Traction Bar on SOA YJ-- Does it matter which side?? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 03-01-2005, 02:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Traction Bar on SOA YJ-- Does it matter which side??

Seems like a stupid question, but a pretty experienced wheeler/ owner of a local 4x4 shop said that mounting the traction bar (ladder type such as one from Sam's or MORE) on the driver side caused some wierd handling on and off road. I'm talking about the rear Traction bar.

To run mine on the passenger side I will have to reroute my exhaust.

Anybody running their traction bar on the driver side?

I'm SOA on 1.5 RE SOA springs and 37" MTRs.
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Old 03-01-2005, 02:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i run mine on the driver side with no issues and 38.5" SX's
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Old 03-01-2005, 02:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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drivers side traction bar, dana 60 rear, soa, 37 mtrs... No problems.
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Old 03-01-2005, 03:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I run mine on the drivers side, before and after the sbc/th350/d300 swap.

It's kind of in the way of the exhaust now, but not much.

The only thing you notice with the SBC, is that in low range, when you put it in gear and hold the break, the entire suspension loads up on the side the bar is on.

So right now the passanger side front end pitches down a bit.. its kinda cool

Might just be the engine torque on the motormounts?
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Old 03-01-2005, 03:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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passanger side is prefered because it will help counter act engine torque but drivers side shouldnt really be an issue... you will just notice more jacking then if it was on the passanger side.
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Old 03-01-2005, 03:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Center mounted - No binding, eliminates wheel hop and axle wrap.

Running XJ springs out back with a full width 14-bolt on 39.5's.





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Old 03-01-2005, 04:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbwrangler
Seems like a stupid question, but a pretty experienced wheeler/ owner of a local 4x4 shop said that mounting the traction bar (ladder type such as one from Sam's or MORE) on the driver side caused some wierd handling on and off road. I'm talking about the rear Traction bar.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inferno

The only thing you notice with the SBC, is that in low range, when you put it in gear and hold the break, the entire suspension loads up on the side the bar is on.
It's called Anti-Squat guys. The Sam's/M.O.R.E. style traction bars have a high instant center placed far behind center of gravity, both of which cause the anti squat to be high enough to induce jacking. This will occur regarless of what side the bar is on. This is why 4-links are so popular.

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Old 03-01-2005, 05:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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sjlplat, what is that? I assume you built it. Not many people like the one link design and all but is that a hyd cyl with an adjustable bypass built in ???
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Old 03-01-2005, 05:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Mine is on the driver side.
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Old 03-01-2005, 05:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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sjlplat, i dont understand your traction bar. it looks like the red arrow points to a slip joint, which would completely negate the idea behind how that anti-wrap device works. however, the labia pink area looks like some kind of valving, as though that "slip joint" would act like more like a shock. please explain.
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Old 03-01-2005, 06:12 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Very interesting sjlplat!

I had to run my Sams traction bar on the driverside due to my offset rear diff. My traction bar is only 1.5" off center and I have some real back anit squat - tourque over characteristics. If I could, I would mount it on the pass. side to counter act the torque over. Yes a 2.5L w/5:38s can cause torque over.
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Old 03-01-2005, 07:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Driver's side due to exhaust. Broke the top axle tab welds 2 weeks ago at the Hammers. Just bought everything to make another and move it to the passenger side. D60s front and rear with IROK 39.5s.
Not totally happy with the first one.

About the 4-link..... Next major project
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Old 03-01-2005, 08:12 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Looks like adaption of a pull bar from the roundy-round sceen... I'm planning a similer with some rubber/polly busings with some preload adjustments...

I do like the hydro cylinder deal. seems like it might be easier to tune and maybe depending on ammounts or type of fluid used to offer some different dampening characteristics... Please post back with some more info..

But bassically its NOT directly affecitng AS.. And as for the na-sayers.....imho. with adiquate leaf packs some wrap (google: forward bite) can be a good thing...

good read on forward bite here http://stockcarracing.com/techarticles/59459/

quote from article.. “The torque absorber allows the rearend housing to wrap up and thus takes that instant shock away from the rear tires when a driver first jabs on the gas pedal,” says Wayne Lensing of Lefthander Chassis.

While they arnt dealing with a low psi tire that is also absorbing torque or terrain that changes by the foot. I still has some merits.. just my .02 based on my internet research... We can rediscover staggard shock placment tomarrow

Just happy to see other non-conformists out there
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Old 03-01-2005, 09:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Good info. I guess alot factors into the jacking/antisquat other than the location of the traction bar, such as spring stiffness, shocks, etc.

I think that I will just move my exhaust so I can put the TB on the passenger side, alot of my exhaust got trashed on my last trip anyway.

The center bar looks interesting. Nice job. I'd be interested to learn more about it.

JB
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Old 03-01-2005, 10:47 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Drivers side, RE 1.5 SOA leafs, 35 MT/R's. No problems so far.

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Old 03-01-2005, 11:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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sjlplat's traction bar can also be seen here: /forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/326334-xj-rears-yj.html

The cylinder has 3/4" play in it. Hopefully he'll chime in and tell you the rest or check out the thread above. Pretty good idea and a little outside the box.

Also some more alternative traction bar info (not Sam's style) in this thread:/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/332171-cant-friggen-find.html

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Old 03-01-2005, 11:38 PM   #17 (permalink)
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A little more info on my link:

The link was designed and built by Steve Lesher of Over the Top Customs. He uses a hydraulic cylinder and limits the slip to 3/4" to prevent binding and tilting of the diff at full droop. Since the cylinder rotates 360 degrees, it will not bind when flexing side to side. Granted, it will not completely eliminate axle wrap, but it does keep it under control.

Steve runs it under his Scrambler with a full-width 14B and 39.5's under 4" YJ springs. After seeing his bent spring packs prior to the traction link install, and knowing how hard he wheels it, I was sold on the design.

My rig runs the same full-width 14B on 39.5's, but I run stock XJ springs out back with an F150 leaf added.

The parts list consists of enough tubing to build the crossmember and diff hoop, 4 tabs, 2 heims, 2 link inserts, and a hydraulic cylinder.
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Old 03-01-2005, 11:45 PM   #18 (permalink)
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is the 3/4" travel unrestricted? or is there somehow some dampning too it? I have a cylinder lying around and I was thinking about doing this but with it almost full of oil and just a little air. the air would allow for a little cushion to it.
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Old 03-01-2005, 11:49 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettM
is the 3/4" travel unrestricted? or is there somehow some dampning too it? I have a cylinder lying around and I was thinking about doing this but with it almost full of oil and just a little air. the air would allow for a little cushion to it.
Yes, it is unrestricted. The fluid idea might work - Worst case scenario, it doesn't work and you've got the same thing I do.
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Old 03-02-2005, 10:38 AM   #20 (permalink)
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i have ran mine on the drivers side, no problems with it for over 3 years. But after the 350 i did notice when u really open it up, the drivers side will lift up a little. But its not built for the street so i really could care less, it works great for what i need it for!
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Old 03-02-2005, 12:52 PM   #21 (permalink)
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im about to build my traction bar and im trying to decide how to locate it. itll be on the drivers side, i have a yj and my exhaust is on the pass. side, but, what im thinking of doing is welding it to the pumpkin section. i have an 8.8 and since i cant post pics ill just refer to u-joints picture. i was thinking of placing the outer mounting tab on the edge of the pumkin that the drivers side tube goes in, and then setting the other mounting bracket in towards the pumpkin and using the rib to help locate it and strengthen it. any thoughts on this? i know its cast iron, but is there a good strong way to weld to it? im going to have my buddy whos a master welder do the welding so im not worried about the strength of his welds just the integrity of the surface. thanks
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Old 03-02-2005, 01:15 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by currupt4130
i was thinking of placing the outer mounting tab on the edge of the pumkin that the drivers side tube goes in, and then setting the other mounting bracket in towards the pumpkin and using the rib to help locate it and strengthen it. any thoughts on this? i know its cast iron, but is there a good strong way to weld to it? im going to have my buddy whos a master welder do the welding so im not worried about the strength of his welds just the integrity of the surface. thanks
Mine has a gusset welded to the top of the diff. This is a question you're going to need to run by your buddy. Make sure he knows what he's doing when welding to that cast surface, otherwise you may wind up looking for a new housing.

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Old 03-02-2005, 03:21 PM   #23 (permalink)
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U-Joint, lokks like we have pretty much the same set up... RE SOA springs, 8.8, MORE traction bar.... You got any pics of the Cross member end of that traction bar? I'm debating on how to build mine.
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Old 03-02-2005, 03:40 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbwrangler
U-Joint, lokks like we have pretty much the same set up... RE SOA springs, 8.8, MORE traction bar.... You got any pics of the Cross member end of that traction bar? I'm debating on how to build mine.

Look at the links in post #16
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Old 03-02-2005, 05:17 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I bent my original bar (1.5" sch40, triangulated) at the end of my driveway right after I put the V8 in.. actually it was exactly at the same time as the D35 blew.

I built this one, and decided that I could try something new if I wanted.
It's a frame, with 2 bumpstops that the bar "floats" between. Its all welded to the flat skid.

In practice, at rideheight the bar sits against the top bumpstop, and i get a slight "thunk" if I get on the breaks fast, and then on the juice. Just enough to tell you it's there and working.

It's worked well so far, what i really want to do is get it on a ramp and then see how it acts when the suspension is all pretzled up.


edit: excuse the nasty welds.

Last edited by Inferno; 03-02-2005 at 05:20 PM.
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