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Old 07-09-2004, 04:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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FSJ Dovetail

I posted this in the Newbie Tech but got very little help. I've yet to see a good dovetail job on an FSJ. I have a 75 Cherokee and I'm going to chop the top and dovetail mine. I have searched and seen where two pie shaped cuts are needed to perform this in it's simpleast form (I'm assuming). What is the standard cut in inches that are made to each base of the triangle or pie piece? Is this all there is or is there something I'm leaving out? Thanks
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Old 07-09-2004, 05:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Try www.ifsja.org...they're all FSJs over there...but I don't think I've ever heard of anyone doing it nor have I seen it.
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Old 07-09-2004, 05:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yeah thanks , I'm trying to keep it under wraps for now and this is the best place i know to get good info.
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Old 07-09-2004, 05:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Haha...yeah, watchout. Many over there are very ardent FSJers and modification is blasphemy to them!!

Either way, I'd like to see pics when you're done.
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Old 07-09-2004, 05:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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No such thing as a "standard" dovetail for a FSJ, AFAIK.. Just get out your tape measure, pencil and paper and sawzall.... Measure (twice) calculate (carefully) and cut.
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Old 07-09-2004, 08:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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And don't forget to post lots of pics
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Old 07-10-2004, 12:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Here's a little more information... The top will be gone except for right over the seats. It will look much like John Cappa's panel wagon in JP. This leaves the rear to look much like a regular truck bed. How deep should I cut the triangles? Is it just necesary for a small piece (2'-3') or does it need to extend further towards the cab (4'-6')?
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Old 07-10-2004, 01:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'd say cut as much as you can without effecting any structural portions of the body and/or frame that you can't easily reinforce.
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Old 07-10-2004, 05:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I was going to try and dovetail the rearend of mine but in the end decided it was just too damn heavy and scrapped most of the body. I am a member of IFSJA, and 95% of them wouldn't chop up a FSJ like I did or you plan to, however....I have seen one person that dovetailed the rearend of one after he chopped the top...but, it looked like crap. I don't remember his name although you may be able to find it there using the search. What is your plans for a cage once you chop the top? Here is a couple pics of mine shortly after the paint on the tubing dried...


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Old 07-10-2004, 08:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I haven't doen a FSJ, but I did my CJ, same concept once you chop the top off.

Make sure that you cut evenly on BOTH sides. If you can make a cardboard template, it would be best. I did relief cuts where there were lips, like on the corners so I could open up the bend to make the cuts meet. I don't know how much welding on sheet metal you have done, but be sure to have a piece of something on the backside to keep from blasting thru the metal with your welding aparatus. I'll go search for the thread that I started when I did mine.
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Old 07-10-2004, 09:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...68#post2712368
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Old 07-11-2004, 09:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks guys for the info.

Rockcandy, I am a member over at IFSJA and I think you know who I am. I remember the guy too. His name was something like NCXJblah blah blah and it did look like hammered ass. I want this to be nice and I'll research the shit out of it until I feel confident the job will turn out good results.

HybridPOS, thanks. I found that article while searching the site. It gave me some good ideas. It might be awhile before this all goes down but I'll be sure to post up.
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Old 07-12-2004, 09:10 AM   #13 (permalink)
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well whatever you do dont paint the fawker orange!!
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Old 07-12-2004, 05:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RR75typeO
His name was something like NCXJblah blah blah and it did look like hammered ass.


Close on the name

It did look like crap as the rig was too wasted to do what I wanted. I think the original idea was sound though. My biggest issue was that I wanted it short but had a four door to work with. I think starting with a two door that isn't anywhere near as rusty will be a good route. Pretty sure that's what you have

Mine looked better after I finished the bobbed frame. Frame rails sticking two feet out the back was pretty nasty. In the end, I cut it up anyway. Oh yeah, my 2 cents would be to coil it immediately. With the position of the FSJ motor, there isn't ANY weight over the ass end when you cut them.
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Old 07-12-2004, 07:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Im one of the 5% that likes to hack up my FSJ, as some of you have seen.
Mines not really dovetailed, but it might give you some ideas?
I really am in the process of cutting more than half the flatbed off right above the axle,
as I too am coiling the rear.





I cut my crap right to the frame, and then went from there,
but with some preplanning, you could really get creative. Dennis
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Old 07-13-2004, 09:05 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nxcj


Close on the name

It did look like crap as the rig was too wasted to do what I wanted. I think the original idea was sound though. My biggest issue was that I wanted it short but had a four door to work with. I think starting with a two door that isn't anywhere near as rusty will be a good route. Pretty sure that's what you have

Mine looked better after I finished the bobbed frame. Frame rails sticking two feet out the back was pretty nasty. In the end, I cut it up anyway. Oh yeah, my 2 cents would be to coil it immediately. With the position of the FSJ motor, there isn't ANY weight over the ass end when you cut them.

It would have been much more difficult trying to do this to a 4 door. I think the thing that really bothered me about your rig was the frame sticking out past the body. I would have liked to see a pic after you bobbed the frame though. got any??
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Old 07-13-2004, 11:40 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I'll see if I can hunt a pic down. I essentially cut the frame right behind the rear shock mounts, then built a new subframe from 2x4 1/4" wall. It ended up with 10" sticking out, which was livable.

My biggest issue was having to remove the rear 1/4 and the try to attach it to the B pillar door post. With a two door, you should be able to leave the 1/4 panel attached a perform a more "typical" (if there is such a thing) boat tail.
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Old 07-13-2004, 04:07 PM   #18 (permalink)
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yeah sorry about that NXCJ. you're the only other i've seen that has tried to do this. i'd appreciate any helpful tips you encountered while doing it.
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Old 07-14-2004, 09:59 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I think it's fairly simple, besides the labor. In my four door, I had to reattach the 1/4 and therefor had a gap below it because of the wheel opening being placed where the door previously was located. To add to the issue, I had NO floor below the rear seats; and this is right where the rear floor steps up, so it was that much worse. The lack of any closure of the body at the rear of the front seats added to the downfall of the look.

With the two door, I figure that you can start the bend for the boat tail about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way through the wheel opening. Therefor you are only dealing with the rear portion of the floor (higher portion), and the wheel opening will still function close to normal. So, basically, I'd start cutting the angle in the floor pan about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way through the wheel well. The only issue is if you want to "bob" (shorten) the 1/4 panels as well; then you'll have to section them and place some nice spot welds, so as not to warp them too much.

Good luck! Can't wait to see it when you're finished!!

Last edited by nxcj; 07-14-2004 at 10:01 PM.
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