zuki rotor/nissan caliper/easy rear disk setup (sorry Mo) - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 09-08-2003, 01:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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zuki rotor/nissan caliper/easy rear disk setup (sorry Mo)

well Mo was going to write this up when he did his own but being as i am getting pestered i will tell you how its done.
this is a cheap easy way to put rear disks on yout Jeep (5 on 5.5) for under $150 (new) or near free if done right.

parts list:

2 suzuki samurai front rotors in good shape

2 rear calipers and caliper brackes off an 89 (other years may work) Nissan 300z. they match the rotor thickness for the zuki rotors and have a BUILT IN parking brake they are easy to find/cheap/easy to rebuild.

some 3/8 steel plate

a little time

the calipers will look like this(minus the salt spray) make sure you pull the bracket the calipers are bolted to as it will make life easier.same with the rubber brake hose




next you will need to cut off all the extra drum brake crap as it will be in the way and you dont need it. notice how i left enuf to still work as the bearing retainer



clean all mounting surfaces of rust (turn the rotors also) and side the rotor on the axle. make sure you have long enuf studs. this is on a 20 with superior 1 piece shafts.


next with NEW pads on the caliper mock it up where you want it in relation to the rotor and bearing retainer bolts on the axle. make sure it all aligned corectly on the rotor where it is supposed to be. turn and lock the E-brake tingie to hold it in place. and make a cardboard template in the exact shape you want the mounting plate. after that you will need to make spacers so that the caliper is set correct(left/right) so that it has enuf trave to use all the pads. i had nifty solid ones i made but they were lost and replaced with the nice washers you see here.
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Last edited by usmcdoc14; 05-20-2007 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 09-08-2003, 02:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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also notice if you will the rubber line will screw DIRECTLY on the jeep hard line with NO adapter



yes it is as simple as it looks.

E-brake cable will have to be made longer, i used steel tube and made new cable using wire rope. worked great. the stock e-brake things plugged snug in the cable holder. you can pretty much see how all the shat goes on
you will run into the issue now that your bias will be OFF you can fix this by replaceing the proportioning valve or by using an adjustable one.
i dook an intirely diffrent route and used the master cylinder and proportioning valve of a military (A1) hummer. ( $ free.99) and the bias is perfect.
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Last edited by usmcdoc14; 05-20-2007 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 09-08-2003, 02:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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BADASS!!!! THANKS!
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Old 09-08-2003, 02:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks Doc, and sorry Mo

Good write up. I will start sourcing parts and stop pestering Doc
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Old 09-08-2003, 02:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by sceep
BADASS!!!! THANKS!
and its not like these parts are as hard to find as the elusive caddi calipers you can get new loaded nissan calipers for like 50 bucks each or just find some nice ones at the pick-n-pull
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Old 09-08-2003, 02:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by YJ4RoX
Thanks Doc, and sorry Mo

Good write up. I will start sourcing parts and stop pestering Doc
dude this is what happens when you walk around a junkyard bored with a pair of calipers measuring shit.
i am a cheap bastard and have figured out all sorts of wierd crap but dont have the time to type it out
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Old 09-08-2003, 02:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Sweet.. I think I'm going to have to try these out..



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Old 09-08-2003, 02:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by usmcdoc14


dude this is what happens when you walk around a junkyard bored with a pair of calipers measuring shit.
i am a cheap bastard and have figured out all sorts of wierd crap but dont have the time to type it out
I hear ya, I just wish we had yards that let ya walk around to get a chance to measure shit.

I am also a cheap bastid, great minds think alike right?
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Old 09-08-2003, 05:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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YJ4RoX
When your done let me know how it went. I am about fed up with the drums in the back. I may try some of the yards around here.

I wish I had known about this about a month or so ago my brother had 4 300 ZX's setting at our camp.
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Old 09-08-2003, 06:29 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Can't get cheaper than me
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Old 09-08-2003, 06:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by WillC
Can't get cheaper than me
ok then you tell me a cheaper way to do a 5 on 5.5 rear disk conversion with built in parking brakes(that actualy hold the vehicle unlike caddies) that take an afternoon to do for under 100 dollars


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Old 09-08-2003, 08:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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How long have you been running this setup? Do you have any worries about the bracket breaking? Any problems that you have had so far?
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Old 09-08-2003, 08:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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What's the stopping power of these like vs., say, a properly adjusted 11" drum? Doesn't look like there's alot of surface area there...

granted, the self-cleaning thing might be a nice touch.
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Old 09-08-2003, 08:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i was wondering the same thing. anyone know what diameter they are?
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Old 09-09-2003, 06:16 AM   #15 (permalink)
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i have ran those brackets for 1.5 years of hard driving with no problems(other than the dry rotted seals dieing after a year). grade 8 or metric 8.8 bolts used in the intire setup.
the rotors i believe are 11 or 12 in in diameter (dont have one here) it has and will lock up 35's unlike the drum before. and being i spent a lot of time in sand the self cleaning feature was realy nice
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Old 09-09-2003, 09:07 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Will this work for a D44 rear too? Im a lucky SOB that has an 86 with the D44.
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Old 09-09-2003, 09:26 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scramblah
Will this work for a D44 rear too? Im a lucky SOB that has an 86 with the D44.
it should but you should be able to ditch the enitre drum backing plate as (i believe) that dana 44 (like others) uses a seperate brearing retainer. AMC 20's use the backing plate AS the retainer just make sure that if the backing plate is being used as a spaver that you just save enuf to be used as such.
just make sure the rotor fits over the raised portion of the axle otherwise instalation will be the same
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Old 09-09-2003, 09:39 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Exclamation

Kickass write up... i was looking for a simple set up like this...
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Old 09-09-2003, 11:26 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks alot usmcdoc14. Now I have something to do this weekend.
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Old 09-09-2003, 11:39 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Nice work DOC... Any idea what year Sami rotors are necessary, or does it matter?
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Old 09-09-2003, 06:54 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by WillC
Can't get cheaper than me

I believe that Gil asked you a question... or was that a type-o
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Old 09-10-2003, 05:26 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ChiefSlapaHo



I believe that Gil asked you a question... or was that a type-o
i believe he ment "He" was cheap not that he could do it cheaper
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Old 09-10-2003, 09:28 PM   #23 (permalink)
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So will the E350 master cylinder I'm using work or do I need to get one for rear discs? I read something about a residual valve causing the rear discs to drag with a stock master cylinder.
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Old 09-11-2003, 10:05 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Do you have any pic of the mounting bracket by itself? It looks like it is just bolted to the axle flange.

I'm thinking I might be able to do something similair to my HD20 (6x5.5 lug pattern) using an Isuzu rotor and use the Z car parts for the rest.

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Old 09-12-2003, 05:05 AM   #25 (permalink)
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withamc: you can retain the master but NOT the proportioning valve. there are 2 routes for this 1) bypass the proportioning valve and use adjustable one (s)
2) remove and use a proportioning valve (and master if it will fit) out of a vehicle with 4 wheel disk (where the disk size/wieght ballance is almost the same,close is usualy good) i am using the master out of a military hummer with its proportioning valve. there were a shit load of full size GM vehicles with 4 wheel disk(caddilac/trucks/ect)

BMB yup thats about it it bolts to 2 of the axle flange bolts(next time it will attach to 3 just for additional strength) the bracket is not hard at all to make for any caliper. you could also weld it directly to the tube is the spacing required it. i could take pics but it just looks like a hunk of plate steel cut in the shape of the letter "H"
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