231 w/s.y.e, h.p d30, 8.8, 4.10's,arb w/ warn 900033x12.5x15 rvers,rubiconexpresssprings ,jks arms,kolakexhaust/ignition, raider nation sticker

05-12-2003, 07:33 PM	#5 (permalink)
jeepraiderjoe Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Member # 18920 Location: grand rapids mich Posts: 70	does the rod( including spacer) have to be touching the master cylinder or should there be a little space? what i did was went to the hardware and bought a stud with the same thread patern as the little adjustment screw in the booster. i then bought a cap nut to fit in the M/C recess. them i just adjusted it out until it was just touching the master cylinder when bolted up. so shoul i have left a little gap in between my rod and the master cylinder? like this ---------) or like this--------- ) ???????? __________________ 96'zj 231 w/s.y.e, h.p d30, 8.8, 4.10's,arb w/ warn 900033x12.5x15 rvers,rubiconexpresssprings ,jks arms,kolakexhaust/ignition, raider nation sticker Last edited by jeepraiderjoe; 05-12-2003 at 07:43 PM.

05-12-2003, 07:50 PM	#7 (permalink)
jeepraiderjoe Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Member # 18920 Location: grand rapids mich Posts: 70	i'm really hoping it is a problem with the angle of the pedal due to the fact the tj booster has a longer actuator rod because right now the pedal is really high so i think i'm having to push down a little bit thereby losing some of the mechanical advantage of the pedal. i read somewhere the pedal should be within 5 degrees of parallel to the actuator rod and i'm nowhere near that __________________ 96'zj 231 w/s.y.e, h.p d30, 8.8, 4.10's,arb w/ warn 900033x12.5x15 rvers,rubiconexpresssprings ,jks arms,kolakexhaust/ignition, raider nation sticker

05-12-2003, 06:57 PM	#4 (permalink)
Azzy2000 Mr. Personality Join Date: May 2002 Member # 11869 Location: Yukon, OK Posts: 4,264	The length of the spacer is critical... it is a pain in the ass to get it right.. but well worth it. do a search on my original posts on the dodge 3500 conversion..

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode