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Old 06-10-2003, 06:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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2.5L on 35s

Yes I did the whole search thing. My friend and I just graduated last week and for a present his parents bought him a new set of tires. They are very nice but I think that they are too BIG. (Goodyear MTRs 35") He has them on a 95' YJ with a 3" body lift and the 2.5L engine. It still has the stock axels with 4.10 gears. It will soon be SOA. I was wondering if anybody else had this setup. Pictures would be helpfull allong with any other mods that should be added to his rig. Also any other sugestions.
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Old 06-10-2003, 06:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Yes I do run 33 and 35 in a 2.5L

The lower you can go with the front D30 is 4:88. That is more than enough to run 33 with more or less the same acceleration as the stock with 215-75-15...

With the 35 you loose a little punch but you can still use the 5th gear, even in climbs.

WITHOUT a gear change : NO-GO

simply put the 2.5 can´t run 33 with grace geared with 4.11....much less 35".

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Old 06-10-2003, 06:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm going to have to DISAGREE

I run a YJ with a 2.5L, full widths, 37's and 4.88's. I'll blow by you on the freeway going 65 in 4th gear between 3000 and 3500 rpm on a 6% grade. I can easily use 5th to maintain on level or downhill of course.

A while ago I ran those awful heavy ass 36x14.50 mickey thompson baja belted tires with my stock setup (4.10's, d30, d35)
The freeway was a little interesting but you'll be fine.

Just because you don't have the gears doesn't mean you cant hack that setup until you swap axles or gears.
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Old 06-10-2003, 08:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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36"s and 4.88s but not stock axles front or rear. Shitty on the highway and fine on the trail.

I have always told people that if gas mileage or highway/high speed performance is a big objective to them a SWB Jeep is a piss poor choice.

Make sure you run 4.88 or 5.13 gears and get some light alloy wheels and keep with light radial tires (overinflated, ie >30psi) and you will have the best highway performance possible.
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Old 06-10-2003, 10:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I've got the 2.5L with the automatic and 4.56s. I can still go highway speeds, but I'm at 3000RPM. 35" MTRs aren't big, mine only measure out 33.5"
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Old 06-11-2003, 07:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Some people on this board must be smokin' crack...LOL I have a 95 YJ 2.5L 63k 4.56's and 33 SSR's and there's no way I'd switch to 35's with my gears...5th is mostly useless. On the interstate I'm winding her out at 3700 in 3ed to make it up hills here in WV @55...But that's all going to change soon.
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Old 06-11-2003, 10:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thumbs up 35"s on the 2.5

I've got 35" SSRs on my 2.5l YJ - I dropped the gears down to 4.88s and swapped the rear axle out, the D30 is borderline for the 35"s the D35 is gonna blow axleshafts if you wheel it.

It's a good setup, it'll still do 80mph out in the flatlands, slows to 55 up over the divide, but then I'm not alone there.

My heep is SOA on 2.5" lift springs (OME fronts, Procomp rears), no other lift - it'll fit 37"s pretty easily. It has a SRS and I had to drop the T-case down 1" and move the new rear axle 1" back to keep the driveline from vibrating. Also I'd go ahead and plan on an anti-wrap bar with the springover, without one I can destroy springs and driveshafts at will...



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Old 06-11-2003, 11:08 AM   #8 (permalink)
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i have an 87 XJ with 4.88's and 37 MTRs with the 4 popper and it runs well on the free way, i can do 70 but have to drop it in fourth to climb the big hills and my speed drops to about 63, but i can still pull 14 MPG!
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Old 06-11-2003, 11:23 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I think that a lot of people are over looking the tire choices, not just the size. Swampers of any flavor weigh more. I've noticed a big difference with my 2.5L with just swapping between steel and aluminum rims.
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Old 06-11-2003, 11:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I run the 2.5 and 33x14 boggers at 4.10

the boggers weigh a ton so i changed to alloy rims

I can run 60/70 on the highway but going up the mountains blows...

I could run 35s but im changing the axle ratio to 4.88 before I do that

Remember myself and Andy are running at 5280ft at our driveways
It would be better at sealevel


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Old 06-11-2003, 12:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I was running 35" MT/R's with my 4cyl, now I'm on 37's, but I was smart (?) and swapped to 5.38's when I was still on 33's, I miss my OD trans, by it's still freeway-able at 4000rpm.

A re-gear, or a tire sale is in your buddies future.
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Old 06-11-2003, 05:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Arrow ok I'll chime in

i run a 2.5L YJ on 38's. my rig is not a daily driver though. I think it will run about 60, but I would not want to try. I am running a 4.88 gear. That is the lowest I could go with the high pinions. I say go as big as you want just give yourself an extra 15 minutes to get were you need to go.
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Old 06-11-2003, 06:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm running 35" mtr's on my 94 2.5liter yj. I got 4.88 gears now though and a d44 in the rear from a 78 scout II. I wouldn't put the 35's on untill you upgrade your rear end to a d44. I have a 4" RE susp lift sua and a 2 inch body lift and a 1 1/4 inch shackle lift and I still have to do some hacking to my fenders to keep my tires from rubbing. On the freeway it takes a little while to get up to speed but I can cruise at about 70 mph In forth at 3800 rpm's and in fith at 3100 rpm's (it has to be flat, downhill or wind to my back though). If you want to run 35's replace the rearend (scout II from 71 - 80 d44's are the cheapest and easiest I think), get at least a 4" susp lift or SOA and plan on losing the front and rear track bars which will make your stearing quite a bit more squirrily. Also get 4.88 gears, 4.10's just won't cut it (you would have to cruise on the freeway in 3rd gear, that would just be funny). To get your jeep properly ready for 35" tires you would have to spend about $1000 for gears and installation, $300 - $400 for d44 includes brake parts, u-joint and fabrication materials (will cost more if someone fabricates it for you). So figure spending $1400 over and above what the SOA is gonna cost you. Good luck!

Maybe a little more then just $.02.

PS. This is just the beginning once you get 35's and start wheeling you'll find your self forking out more money for a locker, winch, full cage and the list goes on as the money disapears.
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Old 06-12-2003, 09:30 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Whatta ya guys think a 4 banger with 5.13's and 39.5's is gonna be like?

5 speed, BTW.
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Old 06-12-2003, 09:49 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by LAME
Whatta ya guys think a 4 banger with 5.13's and 39.5's is gonna be like?

5 speed, BTW.
It will be shit and smoke a lot of clutches in real wheeling Needs at least a 4:1 in the t-case IMO

I have 5.13s and an auto w/ my 37s. Good for most situations but sometimes not enough ass; requiring the neutral to drive drop at 3000 rpms. I'm moving to a 1400-1500 stall in the torque coverter as stock is around 1000-1200.
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Old 06-12-2003, 09:54 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by bigdude


It will be shit and smoke a lot of clutches in real wheeling Needs at least a 4:1 in the t-case IMO

I have 5.13s and an auto w/ my 37s. Good for most situations but sometimes not enough ass; requiring the neutral to drive drop at 3000 rpms. I'm moving to a 1400-1500 stall in the torque coverter as stock is around 1000-1200.
\


Thats what I have been thinking. How much were your gears?
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Old 06-12-2003, 10:05 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I had 35's on my 4banger auto with 4.10's. It was my dd, but never saw a highway or anything. It wasnt that bad for around town, top was about 55 60. The 4.88's go in next weekend hopefully i will be able to see the highway cause its gonna be a long trip up to delaware if not

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Old 06-12-2003, 10:11 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Thats what I have been thinking. How much were your gears?
I think with rebuild kits and everything they were around $500-$600 F&R. I can't remember which but either the 14 bolt or the HP60 has an expensive 5.13 gear set. Either that or they are both expensive
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Old 06-12-2003, 10:26 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by bigdude


I think with rebuild kits and everything they were around $500-$600 F&R. I can't remember which but either the 14 bolt or the HP60 has an expensive 5.13 gear set. Either that or they are both expensive
Naw the t-case.

His Tera60/RC44 combo is all set up
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Old 06-12-2003, 10:49 AM   #20 (permalink)
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35's with the 5 speed and 4 banger, 5.38's. Ran em for years with 33's and they were a bit low for the road, 3500 rpm at about 65 I think. With the 35's Its about stock according to the numbers.
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Old 06-12-2003, 10:57 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Naw the t-case.

They go for about $900 for the new ones. The older ones modified to fix a common problem can still be found in some distributors warehouses for around $800.
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Old 06-12-2003, 02:28 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I ran 36s and stock gears for the past 10 months. I took offroad trips pretty frequently too. Yeah its not fun on the freeway but it was doable. I could use 5th also sometimes. What I would have to do though is run it up high in rpms in third, then 4th, and get the rpms up high then and shift to 5th and most of the time it was just enoguh power to hold the same speed unless there was any real wind or a hill. It also help that I am in the city so I was almost never on my own trying to force my own hole through the wind on the freeway. It was easily liveable but I would never plan on doing that long term. Most of the time I would cruise in 4th though since it was about equivalent to the stock 5th gear being about 3k at 70mph. Now I am on 40s and 5.86s though.



Here it was on the 36s.
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Old 06-12-2003, 02:54 PM   #23 (permalink)
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They go for about $900 for the new ones. The older ones modified to fix a common problem can still be found in some distributors warehouses for around $800.
what's the common problem? I had no idea there was a change, I hope mine is the newer model.
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Old 06-12-2003, 04:37 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I ran 36s and stock gears for the past 10 months. I took offroad trips pretty frequently too. Yeah its not fun on the freeway but it was doable. I could use 5th also sometimes. What I would have to do though is run it up high in rpms in third, then 4th, and get the rpms up high then and shift to 5th and most of the time it was just enoguh power to hold the same speed unless there was any real wind or a hill. It also help that I am in the city so I was almost never on my own trying to force my own hole through the wind on the freeway. It was easily liveable but I would never plan on doing that long term. Most of the time I would cruise in 4th though since it was about equivalent to the stock 5th gear being about 3k at 70mph. Now I am on 40s and 5.86s though.



Here it was on the 36s.
So you have a 2.5, 5.86's and 40's?

Do you think that I can survive half a season on the above mentioned 5.13's and 40's??

Next season 2.5-D300-Klune-5.13-fodees

NOT MY DD!!

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Old 06-12-2003, 06:43 PM   #25 (permalink)
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So you have a 2.5, 5.86's and 40's?

Do you think that I can survive half a season on the above mentioned 5.13's and 40's??

Next season 2.5-D300-Klune-5.13-fodees

NOT MY DD!!

will you be able to survive? probably. Will you like it? not at all lol. Espescially if you need to hit the freeway with it at all, it may be trouble. It will kill your clutch offroad too. Even with my 5.86s it still feels like I need more gear and I haven't been on the freeway yet. My first thought was I should have gone 6.17s lol. But I didn't want to go too high where I would have to regear if I do and engine swap. To be honest though I don't have that much drive time on mine yet though so give me a week or two and I may be able to give soem better feedback on how it is.
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