Okay I think a Dana 44 is the only logical option?

[Doc Johnson]

So what year do I need? And from what vehicle?

I was thinking about a Ford F - 150 Like in the mid 70's?? Would this work well?

I want disc brakes on the axle.


I would also assume the axle would have locking hubs?

Since it is wider should I cut it down or just get different wheel spacing?

Yes I plan on using the search function to.

[Road Head]

I know you are trying to keep cost down, but you will probably be looking for an axle comparable in width to your 8.8 rear. I would look for a HP 44 housing from a 70's f-150. Then buy a waggy front axle, and put the tubes, knuckles, disc brakes and shafts into the HP 44 housing and set up your gears. Sell the waggy housing and you are good to go. That way you get HP 44, disc brakes, 6x5.5 and width of 61". If you get a HP 44 out of an F-150, it will be too wide. Your options would be to get it cut down (cast radius arms will be a pia), or get it retubed to waggy width, and use waggy shafts. I am sure there are other options as well.

[Doc Johnson]

Originally posted by Road Head
I know you are trying to keep cost down, but you will probably be looking for an axle comparable in width to your 8.8 rear. I would look for a HP 44 housing from a 70's f-150. Then buy a waggy front axle, and put the tubes, knuckles, disc brakes and shafts into the HP 44 housing and set up your gears. Sell the waggy housing and you are good to go. That way you get HP 44, disc brakes, 6x5.5 and width of 61". If you get a HP 44 out of an F-150, it will be too wide. Your options would be to get it cut down (cast radius arms will be a pia), or get it retubed to waggy width, and use waggy shafts. I am sure there are other options as well.

A local shop said they could cut it down for like 100 bucks. That sounds good to me!!

I found one from a F250. It is a HP D44, complete rotor to rotor for $300. Has 4.10 gears. How does this sound?

[Po' riggity]

If you can get the axle cut down for 100 bucks, and you have a line on the HP 44 for 300 bucks with the gears you want, Id go for it. Just make sure that the radius wedges are welded on, not cast.
Scott

[JJSBADYJ]

the F250 has spring perches and they are pretty dam close to the right width for a YJ frame. I have the same axle under my Jeep only I left it full width. You wont be disappointed with the choice for a D44 over your pos 30

post some pics too!!!

[AK TJ]

Just remember if you cut that axle down, you will need to get custom shafts ($$) or get it cut to a waggy's width and use those axles shafts

[Oxjockey]

Originally posted by Doc Johnson


A local shop said they could cut it down for like 100 bucks. That sounds good to me!!

$100 for cutting an axle down? How do they do it? Not that I care, but I think you should question it for only $100.

[Doc Johnson]

Originally posted by Oxjockey


$100 for cutting an axle down? How do they do it? Not that I care, but I think you should question it for only $100.

I do not know. It is the place called Extreme Performance here in town? I guess he knows what he is doing.

[Oxjockey]

Originally posted by Doc Johnson


I do not know. It is the place called Extreme Performance here in town? I guess he knows what he is doing.

I'm getting surgery for only $50, I guess my doctor knows what he's doing...

[Doc Johnson]

Originally posted by Oxjockey


I'm getting surgery for only $50, I guess my doctor knows what he's doing...

That is right. No one knows. How much should it cost then?

[Oxjockey]

Originally posted by Doc Johnson


That is right. No one knows. How much should it cost then?

I wouldn't be so concerned with price as procedure. If he's pulling off a tube removal, cut, press and reweld for $100, fine, then good deal. Cutting and butt welding, well, you couldn't pay me $100 for that.

[bigdude]

Originally posted by Oxjockey


I wouldn't be so concerned with price as procedure. If he's pulling off a tube removal, cut, press and reweld for $100, fine, then good deal. Cutting and butt welding, well, you couldn't pay me $100 for that.

My guess is cut the long side knuckle off, remove excess tube, sleeve, and re-weld. If that's the process for $100 it's a deal. Normally that runs roughly $200/side from previous inquiries. That way you retain the stock length short side, need one custom length shaft, and move the spring perch from your housing on the Drivers side to the tube.

If you're looking for shafts (which you'll need at least one for sure) I'd refer to this post....http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hreadid=142814

Get the CTMs while you're at it and be done

[wiltech]

Originally posted by Oxjockey


I wouldn't be so concerned with price as procedure. If he's pulling off a tube removal, cut, press and reweld for $100, fine, then good deal. Cutting and butt welding, well, you couldn't pay me $100 for that.

Hmm this thread has me a bit worried about the quote I got from Moser. They quoted me $265 to cut down both sides of a GM dana 44 (to scout width), respline one inner axle, and one new inner axle

Tony W

[Oxjockey]

Originally posted by wiltech


Hmm this thread has me a bit worried about the quote I got from Moser. They quoted me $265 to cut down both sides of a GM dana 44 (to scout width), respline one inner axle, and one new inner axle

Tony W

Overall, what I was trying to tell Doc J was that the price is irrelevant to the process. If you're getting a crappy job out of it, then $100 might be the right price. If you're getting a quality job for $100, then it's a good deal, but know BEFORE you get it done.

I think I'd trust a name like Moser more than 'some guy in town'.

Unless you live near Moser or Currie, etc.

[gripguru]

Originally posted by AK TJ
Just remember if you cut that axle down, you will need to get custom shafts ($$) or get it cut to a waggy's width and use those axles shafts

I just finished this exact project. I cut a 78 f250 RC44 to waggy width and I will be using warn or comparable alloy shafts(after the first break). I do not have the write up completed, but I took pictures of everything. I did the whole thing in my garage, except 66CJDean laid the bead of weld to get the C's back on (I had the axle completely ready for him to just point the MIG at it) Check the photos, from the link below.
$100 sounds good IF the shop tells you that they are doing it correctly. Or if you are confident in your own skills, take that project on all by yourself. Or leave it full width


narrowing a 44

[gripguru]

Originally posted by wiltech


Hmm this thread has me a bit worried about the quote I got from Moser. They quoted me $265 to cut down both sides of a GM dana 44 (to scout width), respline one inner axle, and one new inner axle

Tony W

That is a great deal and they do great work.

[payton]

Originally posted by Oxjockey


Overall, what I was trying to tell Doc J was that the price is irrelevant to the process. If you're getting a crappy job out of it, then $100 might be the right price. If you're getting a quality job for $100, then it's a good deal, but know BEFORE you get it done.

I think I'd trust a name like Moser more than 'some guy in town'.

Unless you live near Moser or Currie, etc.

ok im gonna jump in here i know the guys at exterme ive know paul for a while.. and i know hes good.. i know jeff troy all off them.. there good they will work with ya.. they will help u out any way possible.. paul the owner is a 4x4 mud drager.. and has a nice beast.. i wouldnt call his work shit.. u dont know him so dont start spouting offf its like me calling u shit.. i dont know u so i cant.. i know the guys and id trust them to do any thing to my rig.. with that being said i dont think you can go wrong with exterme.. if your not sure bout there work talk to them tell em explain ud like to be involed i bet they will let ya be there when the cut it ..

payton

[WillisXJ]

I have gotten a couple quotes from shops that will cut both sides downs, press the 'C's back on, set the angles and weld them for around $150 (that's both sides). Dutchman charges about $75 to cut down and respline 2 shafts.

Just because you got a lowball quote, doesn't mean it's a crappy job. Just make sure you know what work is going into your axle. You will be able to see the end of your tube inside your 'C'. You should be able to tell if it is a fresh cut or not.

[gripguru]

I now have the axle completed with the following parts:
78f250 rc44
cut to waggy width
waggy shafts(inner and outer)
89dodge ramcharger outers-
- > from the c's out
knuckles are flat and the pass side was machined for steer arm
knuckles are also machined to accept chevy TRE's for the tie rod
Knuckle - brake bracket machined to clear the waggy shafts
bought new calipers at napa - $95 for both with brake pads
bought new rotors - $35ea at kragen
5on5.5" lug pattern, same lug nuts as ford, jeep
dodge hubs, spindles and bearings
all dodge = no mix and match but machine work was different than chevy

And one final thing:
chevy dodge and waggy 44 stub shafts, for the most part are interchangeable ie the waggy shafts bolted up to the dodge outers with no problem and the dodge stub shaft has the same part no as most chevy 44 stubs.
Hope this shares some insight, cause it is all fresh in my mind.

[Oxjockey]

Originally posted by payton


i wouldnt call his work shit.. u dont know him so dont start spouting offf its like me calling u shit..

payton

Oh, shut the fuck up. All I was saying was find out what they do before getting your axle done there.

[JeepinIan]

Originally posted by Doc Johnson


A local shop said they could cut it down for like 100 bucks. That sounds good to me!!

I found one from a F250. It is a HP D44, complete rotor to rotor for $300. Has 4.10 gears. How does this sound?

The F250 is an 8 lug hub. You have an 8.8" in the rear. You would need 2 different rims to go that route.
edit: Don't you have 5 on 4.5" wheels?

[Doc Johnson]

Originally posted by gripguru
I now have the axle completed with the following parts:
78f250 rc44
cut to waggy width
waggy shafts(inner and outer)
89dodge ramcharger outers-
- > from the c's out
knuckles are flat and the pass side was machined for steer arm
knuckles are also machined to accept chevy TRE's for the tie rod
Knuckle - brake bracket machined to clear the waggy shafts
bought new calipers at napa - $95 for both with brake pads
bought new rotors - $35ea at kragen
5on5.5" lug pattern, same lug nuts as ford, jeep
dodge hubs, spindles and bearings
all dodge = no mix and match but machine work was different than chevy

And one final thing:
chevy dodge and waggy 44 stub shafts, for the most part are interchangeable ie the waggy shafts bolted up to the dodge outers with no problem and the dodge stub shaft has the same part no as most chevy 44 stubs.
Hope this shares some insight, cause it is all fresh in my mind.

Okay I am going to look like a hipocrite but that is alot of work just to gain a bigger ring gear. From the extensive research I did the last couple of days it seems that the Dana 44 will still break axles like I am now. I seems like a lot of trouble to cut the axle down and deal with the different bolt pattern only to gain what?? A bigger ring gear. Well I did not break a ring and pinion.

I do not know what I want to do any more. I will probably just put in 297 shafts. When my dana 30 breaks I will find a front 60, Rear C-14, do a spring over, Put on some 38.5 Boggers and continue to have fun.

[payton]

Originally posted by Oxjockey


Oh, shut the fuck up. All I was saying was find out what they do before getting your axle done there.

get a life.. stop putting ever one else down worthless and i wont shut the fuck up
when saying
I'd trust a name like Moser more than 'some guy in town'.
and other commments when u dont know what that fuck ur talking bout.. sum times its the lil guys who do the better work..


payton

[Oxjockey]

Originally posted by payton


get a life.. stop putting ever one else down worthless and i wont shut the fuck up
when saying
I'd trust a name like Moser more than 'some guy in town'.
and other commments when u dont know what that fuck ur talking bout.. sum times its the lil guys who do the better work..


payton

You need to chill out. I said I trust them MORE than some unnamed Joe Blow. I can have a preference, can't I? I never said anyone did crappy work and I never put anyone else down! Jesus Christ.

I've had about a dozen axles shortened by a guy who works in his basement by himself, and I trust HIM more than anyone so

But I forgot, I'm being derogatory and saying your guy's work is crap. Ever composed a whole sentence? At once? No spelling errors?

[gripguru]

Originally posted by Doc Johnson



Okay I am going to look like a hipocrite but that is alot of work just to gain a bigger ring gear. From the extensive research I did the last couple of days it seems that the Dana 44 will still break axles like I am now. I seems like a lot of trouble to cut the axle down and deal with the different bolt pattern only to gain what?? A bigger ring gear. Well I did not break a ring and pinion.

I do not know what I want to do any more. I will probably just put in 297 shafts. When my dana 30 breaks I will find a front 60, Rear C-14, do a spring over, Put on some 38.5 Boggers and continue to have fun.

Pretty good idea IMO. The axle was pretty easy to do, and I am just some guy, but now you have an idea of what it takes. The things that you left out about the benefit of the swap are the steering, the axle tubes and the locking hubs. I can now run a detroit in the front. I agree that you should go with the axles that you stated above, and you should leave them full width too. At least you are doing the research, cause that is the most important part. All of the things that are an upgrade will be even better with the 60front. Do it, but shop first and know what you are getting, cause they are $$$.
Thanks to the other two guys that have so much beneficial information to add to the thread.