What to use for WB stretch in TJ?

[chad3]

I've searched and there are lots of different ways that people stretch the rear of a TJ. Was just wondering if 1 1/2x2 1/2 rectangle (1/4 wall) is just as good as using 2 1/2 box. I know that box will be stronger, but what is strength and what is overkill vs. weight. Cutting the frame parellel with the floor near the top of the hump and running this tube straight back. Comments, other ideas, pics.

[Bushwhacker]

I used 2x4 3/16" wall.

[chad3]

I thought about that, but I can not get a full weld around the box if I use 4x2 and try and match the frame. Part of the frame is above the fender/body and I was keeping the body on the frame. I'm not choping the entire back out. Thats why I'm asking about other ways to build the extension. I think that my explination makes sense if not ask, I want as much input as I can. Would 2 1/2 box in 3/16 wall be enough for it?? If I cut the frame parellel to the floor, I will be able to cut it in an area that will allow for full weld around the box (horizontal cut not vertical).

This is kind of what I'm talking about. May make more sense.
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...6/IMG_0023.jpg

If anyone can paste the pic instead, please do, it will make the post easier.

[ItsaCJ6]

Originally Posted by chad3

I thought about that, but I can not get a full weld around the box if I use 4x2 and try and match the frame. Part of the frame is above the fender/body and I was keeping the body on the frame. I'm not choping the entire back out. Thats why I'm asking about other ways to build the extension. I think that my explination makes sense if not ask, I want as much input as I can. Would 2 1/2 box in 3/16 wall be enough for it?? If I cut the frame parellel to the floor, I will be able to cut it in an area that will allow for full weld around the box (horizontal cut not vertical).

This is kind of what I'm talking about. May make more sense.
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...6/IMG_0023.jpg

If anyone can paste the pic instead, please do, it will make the post easier.

I would not use 3/16.....1/4 wall min, I would even go for 5/16s.
Since you want to shorten the tubing and loose the resistance to bending gained by the height. This means you have to make up the diffference with hell for stout tubing.

I would also fish plate that joint to increase the contact area on the frame.

[DownNDirty]

Just loosen up the body mounts and lift it up to weld under the body. You don't have to pull it off, just get enough room to get a good weld.

[Doby45]

Pic chad3 linked to.

[Bushwhacker]

I cut mine totally off and slid the new frame into the existing rail, fish mouthed and plated it. Might have been 1/4" cant remember.

[j200]

Dang Bushwhacker, that looks nice. I've thought about a dovetail but haven't got the balls up to do it yet. Whattaya got air shocks up front?

Doby, yours looks nice too.

[Bushwhacker]

Originally Posted by j200

Dang Bushwhacker, that looks nice. I've thought about a dovetail but haven't got the balls up to do it yet. Whattaya got air shocks up front?

Doby, yours looks nice too.

14" Fox Air shocks front and rear. Added a rear sway bar for stability.

Came out a little taller than I wanted. I goofed up when building my front truss for the 3 link and made it too tall, so I didnt get my ride height as low as I could have because the space between my heim and harmonic balancer is only like 4".

My other option would be to move the rad to the rear and move the axle farther forward.

[j200]

Originally Posted by Bushwhacker

14" Fox Air shocks front and rear. Added a rear sway bar for stability.

Came out a little taller than I wanted. I goofed up when building my front truss for the 3 link and made it too tall, so I didnt get my ride height as low as I could have because the space between my heim and harmonic balancer is only like 4".

My other option would be to move the rad to the rear and move the axle farther forward.

Yep, the only reason I didn't get that same issue was because I did a 4 link up front, therefore my heims straddle the h-balancer.

When I put the v8 in I had to deal with a radiator/water pump clearence issue. I was able to recess the rad into the grill about an inch. AC had to go though.

[Bushwhacker]

Originally Posted by j200

Yep, the only reason I didn't get that same issue was because I did a 4 link up front, therefore my heims straddle the h-balancer.

When I put the v8 in I had to deal with a radiator/water pump clearence issue. I was able to recess the rad into the grill about an inch. AC had to go though.

Debating on losing the AC too. If I can get away with a grill shell in my class, I might hack mine up and move the rad forward and move the axle.

Would love to do a SBC also, but wife wants me to spend money on her jeep.

[Jeepman14wheel]

Here is another idea, not sure who's Jeep this is though?

[chad3]

That last one is PT's Jeep, its the other way that I was thinking of going, but seemed to be a bit harder to get a good weld all the way around. He ran the box on a diagonal, so he could get more weld instead of straight down. I think I'm going to run the 2 1/2 box and put a triangle on the downside and see how she runs. Do you think that I can just run a X through the middle and call it good?

[The Rockslut]

Originally Posted by ItsaCJ6

I would not use 3/16.....1/4 wall min, I would even go for 5/16s.

I would also fish plate that joint to increase the contact area on the frame.

3/16 is more than ample. How thick is the factory frame? Not 1/4". 3/16" is fine if he is running coils or leafs, but also if running coilovers or air shocks.

Fish plate at the joint is a very good idea.

[chad3]

Thanks Slut,
I'm going to get the tube now.