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Old 11-27-2005, 11:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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weld a frame back together?

Think this cj2a frame can be salvaged by welding it back together??




Last edited by tim_dwyer11bravo; 11-27-2005 at 11:45 PM.
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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you sould be able to weld it back together. clean up the 2 joints butt weld them together. grind the welds flat and then put a brace over the top of the welds. you will want the brace to be set at an angle like this and on both sides of the frame rail. frames usally crack vertically so if you have a brace that has a vertical weld strait up and down it will be more likly to crack then one set on a angle. you want 45 degree at most. less would be better. the longer the weld accross the frame rail the better.
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Fawk that thing! Is this a restore or a trail rig? If it's a trail rig, why bother? You must be getting ready to do a frame up build anyway, so why start out with such a shitty frame. You'll need to really beef up a CJ2a frame to make it trailworthy to begin with. It'll need to be fully boxed at least. You might as well build a frame or start with a Matkins frame, etc. If it's a restore, then go ahead and patch the frame up or whatever.
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Old 11-28-2005, 02:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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cool thanx
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Old 11-28-2005, 03:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Took me a whopping weekend to build the last frame I built. That's less time than it took to rehab the last one I rehabbed.
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Old 11-28-2005, 04:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Well I have access to a prison fab shop, so I could have one made for cost of materials and $0.60 an hour. Problem is I don't have any measurements for a flatty frame and I was thinking of buying this frame from a guy here in Colorado.
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Old 11-28-2005, 05:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You can find measurements on line really easily I'd go somewhat wider than stock so it's easier to fit axles later.
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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well about the closest I could find for a flatty was this

http://img473.imageshack.us/my.php?i...erframe8dq.jpg

If ssomeone could help fill in the blanks for the framerails I would appreciate it.

http://img473.imageshack.us/my.php?i...ing1new6dj.gif

Last edited by tim_dwyer11bravo; 11-28-2005 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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well about the closest I could find for a flatty was this

http://img473.imageshack.us/my.php?i...erframe8dq.jpg

If ssomeone could help fill in the blanks for the framerails I would appreciate it.

http://img473.imageshack.us/my.php?i...ing1new6dj.gif
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Old 11-28-2005, 09:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I don't know your plans for your rig. But I wouldn't worry about mathing factory anything if you're building a dedicated trail rig. Consider the axles you'll have under it. Consider the distance between both springs, ctr-to-ctr. Offset pumpkins will drive that dim. SHould you use D44 axles (or even D60's for that matter), you'll prolly be 32.5" or so. If you do an SOA, you'll have to clear the punkin on the pass side.

And don't forget the width of the spring itself. mine are 2.5", some are 3". That'll impact tubing size. I would suggest 4x3x0.125 if you're using Waggy springs or similar.

Lastly, keep it simple in design, easy to fix, easy to keep straight during initial tacking.
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Old 11-28-2005, 09:50 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Hey geesh, saw your solidworks file in another post, what output does solidworks use and could I get a copy of it?
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