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Old 06-16-2004, 06:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Lightbulb 2.5 --> nv 3550

Since YJ4ROX initiated a thread about swapping a ax-15 behind a 2.5, I decided to go the other route and put a nv3550 behind mine. Swap was pretty straight forward once all the part were collected. I used some info from the thread /forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/181361-2-5l-ax15-swap-update.html, and used a bellhousing from a dakota, clutch from an '84 camaro (4 speed). I contacted AA and they had what I needed to convert the clutch, first off, cnversion pilot bushing for 2.5 to nv4500 p/n 71617(3550 and 4500 have same input shaft diameter), conversion hose p/n 716130H,fittings 716130F & 716130TJ. I also got a t-case shifter adapter for the 231 p/n 715545and a skid plate adapter p/n 716007( which could easily be fabbed if retaining the stock skid) Found affordable slave cylinder from q-tec http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sgi...04061620270978, and went to my local auto store for release bearing '01 tj. I hit up the jeep dealership for the clutch fork p/n 52107555, retainer clip p/n 4338855, for a tj. With the engine out for a rebuild this was the most opportune time for the swap.... pics to follow
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Old 06-16-2004, 06:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Where did ya find the 3550, and how much? Been sort of half assed looking around and havnt seen one on line with low milage for under $900. I'd prefer the 3550, but have considered the ax15 due to price.
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Old 06-16-2004, 07:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i just got a 98 tj with a 4 banger,what standard tranny comes in them?i plan on building this with around 37in.tires will the stock tranny hold?or do i need to swap out also.i am new to jeeps so these are kinda stupid questions,but i learning...
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Old 06-16-2004, 07:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I found the tranny at chrysler heaven, in ft. worth, tx.. 817.834.1711,, give them a shout,
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Old 06-16-2004, 09:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the parts list. I've sorta started collecting parts for mine, waiting for a screaming deal on a tranny to popup before I begin collecting in earnest. Were you able to reuse your existing clutch master cylinder? That's about the only part I didn't notice in your list.
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Old 06-17-2004, 01:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yep, I reused the master, it works like a charm.
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Old 06-18-2004, 09:29 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Why is the camaro clutch needed? Would the dakota clutch, pressure plate, throwout, pilot not work?
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Old 06-18-2004, 04:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Bill Collins
i just got a 98 tj with a 4 banger,what standard tranny comes in them?i plan on building this with around 37in.tires will the stock tranny hold?or do i need to swap out also.i am new to jeeps so these are kinda stupid questions,but i learning...
Four banger trannies suck, period. They can barely hold up to the four cylinder's "power". I can't remember the changeover date, but I believe Wranglers with 4 cylinders up till around 2000 have Aisin AX-5's and Wranglers after have NV1550 (Another marginal tranny). My AX-5 blew out 1st, 2nd, and 4th gear a day after I bought it. The rig had some tiny ass 27" tires and only ~50,000 miles on the clock.

However, if it's giving you trouble now, don't worry about it, but if it blows, don't bother fixing it, swap up to another tranny like an NV3550/4500, SM420, NP435, etc.
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Old 06-19-2004, 05:53 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Why is the camaro clutch needed
the camaro clutch is just about the same size as the 4cyl yj, about a 1/16th bigger, and you need 10 spline for the tranny..
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Old 06-20-2004, 04:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kidwithayj
Four banger trannies suck, period. They can barely hold up to the four cylinder's "power". I can't remember the changeover date, but I believe Wranglers with 4 cylinders up till around 2000 have Aisin AX-5's and Wranglers after have NV1550 (Another marginal tranny). My AX-5 blew out 1st, 2nd, and 4th gear a day after I bought it. The rig had some tiny ass 27" tires and only ~50,000 miles on the clock.

However, if it's giving you trouble now, don't worry about it, but if it blows, don't bother fixing it, swap up to another tranny like an NV3550/4500, SM420, NP435, etc.
thanks kid,i want to swap in a 4.3 and auto any way.with at least dana 44 front and rear.but i kinda was thinking about keeping the 4 banger since it will be a trail only rig.and may be cheaper to swap a tranny and good t-case in behind it...
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Old 06-20-2004, 08:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I enjoyed my NV3550. So much more of an improvemnt over the crappy AX trannies. I picked mine up for free, so it made it even sweeter. I was working at the dealership, and chrysler ordered it "scrapped" instead of it having to be sent back for warrenty. Of course, nothing was wrong with it, and just so happened my AX-15 locked up......
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Old 07-20-2004, 10:29 AM   #12 (permalink)
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What about the reverse switch

Did anyone here figure out how to get the reverse switch wired up? Without any "Redneck" engineering? The plug from my harness is female, and so is the one on the tranny.
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Old 07-22-2004, 02:25 AM   #13 (permalink)
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bwlinux,

Yeah, there is a real easy non "redneck" way to re-wire the backup switch. I'm just about to wrap mine up using ROCdogs method and I just tackled that one. It seems like my 90 harness is long enough with no length mods were needed, so here is what I did. Grab two NAPA connector pins, PN 725170 ($1.18). Take the old plug that is on your wiring harness and drive out the barrel style pins (from the "front" of the connector to the back, being sure to pull up the plastic lock down clamp first) on the stock harness connector. There is a small silicone plug that holds each pin in place, and once you get them out you can see what you need to do to put the new pins in place. The above pn's should work with the 3550 stock style backup switch just fine.

BTW- Be very careful with your tcase vacuum lines, they are a real pain when you have to re-splice them close to the harness plug. Now that was my bit of "whoops!" that required some redneck engineering, but otherwise things have gone fairly smooth so far using this method. Yeah, watch out for the wild man with a sawsall when he's PO'd at a rusted out clamp on the exhaust at 2 AM after getting started Friday night after a long hard days work!
I'll update further when I get my new d-shafts (needed new ones anyway and I also added an SYE while I was at this) and actually get to drive my jeep again!


Hope that helps.


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Old 07-26-2004, 11:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks Ryan, I'll visit my local NAPA later this week.

Right now I'm faced with a more pressing problem. With the clucth pedal pressed down to the floor it's not fully disengaging. There still seems to be enough drag somewhere to keep the input shaft spinning. Needless to say it makes shifting into first or reverse a bit difficult. The rest of the gears are easy if you are moving.

I'm getting really good at pulling/stabbing the tranny by myself.

When I put the 84 camaro clutch next to the stock clutch I noticed it's a little bit taller. I'm wondering if it's not dragging somewhere and causing the clutch to not fully disengage. I'm assuming everyone's been using a stock pressure plate with this conversion. Of course, it's odd that I have to let the pedal out 3/4 of the way before the clutch really catches and makes the jeep go forward.

Thoughts, comments, suggestions, W.A.G.s welcomed.
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Old 07-27-2004, 08:01 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwlinux
Thanks Ryan, I'll visit my local NAPA later this week.

Right now I'm faced with a more pressing problem. With the clucth pedal pressed down to the floor it's not fully disengaging. There still seems to be enough drag somewhere to keep the input shaft spinning. Needless to say it makes shifting into first or reverse a bit difficult. The rest of the gears are easy if you are moving.

I'm getting really good at pulling/stabbing the tranny by myself.

When I put the 84 camaro clutch next to the stock clutch I noticed it's a little bit taller. I'm wondering if it's not dragging somewhere and causing the clutch to not fully disengage. I'm assuming everyone's been using a stock pressure plate with this conversion. Of course, it's odd that I have to let the pedal out 3/4 of the way before the clutch really catches and makes the jeep go forward.

Thoughts, comments, suggestions, W.A.G.s welcomed.
Sounds like maybe you need to adjust the actuater on the master cylinder. The clutch pedal has an adjustable linkage on the actuater.

Last edited by Recurve; 07-27-2004 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 07-27-2004, 08:18 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Sounds like maybe you need to adjust the actuater on the master cylinder. The clutch pedal has an adjustable linkage on the actuater.
You think I need more travel out of the slave?

Where's this adjustment? I check under the dash and the actuator fastens to the pebal with a cotter pin. There doesn't appear to be any adjustment there.
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Old 07-27-2004, 02:23 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Is the actuator not threaded with a jam nut on it? I don't have any manuals left or I'd go look. From the pictures in the FSM looks like a heim/tre looking thing screws in the actuator and hooks to a pivot pin on the clutch pedal. You would screw this thing in and out to tune the engagement like you want it. My experience with them is that there is a "perfect spot" that fully disengages the clutch (no grinding) and makes the pedal smooth and easy on the leg with a long engagement throughout the throw of the pedal.

Last edited by Recurve; 07-27-2004 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 07-27-2004, 02:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Thanks Recurve. It looks like my O'Reilly part may have a deeper hub to it causing the binding to occur. I'm going to tear everything a part in a bit to confirm my suspicion.

I'll definitely report my findings.
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Old 07-28-2004, 09:41 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Well, I measured everything last night and there's definitely no binding of the slightly thicker spline hub.

I also completely checked the master cylinder for any adjustments by removing it from the vehicle. The 95 model doesn't have any adjustment at all.

I'm inclined to think maybe it's time to replace the slave cylinder. One is on the way.
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Old 08-07-2004, 08:57 AM   #20 (permalink)
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It's finally working! The problem had to do with the clearance of the new p-plate and the camaro clutch disc.

Here are the parts that I used for my particular '95 swap.
NV3550 - From High-Impact
Dodge Bellhousing - From High-Impact
Pilot bushing - AA P/N 716167
'84 Camaro Clutch - O'reilly Auto p/n CP4198
'95 throw-out bearing

Kept the following:
Stock slave & master cylinder
* No need to lengthen the push rod in the slave
Original stock pressure plate
Orignal stock clutch fork

resurfaced flywheel - didn't seem to hurt.


That's just what I used.
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Old 08-07-2004, 02:38 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidwithayj
Four banger trannies suck, period. They can barely hold up to the four cylinder's "power". I can't remember the changeover date, but I believe Wranglers with 4 cylinders up till around 2000 have Aisin AX-5's and Wranglers after have NV1550 (Another marginal tranny). My AX-5 blew out 1st, 2nd, and 4th gear a day after I bought it. The rig had some tiny ass 27" tires and only ~50,000 miles on the clock.

However, if it's giving you trouble now, don't worry about it, but if it blows, don't bother fixing it, swap up to another tranny like an NV3550/4500, SM420, NP435, etc.

Maybe I have had good luck but I have 40" MTRs on my 4 banger TJ and I haven't had any trans problems so far. I beat on it pretty good too.

Also they had AX5s till 2002. They didn't go to NV1500s till they went to the 2.4 liter motor as far as I know.
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Old 08-08-2004, 01:08 PM   #22 (permalink)
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a few question

was thinking about this swap myself, how much longer than the ax5 is the 3550. also did you have to change the imput gear on the tranfer case, where did you get it and how much are they


thanks

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Old 08-08-2004, 03:47 PM   #23 (permalink)
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was thinking about this swap myself, how much longer than the ax5 is the 3550. also did you have to change the imput gear on the tranfer case, where did you get it and how much are they
stephen
The combination of the bellhousing and tranny is about an inch longer. I was doing a lot of other things like an SYE and SOA at the same time so I just ordered a new drive shaft in the process.

YES, you will need to change the input gear on the NP231 if you have the AX-5. The AX-15 and NV3550 use the 23 spline input on the TC. Since you have to tear down the tc, this is a perfect time to switch to an SYE. You have the thing torn completely apart.

I got most of my parts from high-impact.net but with the info on PBB, you can probably source most of the parts yourself and save a few $$. Some things will have to come from Advance Adapters like the bushing but that's not too expensive. AA also has the 23 spline input for the tc. If you are lucky, you can find a TC that mates up to the AX-15. Then you can just bolt that up.
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Old 08-12-2004, 04:19 PM   #24 (permalink)
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also does the shifter from the ax5 fit the 3550, or will i have to get a shifter with the 3550
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Old 08-12-2004, 07:34 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DetR6oit
Maybe I have had good luck but I have 40" MTRs on my 4 banger TJ and I haven't had any trans problems so far. I beat on it pretty good too.

Also they had AX5s till 2002. They didn't go to NV1500s till they went to the 2.4 liter motor as far as I know.

Ditto with 36"s and 50K miles on the clock.

The only valid complaint I know of is the stupid way 5th gear was added, this results in OD failures but really I have been in OD in years.
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