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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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you sould be able to weld it back together. clean up the 2 joints butt weld them together. grind the welds flat and then put a brace over the top of the welds. you will want the brace to be set at an angle like this and on both sides of the frame rail. frames usally crack vertically so if you have a brace that has a vertical weld strait up and down it will be more likly to crack then one set on a angle. you want 45 degree at most. less would be better. the longer the weld accross the frame rail the better.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2000
Member # 377
Location: in the woods
Posts: 529
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Fawk that thing! Is this a restore or a trail rig? If it's a trail rig, why bother? You must be getting ready to do a frame up build anyway, so why start out with such a shitty frame. You'll need to really beef up a CJ2a frame to make it trailworthy to begin with. It'll need to be fully boxed at least. You might as well build a frame or start with a Matkins frame, etc. If it's a restore, then go ahead and patch the frame up or whatever.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 144
Location: Northern Mexico... er.. AriDzona
Posts: 6,867
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Took me a whopping weekend to build the last frame I built. That's less time than it took to rehab the last one I rehabbed.
__________________
That's because you're a pinko fascist. - Haole I know what antidisestablishmentarianist means |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Member # 49028
Posts: 21
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Well I have access to a prison fab shop, so I could have one made for cost of materials and $0.60 an hour. Problem is I don't have any measurements for a flatty frame and I was thinking of buying this frame from a guy here in Colorado.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 144
Location: Northern Mexico... er.. AriDzona
Posts: 6,867
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You can find measurements on line really easily
I'd go somewhat wider than stock so it's easier to fit axles later.
__________________
That's because you're a pinko fascist. - Haole I know what antidisestablishmentarianist means |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Member # 49028
Posts: 21
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well about the closest I could find for a flatty was this
http://img473.imageshack.us/my.php?i...erframe8dq.jpg If ssomeone could help fill in the blanks for the framerails I would appreciate it. http://img473.imageshack.us/my.php?i...ing1new6dj.gif Last edited by tim_dwyer11bravo; 11-28-2005 at 08:48 PM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Member # 49028
Posts: 21
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well about the closest I could find for a flatty was this
http://img473.imageshack.us/my.php?i...erframe8dq.jpg If ssomeone could help fill in the blanks for the framerails I would appreciate it. http://img473.imageshack.us/my.php?i...ing1new6dj.gif |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I don't know your plans for your rig. But I wouldn't worry about mathing factory anything if you're building a dedicated trail rig. Consider the axles you'll have under it. Consider the distance between both springs, ctr-to-ctr. Offset pumpkins will drive that dim. SHould you use D44 axles (or even D60's for that matter), you'll prolly be 32.5" or so. If you do an SOA, you'll have to clear the punkin on the pass side.
And don't forget the width of the spring itself. mine are 2.5", some are 3". That'll impact tubing size. I would suggest 4x3x0.125 if you're using Waggy springs or similar. Lastly, keep it simple in design, easy to fix, easy to keep straight during initial tacking.
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