cable actuated D30 4x axle switch - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 12-26-2001, 11:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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cable actuated D30 4x axle switch

I already did a search for "vacuum" and there wasn't anything specific enough for me in there.

I know you can do the Posilock system for $200, but I've heard you can use a manual choke cable just as well from a parts store. Does anyone have any pics or detail info on this.

I have an s-10 with a D30 conversion, and I've connected the vacuum while in 4 hi and lo, but the yoke still turns while sitting still. Is this right?? The yoke shouldn't move, right??

I connected the GM vacuum line, but either it doesn't have enough pull, or the diaphram's shot. Also, I see 2 vacuum ports on the jeep axle, but I only have one from the original truck.???? Is one pull and the other push?? Both pull?? Help
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Old 12-27-2001, 07:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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just permanently "engage" it and forget about it...
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Old 12-27-2001, 01:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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http://billyxj.tripod.com/2low/2low.htm
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Old 12-27-2001, 03:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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just bite the bullet and buy the warn full floater conversion. I wheeled with the vacuum thingie and it sucks! When you shut off the engine, the front could come out of 4 wheel drive! No Thanks!
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Old 12-27-2001, 03:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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How do you "permanently engage" it?? I would like to do that to mine till I toss it in the spring.
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Old 12-27-2001, 04:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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a problem with permanently engaging it is if you're locked in the front, turning on the street is very difficult, and even if you're open, your front driveshaft will always spin... potential for more vibrations.

but to permanently engage it, you're going to tear into the little vacuum box thing thats on the axle. When you take the cover off you should be able to see a collar that slides over the two axles that engages the front axle. so maybe weld it??
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Old 12-27-2001, 05:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm not locked in front, and won't be. And since every other part of the front is spinning, I don't think that one more piece is gonna hurt the vibes too much (could be wrong, have been many times before )

Thanks

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Old 12-27-2001, 05:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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All you need to do is open the vacuum box on the tube and pull out any junk in there other than the shift fork. Stack washers or cut a sleve to keep the shift fork permanently engaging the two shafts. If you want do away with the diaphram too (I would) you will need to caulk up the end where it was. Works well and will only cost you a buck...
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Old 12-27-2001, 06:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You were not clear if you are using the stock chevy thermo thing. You mentioned d30 with vaccum, Napa has a t-handle that locks, it's 9 foot long for $23.00, fab this cable to your vaccum or shift fork, tada. Now you can shift in and out of four wheel drive.
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Old 12-27-2001, 06:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by SOXJ
You were not clear if you are using the stock chevy thermo thing. You mentioned d30 with vaccum, Napa has a t-handle that locks, it's 9 foot long for $23.00, fab this cable to your vaccum or shift fork, tada. Now you can shift in and out of four wheel drive.

That work on the YJ d30? Im sure the vacuum is screwed and Im sick of dealing with Jeeps BS. Really wish i could shell out the 200+ for the posilock
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Old 12-27-2001, 07:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Basicly I would've prefered to get it to work like the original s-10 setup, but it seems thats not going to work. I guess I'll cut it open a little and attatch some sort of cable to it. I just want to get it working so I can use it for what I orginally did the swap for!!
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