White Collar garage build: 1972 YJ8 Unlimited - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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White Collar garage build: 1972 YJ8 Unlimited

This build has been going on for 1 year. Long story short...I've owned this jeep since I was 17 y/o (2000), and I didn't know how to change the oil. It's seen changes and mods since then, and I've learned a lot along the way.
I have a family, and I want to keep it somewhat streetable. My goal is that my wife can hop in the jeep and drive it with ease.

Specs:
1993 Jeep YJ tub extended with another YJ tub, and LJ soft top
CJ7 hood, grill and tailgate
5.2L magnum V8 and auto
np231/HD d300 4:1 doubler
front axle is 609
rear axle 9"
4 link rear/3 link front with mix match of heims and square links
14" fox coilovers
39" red lables, and hopefully find some cheap 40" street tires.

New Year's trip at Hollister 2016 before the tear down.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sold as much as I could to help fund the project. I got an old school CalRocs crawler for free, and sold it. However, I kept the 1972 title. I also bought a CJ7 from some guy, and kept the hood, grill, and tailgate. Sold the rest to fund the build.

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Old 05-17-2017, 09:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I live in suburbia, and I have a 2 car garage. Unfortunately I need to leave room for washing machine/dryer, kids bikes, golf clubs, and lawn mower. Space is tight, so I need everything to be as mobile as possible. I made a mobile chassis table with harbor freight casters.
The amount of grinding was annoying. I even caught my drawers on fire

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Old 05-17-2017, 10:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Here is a pic of my previous crossmember mounts. This was my first time welding. Now you see why my friends call me white collar.

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Old 05-17-2017, 10:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I found a donor tub in Modesto, and brought it home. Measured what I needed, and got to work.
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Old 05-17-2017, 10:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It took a lot of measuring and grinding to get it as close as I could. I knew a guy who had an LJ, so he gave me some measurements. I recall being within 1/8" from his measurements. Time will soon tell how I did. I decided to cut the tub in a way to keep the rear crossmember/gas tank mount from the grafted tub for easy install. I was also able to cut behind the rear crossmember/gas tank mount from my original tub in case I wanted to add extra support.

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Good from far, but far from good.
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This is clear that I'm not a body guy
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Old 05-18-2017, 01:08 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Old 05-18-2017, 06:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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cool man
I shortened my yj it was lot of welding and grinding
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Old 05-18-2017, 09:37 AM   #9 (permalink)
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nice, any frame pictures of the extension?
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Old 05-18-2017, 12:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmj153 View Post
nice, any frame pictures of the extension?
I'll get more pics posted tonight.
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Old 05-18-2017, 02:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Freaking awesome and loving the build! really curious as well on tank placement and the frame as well, so will keep an eye. BTW where did you source the corners from?
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Old 05-18-2017, 05:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Freaking awesome and loving the build! really curious as well on tank placement and the frame as well, so will keep an eye. BTW where did you source the corners from?
What's up Gui. I can't wait when I'm installing your line locks, because that means I'm getting close to being finished.
The corners came from some guy on Pirate in Colorado. They look custom, not from the normal manufacturers. The "King of Bling" was nice enough to pick them up for me. I forget his real name.
I'm running the stock tank in the stock location.
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:21 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I was going to use the frame extensions from kickass offroad, but I didn't want to narrow my frame since I'm running the stock tank. Also, they required a 1" body lift, which I didn't want to do.
I ended up buying a sheet of 1/8" plate to make my own frame extensions. They're fish plated with 1/8" plate on all four sides.
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:24 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Tub went on fairly easy, which was surprising...I didn't have any confidence that it would go back together after all that welding.
20160812_211132 by , on Flickr

Then it was time to put in the motor, trans, tcase.
Original plan was 4.0/aw4/doubler. My jeep was a 2.5L, and that's all I knew so a 4.0L was a huge jump for me. I was going to stroke it out later, since I had all of the parts to do so.
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:41 AM   #15 (permalink)
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This was my first motor install by myself, and building motor mounts. I had some scrap DOM, and bushings from previous builds. Began cutting. The Swag bandsaw table was taken down from the attic after sitting in a box for 4 years...thanks Brad! This thing is great.
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I'm getting better
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Old 05-19-2017, 08:32 AM   #16 (permalink)
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My buddy put in a 5.2L V8 into his cherokee, and once I heard the v8 I knew I had to do it too. Chevy stuff was too expensive for me, so I found a 95+ Grand Cherokee with 130k miles with a blown front end for $350. You can't beat that price. I picked it up, and swapped drivetrains in 1 day, in the rain (thanks Rich).
I used a AA 5.2L motor mount kit for a YJ. It wasn't bolt on, and needed modification but it saved a lot of time. Well worth the $150.

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Old 05-19-2017, 08:37 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Here's the difference between the length of the 4.0L and the 5.2L. Use the cut off shock hoop mount on the frame as a reference point.
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Old 05-19-2017, 08:41 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I used the stock transmission crossmember, and built from there. I wanted the bushing to be immediately below the transmission, not along the frame rails. However, I wanted a flat belly. Space was tight, but I was able to make it work.
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:55 AM   #19 (permalink)
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in for up dates!
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Old 05-19-2017, 06:10 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I should be able to update tonight. Right now it's family and friends with a drink to numb the week of BS.
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:16 PM   #21 (permalink)
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After the drivetrain in place, it's time to tackle suspension. Front 3 link would've been the natural choice, but the rear 4 link was easier and I needed to learn. It was a lot of measuring, cutting, grinding and welding.
I didn't realize how much brackets were, so I made all of them. 20170220_143452 by , on Flickr
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Old 05-20-2017, 07:10 PM   #22 (permalink)
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My goal was to gain as much uptravel as possible without disrupting the seating area. The fenders were/are fair game, as long as the brackets are below the height of the tub rails.
I put the frame at ride height, so I knew my geometry where it matters most.
Initially I had 5" of uptravel. Cutting the floor to clear the upper links would give me another 1-2" of uptravel, and wouldn't effect seating. So I cut out the floor to give me extra clearance. I also had to cut the frame for the lowers to clear at full bump.
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Old 05-20-2017, 07:13 PM   #23 (permalink)
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This is how much tub I removed to clear the uppers for more uptravel. This wasn't supposed to be, and still isn't, a LCOG build. Besides, I think a lot of people "fluff" their numbers to impress the web wheelers.
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Old 05-20-2017, 07:17 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Next was to cycle the suspension to check binding, and tire clearance. I made a DIY 39" sticky to help with checking clearance.
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Old 05-20-2017, 07:20 PM   #25 (permalink)
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That made things a lot faster, so I could bend the cardboard and grind the fenders. Next was putting the 39's on there. I made extra room for a larger tire (I expect to run 40's for street driving).
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