AX15 to D300 clocking ring (Passenger Drop Axle) - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 11-05-2003, 02:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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AX15 to D300 clocking ring (Passenger Drop Axle)

I have a few questions about a setup running a D300 with an AX15.

First of all there is a clocking ring that is made by AA. Is that necessary to clock the D300 5-7* to make it work properly on an AX15 equiped rig that is going to use passenger side drop front 44 from a WAGGY NC??

I also wonder will that clocking ring take up the space on the back of the AX15 where the tail shaft sticks out?? The D300 need a flush mount if I am correct??

Anyone here put at 300 behind an AX15??

No 180 clocking. I am using a passenger drop axle.

Thanks guys.
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Old 11-05-2003, 02:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i have a 300 behind my ax-15. the tail shaft is too lond, so you have 2 choices, cut the shaft or use a spacer. the spacer has to be about 5/8". the clocking ring is req'd the bolts wont line up, plus you will want it clocked, much less room.

what are you putting this in? i had to cut up my floor pretty good for the shifters to fit.
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Old 11-05-2003, 02:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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My roommate has done this same thing.

clocking ring
sealed bearing (downeast offroad sells them)
minor grinding.

He started with the Go2guy clocking ring and the sealed bearing from downeast.

G2G ring was a little too thin so he had to lightly shave the output of the ax-15.

On the d300 you need to lop off the seal and some of the housing thus the sealed bearing.

It was really easy when it came down to it.
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Old 11-05-2003, 03:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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why the bearing? i didnt have to touch mine. just the clocking ring and spacer (wich could be gone by cutting the ax shaft).
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Old 11-05-2003, 03:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I really dunno. He followed what another person he knew that had done it.

It works mint.
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Old 11-05-2003, 04:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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89MJ---

I was wondering about putting a pass. drop into my comanche too. i had wondered if there was adequate space on the pass. side though due to the starter. i imagine you've done the homework on this, otherwards you wouldn't be doing it. let me know what you think, i'd like to do this swap too. thanks, judd
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Old 11-06-2003, 03:57 AM   #7 (permalink)
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A friend of mine just put a 300 in his tj with an ax15. I made him a 5/16 spacer and he done the shaving of the housing and went with a sealed bearing on the input of the dana. I think the only reason he went this way was to "not" cut the output shaft of the ax15 down to accomidate the gap. Works really well and he is running a pass drop diff(dana 60)
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Old 11-06-2003, 06:02 AM   #8 (permalink)
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OK,

Like projects from before when I heard two or three people say yea you can do that... it is so easy... then I bought the items... costly items... and found out that things were not so easy... I am trying to weigh out every possible option here before I splurge on parts.

Some one asked about the starter and drive shaft clearence. The front will be lifted 6" to match SOA in the rear. I believe, unless some one can show me otherwise, that this will allow for plenty of room for the drive shaft to move with full axle articulation up to the bump stop without hitting the starter.

You guys who have actually done this have any pictures?? I have flexed my XJ on ramps and surveyed the situation on it compairing the drive shaft location on the 231 to the location of the starter on the other side and it looks to me that it will clear ok.

I know that people have done this swap so it must be working.
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Old 11-06-2003, 06:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by gnrrpreacher
My roommate has done this same thing.

He started with the Go2guy clocking ring and the sealed bearing from downeast.

That is funny... gotoguy told me that he didnt think it was a great idea to use his ring, shave the shaft a tad, and bolt it up. He made it sound like the ring would not work...



Why does the bearing need to be changed?? They put the same D300's behind the TF727 and TF999 autos in the vintage Jeeps. Why would the AX15 need a sealed bearing D300?? What am I missing here??
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Old 11-06-2003, 06:49 AM   #10 (permalink)
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When you put the SEALED bearing in, you dont need the input seal on the 300, you can shave the bearing retainer and get away with a thin adaptor. Sounds like if you cut the tranny output (a little ?) you can get away with no adaptor, (no clocking either).
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Old 11-06-2003, 07:07 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Clearing the confusion....

I do realize that this can be done as described, but have not done it myself or have a textbook recipe to do it. As AA and blitzed have thicker ring kits available to make it a bolt in I steer customers that way.

By the time you buy brgs, do machine work etc you are likely time and money ahead with one of the bolt in kits. That said, some prefer to tinker and that's cool to if you have the resources to do it.

I'll be happy to sell my ring to anyone who want to tinker with it- just don't get frustrated with me or my product when it's more involved than you thought. I've got guys who buy them and weld to them making my ring one flange of their custom adapter- happy to help where I can.
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Old 11-06-2003, 01:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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dana 300 behind ax-15

I run this setup. I bought the AA adapter from Jesse at high angle. Its very easy to install and works great. The only thing I did was trim the shifter ear off on the transfercase closest to the transmission and bought a twin stick off of ebay. I have no driveline problems. I did have to modify the exhaust and built a custom skidplate to mount it all to. The stock torque arm for the tranny doesnt fit without modification (i havent put mine in yet). My jeep does however have a body lift on it and lots of room. I did not however clock it flat, It would have taken alot more mods. The stock shifter mount is very close to the tranny.

hope this helps.
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Old 11-06-2003, 01:30 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Edit- Ignore what I wrote below- got confused with another thread-sorry

I could be wrong... but I don't think AA's ax15 to 300 kit allows for flipping- unless they custom machine it for you or you use 4 of 6 bolts
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Old 11-06-2003, 01:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Not sure who your reply went to, but the original post stated

Quote:
No 180 clocking. I am using a passenger drop axle.

Im running a passenger side 60 as well.

I do agree that the kit doesnt appear to be setup for flipping though. I thought to flip them took alot more as far shifter linkages and such.
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Old 11-06-2003, 01:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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is this guy asking the same thing?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hreadid=191969
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Old 11-06-2003, 01:44 PM   #16 (permalink)
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mine is set up for pass side drop. i am not sure who made the ring, got em from a guy that worked at a Q-tec. i did need the ring to clock it, and the spacer to not have to cut the shaft. i could have cut the shaft but still would need the clocking ring otherwise it hangs way down. i dont have the front drive shaft in yet, but i have had it mocked up and it wont hit anything. i do need to modify the belly skid a bit.
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Old 11-06-2003, 11:33 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Chris, you got the ring from me and it's one of the ones from CJOffroad.com which have been drawn up and revised by myself, wiltech, and jeepnmatt.
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Old 11-13-2003, 01:09 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Is the off set hole in the CJs ring for flipping the case? I couldnt get mine as flat as I wanted it cause of the off set hole.

BTW I have the CJs ring and spacer.

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Old 11-13-2003, 04:38 PM   #19 (permalink)
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hey Hayden. i know i got it form you, but i didnt rember who made it. worked like a charm.

hows IN been treatin ya?
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Old 11-13-2003, 06:45 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I am also preparing to do this swap on my xj. Having read all the posts I can find on the matter, ..it appears that if you were to machine a clocking ring deeper(thicker?) it would do the trick. Right? How thick would it need to be, to work without cutting, etc? If I get some made, would a market exist? Dave
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Old 11-13-2003, 07:12 PM   #21 (permalink)
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35Xj

I think that Jeepingmatt and the Wlthn.. or what ever his name is already make what you are talking about and it is only $110 for the ring.

Some people on here are already using it. It is a ring that clocks the D300 up about 5 deg or so.

I am not sure if the XJ will require floor trimming or not??

Might have to cut out and box the passenger side floor board. That is no big deal though. My floor has 19 holes already in it that I am patching on saturday with heavy gauge sheet metal.

If you could make the ring cheaper then I would say that there is a market for it. I think that the Narrow Trac 44 axles are becoming very popular for a front D44 swap in. It is only 2 inches wider than the D30.
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Old 11-13-2003, 07:31 PM   #22 (permalink)
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The floor will need to be cut up. Thats what its for. How flat can the 300 go with the cjoffroad ring? I wanna get it as close to flat as possible!
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Old 12-01-2003, 01:04 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I am also tring to get an answer on this. There is an off set hole for some reason and you cant get it flat.



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Old 12-01-2003, 01:44 PM   #24 (permalink)
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you guys are correct that there is an offset hole on the round mounting patterns.


the www.CJoffroad.com ring will clock either a D300 or NP transfer case. there are 10, 20, and 30 increments for the D300 and 10 and 20 for the NP cases.
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Old 12-03-2003, 02:02 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Take a look here and you'll have what you need in no time.

AX15 TO DANA 300
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