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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Member # 23635
Location: north shore,ma.
Posts: 33
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Since YJ4ROX initiated a thread about swapping a ax-15 behind a 2.5, I decided to go the other route and put a nv3550 behind mine. Swap was pretty straight forward once all the part were collected. I used some info from the thread /forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/181361-2-5l-ax15-swap-update.html, and used a bellhousing from a dakota, clutch from an '84 camaro (4 speed). I contacted AA and they had what I needed to convert the clutch, first off, cnversion pilot bushing for 2.5 to nv4500 p/n 71617(3550 and 4500 have same input shaft diameter), conversion hose p/n 716130H,fittings 716130F & 716130TJ. I also got a t-case shifter adapter for the 231 p/n 715545and a skid plate adapter p/n 716007( which could easily be fabbed if retaining the stock skid) Found affordable slave cylinder from q-tec http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sgi...04061620270978, and went to my local auto store for release bearing '01 tj. I hit up the jeep dealership for the clutch fork p/n 52107555, retainer clip p/n 4338855, for a tj. With the engine out for a rebuild this was the most opportune time for the swap.... pics to follow
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'88yj/soa/35s/arbs/44/hdM20 |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Doublewide engineer
Join Date: Sep 2001
Member # 6971
Location: Gulf coast
Posts: 5,904
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Where did ya find the 3550, and how much? Been sort of half assed looking around and havnt seen one on line with low milage for under $900. I'd prefer the 3550, but have considered the ax15 due to price.
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I'm the "tack tack tack" welding nazi. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showp...&postcount=218 ![]() "I didn't mean to kill nobody ... I just meant to shoot the sonofabitch in the head. Him dying was between him and the Lord." R. L. Burnside |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 163
Location: Village Mills, TX 77663
Posts: 2,629
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i just got a 98 tj with a 4 banger,what standard tranny comes in them?i plan on building this with around 37in.tires will the stock tranny hold?or do i need to swap out also.i am new to jeeps so these are kinda stupid questions,but i learning...
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85 runner with some stuff... |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the parts list. I've sorta started collecting parts for mine, waiting for a screaming deal on a tranny to popup before I begin collecting in earnest. Were you able to reuse your existing clutch master cylinder? That's about the only part I didn't notice in your list.
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'93 YJ 4Banger |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20216
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 360
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Why is the camaro clutch needed? Would the dakota clutch, pressure plate, throwout, pilot not work?
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Member # 24796
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Posts: 36
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Quote:
However, if it's giving you trouble now, don't worry about it, but if it blows, don't bother fixing it, swap up to another tranny like an NV3550/4500, SM420, NP435, etc.
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1995 YJ and a garage full of parts. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Member # 23635
Location: north shore,ma.
Posts: 33
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PHP Code:
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'88yj/soa/35s/arbs/44/hdM20 |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 163
Location: Village Mills, TX 77663
Posts: 2,629
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Quote:
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85 runner with some stuff... |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Member # 26405
Location: Elizabeth shitty, NC
Posts: 184
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I enjoyed my NV3550. So much more of an improvemnt over the crappy AX trannies. I picked mine up for free, so it made it even sweeter. I was working at the dealership, and chrysler ordered it "scrapped" instead of it having to be sent back for warrenty. Of course, nothing was wrong with it, and just so happened my AX-15 locked up......
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Member # 33255
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 18
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What about the reverse switch
Did anyone here figure out how to get the reverse switch wired up? Without any "Redneck" engineering? The plug from my harness is female, and so is the one on the tranny.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Member # 31483
Posts: 7
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bwlinux,
Yeah, there is a real easy non "redneck" way to re-wire the backup switch. I'm just about to wrap mine up using ROCdogs method and I just tackled that one. It seems like my 90 harness is long enough with no length mods were needed, so here is what I did. Grab two NAPA connector pins, PN 725170 ($1.18). Take the old plug that is on your wiring harness and drive out the barrel style pins (from the "front" of the connector to the back, being sure to pull up the plastic lock down clamp first) on the stock harness connector. There is a small silicone plug that holds each pin in place, and once you get them out you can see what you need to do to put the new pins in place. The above pn's should work with the 3550 stock style backup switch just fine. BTW- Be very careful with your tcase vacuum lines, they are a real pain when you have to re-splice them close to the harness plug. Now that was my bit of "whoops!" that required some redneck engineering, but otherwise things have gone fairly smooth so far using this method. Yeah, watch out for the wild man with a sawsall when he's PO'd at a rusted out clamp on the exhaust at 2 AM after getting started Friday night after a long hard days work! I'll update further when I get my new d-shafts (needed new ones anyway and I also added an SYE while I was at this) and actually get to drive my jeep again! Hope that helps. Ryan |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Member # 33255
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 18
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Thanks Ryan, I'll visit my local NAPA later this week.
Right now I'm faced with a more pressing problem. With the clucth pedal pressed down to the floor it's not fully disengaging. There still seems to be enough drag somewhere to keep the input shaft spinning. Needless to say it makes shifting into first or reverse a bit difficult. The rest of the gears are easy if you are moving. I'm getting really good at pulling/stabbing the tranny by myself. When I put the 84 camaro clutch next to the stock clutch I noticed it's a little bit taller. I'm wondering if it's not dragging somewhere and causing the clutch to not fully disengage. I'm assuming everyone's been using a stock pressure plate with this conversion. Of course, it's odd that I have to let the pedal out 3/4 of the way before the clutch really catches and makes the jeep go forward. Thoughts, comments, suggestions, W.A.G.s welcomed.
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Brian =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= 95 YJ / 33's / SOA / NV3550 / 4cy / M.O.R.E. Steering |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Last edited by Recurve; 07-27-2004 at 07:02 AM. |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Member # 33255
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Where's this adjustment? I check under the dash and the actuator fastens to the pebal with a cotter pin. There doesn't appear to be any adjustment there.
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Brian =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= 95 YJ / 33's / SOA / NV3550 / 4cy / M.O.R.E. Steering |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Is the actuator not threaded with a jam nut on it? I don't have any manuals left or I'd go look. From the pictures in the FSM looks like a heim/tre looking thing screws in the actuator and hooks to a pivot pin on the clutch pedal. You would screw this thing in and out to tune the engagement like you want it. My experience with them is that there is a "perfect spot" that fully disengages the clutch (no grinding) and makes the pedal smooth and easy on the leg with a long engagement throughout the throw of the pedal.
Last edited by Recurve; 07-27-2004 at 01:27 PM. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Member # 33255
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 18
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Thanks Recurve. It looks like my O'Reilly part may have a deeper hub to it causing the binding to occur. I'm going to tear everything a part in a bit to confirm my suspicion.
I'll definitely report my findings.
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Brian =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= 95 YJ / 33's / SOA / NV3550 / 4cy / M.O.R.E. Steering |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Member # 33255
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 18
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Well, I measured everything last night and there's definitely no binding of the slightly thicker spline hub.
I also completely checked the master cylinder for any adjustments by removing it from the vehicle. The 95 model doesn't have any adjustment at all. I'm inclined to think maybe it's time to replace the slave cylinder. One is on the way.
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Brian =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= 95 YJ / 33's / SOA / NV3550 / 4cy / M.O.R.E. Steering |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Member # 33255
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 18
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It's finally working! The problem had to do with the clearance of the new p-plate and the camaro clutch disc.
Here are the parts that I used for my particular '95 swap. NV3550 - From High-Impact Dodge Bellhousing - From High-Impact Pilot bushing - AA P/N 716167 '84 Camaro Clutch - O'reilly Auto p/n CP4198 '95 throw-out bearing Kept the following: Stock slave & master cylinder * No need to lengthen the push rod in the slave Original stock pressure plate Orignal stock clutch fork resurfaced flywheel - didn't seem to hurt. That's just what I used.
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Brian =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= 95 YJ / 33's / SOA / NV3550 / 4cy / M.O.R.E. Steering |
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#21 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Member # 12071
Location: Warren, MI
Posts: 405
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Quote:
Maybe I have had good luck but I have 40" MTRs on my 4 banger TJ and I haven't had any trans problems so far. I beat on it pretty good too. Also they had AX5s till 2002. They didn't go to NV1500s till they went to the 2.4 liter motor as far as I know.
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Matt misfitoffroad.com |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Member # 34127
Posts: 2
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a few question
was thinking about this swap myself, how much longer than the ax5 is the 3550. also did you have to change the imput gear on the tranfer case, where did you get it and how much are they
thanks stephen |
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#23 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Member # 33255
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 18
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Quote:
YES, you will need to change the input gear on the NP231 if you have the AX-5. The AX-15 and NV3550 use the 23 spline input on the TC. Since you have to tear down the tc, this is a perfect time to switch to an SYE. You have the thing torn completely apart. I got most of my parts from high-impact.net but with the info on PBB, you can probably source most of the parts yourself and save a few $$. Some things will have to come from Advance Adapters like the bushing but that's not too expensive. AA also has the 23 spline input for the tc. If you are lucky, you can find a TC that mates up to the AX-15. Then you can just bolt that up.
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Brian =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= 95 YJ / 33's / SOA / NV3550 / 4cy / M.O.R.E. Steering |
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#25 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Ditto with 36"s and 50K miles on the clock. The only valid complaint I know of is the stupid way 5th gear was added, this results in OD failures but really I have been in OD in years.
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Screw you guys I'm going home. |
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