Project "BDR" 98 tj ls1 full tube chassis fabricated 9s - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 11-18-2016, 10:01 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Project "BDR" 98 tj ls1 full tube chassis fabricated 9s

I have had some interest in my lasted build so I figured I would go ahead and start a build thread.

Specs
Ls1
Th400
Ford 205 twin stick
9" axles
40" treps
14" foa coilover front
16" foa coilover rear
Goatbuilt universal subframe

The chassis is all dom mainly 1 3/4" .120 and .188 for the main frame structure.

I built the 9" housings from scratch out 3 1/2" dom and grade 50 3/16" plate steel.

I have more pics I will add later when I get a chance.

Enjoy
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Old 11-18-2016, 10:03 AM   #2 (permalink)
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in!!!
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Old 11-18-2016, 11:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I I built the jeep with 115" wheel base 19" belly clearence with 6" up travel at ride height. The roof is 6'2" at ride height.
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Old 11-18-2016, 11:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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More pics
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Old 11-18-2016, 11:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I had the the 14 bolts and superduty unit bearings machined to 6 lug from machinist I have known for years. This guy does amazing work and is really reasonably priced.
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Old 11-18-2016, 11:58 AM   #6 (permalink)
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About time... the last 2 builds should have had build threads...
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Old 11-18-2016, 12:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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This is off to a great start. You've got some skill.

I have a question about the front shocks. How wide are they at the axle and the hoops? 37" top, 46" bottom is mine. I wanted to run my top bolt as you are and I cannot keep the upper rod end from binding at full bump when articulated. Shocks are tipped in at 15*. Top bolt perpendicular to frame rail. I'm running a 3 link but it doesn't side shift any more than the rear 4 link. My roll steer is minimal. Maybe .75" oversteer. Far less than the rear however I don't think that's an issue at all. Spent a week goofing off with the hoops. Not sure if I need to lean them out closer to vertical as it seems yours are. That will really screw me up as the shock would go beyond 90* to the axle at bump and not use the last 2"-3" of travel and the other problems associated.

I just can't figure out how folks get away with the perp top bolt. WOD, Trent Fab among a hundred other buggies, crawlers and bouncers run their shocks this way with a plated shock hoop.

Since this is an active build, figured I'd ask your advice. Seems that I should quit hanging up the build over wanting a bolt in this config and turn the sob 90* and move on.
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Old 11-18-2016, 01:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Badass! I've had something like this in mind for my next build, by either building off of the motobilt 4 link, goat built subframe, or come up with something like the WOD Chassis. I love the full body look. Definitely following this one!
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Old 11-18-2016, 01:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I can get you some measurements either this evening or tomorrow on the front mounts.

I feel your pain I spent close to a week getting my rear shocks to clear my rear tires and my bench seat I plan to install. It was a serious pita!
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Old 11-18-2016, 02:05 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I knew I wanted to run 9" axles this time around and had thought about either buying currie or ruff stuff housing. Than the more I got to looking at them they didn't look all that hard to make. So I searched the Internet and happened to find a zip file with the 3rd member bolt spacing. Once I found that my mind was made up. I transfered the zip file into my cad made few tweaks and started cutting out some pieces. I did make a couple of fixtures to keep everything straight while I built them.
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Old 11-18-2016, 03:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Man that damn thing is going to be sweet.


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Old 11-19-2016, 06:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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To get the ride height and wheel travel I needed I ended up making the back half of the tub 2" taller than factory. I also stretched the tub 8" to give the kids some more leg room.
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Old 11-19-2016, 07:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Getting the radiator and the electric fan to clear my front upper link mounts was a serious pain in the ass, but after many hours of frustration I managed to make it work.
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Old 11-19-2016, 07:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Lately I have been working on rebuilding the floor in the back of the jeep.
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Old 11-21-2016, 05:27 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Skills...
Keep the pics coming
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Old 11-21-2016, 08:39 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks for the compliment. Here are some random pictures have taken along the way.
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Old 11-21-2016, 08:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Haha I really suck at uploading pics I guess. Is there anyway I can rotate these? Bear with I am horrible with computers.
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Old 11-22-2016, 06:32 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Great work, looks awesome!
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Old 11-22-2016, 01:26 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Here are some pics I have as a roller.
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Old 11-22-2016, 04:12 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I am looking for some opinions on how I mounted my steering reservoir. I know the way I have it set up is less than ideal but I was curious what you all thought as far as it working right now as is? Do think it will work or not? The reservoir is so dam tall that unless I cut a hole in my hood or find a shorter reservoir it is pretty much my only option. Anybody have any luck with a setup similar to this? I have the ability to shorten up my reservoir and then I could move it closers to the pump but I wonder how that would effect the performance also?
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Old 11-22-2016, 04:48 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepyj2000 View Post
I am looking for some opinions on how I mounted my steering reservoir. I know the way I have it set up is less than ideal but I was curious what you all thought as far as it working right now as is? Do think it will work or not? The reservoir is so dam tall that unless I cut a hole in my hood or find a shorter reservoir it is pretty much my only option. Anybody have any luck with a setup similar to this? I have the ability to shorten up my reservoir and then I could move it closers to the pump but I wonder how that would effect the performance also?
I have mine mounted in almost that same spot on my TJ and it works, but the pump does whine some and I don't think it's the ideal spot for the reservoirs.

Do you have room to mount it like shown in the links below? This is how I did it on my YJ, and I think flow will be much better. It looks like you have room to put it in a similar spot as this between your shock hoop and radiator support brace just in front of the crossbar. It will be closer to the pump, and my thought is that in this position, it will typically be feeding "down" to the pump knowing that most of our crawling/driving is forward and uphill.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...l#post35742961

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...l#post38581498

Nice build by the way. You've done a great job on this thing.

Last edited by DZ Fab; 11-22-2016 at 04:56 PM.
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Old 11-22-2016, 06:58 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Yes it will fit there but the top of the reservoir would be through the hood.
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Old 11-22-2016, 08:22 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Would it be a big deal if I just made the reservoir 11/2" shorter? Would I still have enough fluid capacity? Or does anyone know of lower profile reservoir? The one I have now is 8 3/4" tall.
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Old 11-23-2016, 07:40 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Maybe fab up something like Dave (Brave Motorsports) did here?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/26394769-post59.html
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Old 11-23-2016, 08:42 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepyj2000 View Post
Would it be a big deal if I just made the reservoir 11/2" shorter? Would I still have enough fluid capacity? Or does anyone know of lower profile reservoir? The one I have now is 8 3/4" tall.

Just put this one on the turd and it seems to be working good. Holds 1.8 something liters. I think the PSC holds like 1.3 liters.




Its cheap!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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