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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20214
Location: Rockport, TX
Posts: 119
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Frame work and coating
Did the obligatory search...found only one thread that even closely hit on this.
I have my 80 CJ7 down to rolling chassis and I am about to blast it with my new power washer (2000psi). Once I do that, I am kinda torn between what to do next...well...after I fix the fawkin rust hole over the rear D/S spring hanger. The DSPO decided to cut it with a torch to install a fawkin tow hook right there...then the SOB forgot to fix the torch scars and properly paint over it. Need opinions here...POR-15 or Hammerite? I am kinda leaning to Hammerite because I can get it locally at a decent price. Can I just coat Hammerite over the old chassis paint or do I need to get the frame down to bare metal first? Is Hammerite the best stuff to use for this or should I bite the bullet and get the POR-15? I live on the immediate coast of South Texas and we all know that saltwater+metal+laziness=rust. TIA!!!
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SOA 1980 CJ-7, bigass engine with EFI, ported/polished heads, and racing ignition, stout driveline, crappy rear axle, still under construction Next mods: 9" Ford rear with 4.10's and something better than the D30 front axle Soon to be South Texas' fastest damned sand runner |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Member # 9988
Location: South of Heaven
Posts: 786
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I would use a real chassis paint. So the hammerite is out...POR-15 is good but to get really good results with it you need to get all their prep stuff. Chassis Saver is something that rust belt states' DOT uses on their trucks. I have seen good and bad results...you must follow the manufacturer specs to the letter to get good adhesion. Lastly, the rust encapsolator and paint from Eastwood Co are good as well. Don't know much about it but I haven't run into a bad product from eastwood yet.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Member # 13028
Location: So.S.F., CA
Posts: 3,124
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Quote:
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I may lack much in way of integrety but I make up for it with pure denial. [URL=http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=377480][B][COLOR="Red"]Malvado Grande #1[/COLOR][/B][/URL] |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20214
Location: Rockport, TX
Posts: 119
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Good stuff gents. So the Hammerite is not the best choice after all. Where would I get that Chassis Saver stuff? I had already planned to coat the inside of the frame. I started blasting the frame down today with my pawn-shop special power washer. Then the fawking thing crapped out. It ate a damned bearing. Not to worry, though. I'll have it fixed by Monday and I'll get this thing finished. I just gotta figure out how to get the rust out of the inside of the frame rails.
Thanks for the ideas guys! Beers to all!
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SOA 1980 CJ-7, bigass engine with EFI, ported/polished heads, and racing ignition, stout driveline, crappy rear axle, still under construction Next mods: 9" Ford rear with 4.10's and something better than the D30 front axle Soon to be South Texas' fastest damned sand runner |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Member # 9988
Location: South of Heaven
Posts: 786
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Try these guys:
Big 3 Auto Supply 2420 W. Avenue M Temple, TX 76504 254-778-5223 Gordon Winkler Affordable Auto Color 9800 Gray Blvd Austin, TX 78758 512-339-8447 Chad Francis
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Building tools that create the 4th state of matter. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20214
Location: Rockport, TX
Posts: 119
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Thanks Goat! I could just make a pit stop in Austin the next time I go up there...and it may be in a couple of weeks.
__________________
SOA 1980 CJ-7, bigass engine with EFI, ported/polished heads, and racing ignition, stout driveline, crappy rear axle, still under construction Next mods: 9" Ford rear with 4.10's and something better than the D30 front axle Soon to be South Texas' fastest damned sand runner |
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