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Old 06-22-2006, 03:35 PM   #26 (permalink)
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You fucked up. I have the same tank on my tj. In the same location yours is but I sunk it into the floor almost all the way in but 3 inches on the top stick up in the trunk. Take a piece of 1/4 inch steel plate and attach it at the bottom of the frame in the rear flush to it(also makes tank skid), cut out the floor to slide the tank in, use the same mounts you did on the steel plate attached to the bottom of the frame. That way you only lose 3 inches from the floor up of the dimension of the tank. I cant take pics so I cant show you. Also, at the rear above the tail light, mount the filler on the outside, that way you can fill the fuel outside the vehicle and not have to open up the jeep to fill, plus no fuel smell. If you want to get fancy, make a cap for the top of the tank that shows, bolt to the floor, and you will never notice. Fairly simple mod to do, requires almost no fabricating, just a little cutting, drilling, and bolting. Did mine in less than 1 hour. The thought took longer though Oh yeah, it still works with your rear wheel based stretched for up to 12 inches with a d60, make sure you cut out the floor all the way to the back, I didnt have to remove any of the stock tailgate, 3rd brakelight, locking mechanism at all. pm me if you want more info.
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Old 06-22-2006, 06:48 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Redmist do you have any leaking problems with yours? Mine leaked bad, but again I left off the stock rubber gasket. I just put seal all around mine an I think it fixed the problem. I am probably gonna have to go back in that damn tank to investigate why the fuel pump is not working. My arrow is facing fwd also, that was a typo, so I am not sure what the problem is?

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Old 06-22-2006, 07:41 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Pics are back up guys... I re-hosted them YET AGAIN! thanks for nothing CableOne.
I went rounds and rounds with CableOne when I lived in Boise. If you run into a problem again, let me know..... I run a webserver out of my garage
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Old 06-23-2006, 07:27 AM   #29 (permalink)
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thanks ,for the write redmist. i got my 2161a today and as soon as tjken get some more rings ill be puttin her in. ur writeup has cleared alot of smal things up
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Old 06-23-2006, 09:58 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Awsome write up. Mines going in the same spot in a Tj with a CJ tailgate. So no brake shit in the way.


Thanks Red. Those pictures are a huge help.
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Old 06-23-2006, 10:42 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Redmist....have you had any issues with cracking on the cell mounting tabs from having it suspended in just the four corners? I have just completed the same cell and mounting location and started second guessing the long term effects of not adding a vibration absorbing pad under the center portion of the cell.
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Old 06-23-2006, 01:48 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Redmist....have you had any issues with cracking on the cell mounting tabs from having it suspended in just the four corners? I have just completed the same cell and mounting location and started second guessing the long term effects of not adding a vibration absorbing pad under the center portion of the cell.
"It is a good idea to add some sort of support to the center of the cell to hold up the bottom. I used a cut down tire bumper off of my tail gate."
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Old 06-23-2006, 07:53 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I will be suspending my cell in a gurdle and not using the welded on tabs at all. I have seen them crack especially when you have each tab going to a different member and stressing the cell.

No one has answered my question about the stock pump in the cell. Are all of you suspending them in the cell without support on the base? I was told this was a big no-no and will cause premature failure of the pump and the reason they are spring loaded is to push them against the bottom of whatever it is sitting in.

So...how are all of you supporting the pumps in a too tall cell?

And Blue Torch guys how much height does you thread ring add to the pump?

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Old 06-23-2006, 10:46 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Wow damn this came back from the dead fast!



I don't feel that I "Fucked up" as the cell works fine and I would rather not cut my floor. Thanks for the info though man! I may sink it in at a later date.


I did use two bump stops frpm my rear tail gate under the cell. I am going to remove them and use a large mud flap to cover the entire surface area under the cell. I am also going to add straps to the cell and make a box around it that seperates the cab from the cell.

I have JUST A LITTLE smell of gas left in the jeep if it sits for a couple of days. It is gone in about 30 seconds from starting the jeep. A plus to the 03 and nere jeeps is that the vent for the hard top over preasure is in the tail gate!

So the fumes are pushed out the back of the vehicle instead of having to get to the hard top vents on older models.


No cracking so far!
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Old 06-23-2006, 10:47 PM   #35 (permalink)
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No one has answered my question about the stock pump in the cell. Are all of you suspending them in the cell without support on the base? I was told this was a big no-no and will cause premature failure of the pump and the reason they are spring loaded is to push them against the bottom of whatever it is sitting in.

yoy can take 3 small screws and run then through the expansion track on the pump at its most extended location.


This will fix the pickup and make it so it cant come loose.
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Old 06-23-2006, 10:49 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I went rounds and rounds with CableOne when I lived in Boise. If you run into a problem again, let me know..... I run a webserver out of my garage

damn long time no see phatXJ!


Have you seen Daves rig yet?

Dynatrac 60/70 Exo 38's....

It works great!
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Old 06-24-2006, 12:26 AM   #37 (permalink)
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damn long time no see phatXJ!


Have you seen Daves rig yet?

Dynatrac 60/70 Exo 38's....

It works great!
Yeah, he sent me a few pics a while back.... didn't surprise me that he built it up like that after the move to the midwest

Your TJ is coming out sweet. I like how you just dove in head first on a practicly brand new rig

I sold the XJ a while back and built up a YJ. I'm about 3/4's of the way though it now. Here's a link to some pics: http://jeepin.net/forum/showpost.php...&postcount=392
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:56 PM   #38 (permalink)
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if you havent sold your kilby skid i will buy it from you since i really need one. thanks
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Old 07-26-2006, 06:34 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Sorry man it is gone...
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Old 12-04-2006, 10:02 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Is there a part # for the fuel line itself you used? Is it RUS-641120?
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Old 06-07-2007, 12:11 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Fuel Cell rings

TJKen, please hook me up. I need the rings for a TJ fuel Cell project in the works. Can you help, How much, and where do I send it? Awaiting your reply.
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Old 06-07-2007, 02:19 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Old 07-07-2007, 01:23 PM   #43 (permalink)
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As far as the fuel gage goes, mine did not work on the first fill up at all. Then it just sprang to life and has worked perfect ever since.

Anyone else seen anything similar on the fuel gauge? I just installed an iEquis gauge on my fuel cell with a 0-90 ohm sender and the needle is hanging out just below the E. I have about 1/4 tank in the cell.
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Old 05-25-2009, 07:24 PM   #44 (permalink)
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yoy can take 3 small screws and run then through the expansion track on the pump at its most extended location.


This will fix the pickup and make it so it cant come loose.
Back from the dead... again.

Any pics of where you put the three screws?
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:01 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Back from the dead... again.

Any pics of where you put the three screws?
I don't have any pics but if you have the fuel pump assembly in your hands you'll see the area where the upper and lower parts of the assembly come together. There are three arms that allow the two pieces to slide up and down. Insert screws into those three areas to keep the lower part from sliding/moving.

Edit: Found this pic on the internet. You can see where the screws need to go. It's the part right above the metal canister that has a slot in it. There are three of these. http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/fu...fuelpump-1.jpg

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Old 05-25-2009, 08:12 PM   #46 (permalink)
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I don't have any pics but if you have the fuel pump assembly in your hands you'll see the area where the upper and lower parts of the assembly come together. There are three arms that allow the two pieces to slide up and down. Insert screws into those three areas to keep the lower part from sliding/moving.

Edit: Found this pic on the internet. You can see where the screws need to go. It's the part right above the metal canister that has a slot in it. There are three of these. http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/fu...fuelpump-1.jpg
So do you put the screw through the metal and the plastic slots or just through the plastic just above the metal?
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:16 PM   #47 (permalink)
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So do you put the screw through the metal and the plastic slots or just through the plastic just above the metal?
There is a small hole in the metal at each arm, this is where the screw needs to go through. Then continue through the plastic. The screw will go through the metal hole and then through the slot in the plastic. Make sure that you use thick enough of a screw that it grabs both the metal and plastic to keep anything from moving/sliding.
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:31 PM   #48 (permalink)
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There is a small hole in the metal at each arm, this is where the screw needs to go through. Then continue through the plastic. The screw will go through the metal hole and then through the slot in the plastic. Make sure that you use thick enough of a screw that it grabs both the metal and plastic to keep anything from moving/sliding.
Now it makes sense and I feel like an idiot...it's pretty obvious where they need to go and why. I was looking at the bottom near the filter.

One more question you have an answer to.
I'm using the KORE adapter ring. It comes with a gasket. The stock o-ring gasket won't work with the one in the KORE kit so I'm assuming you don't use the stocker. Is this correct?

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Old 05-25-2009, 08:46 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Now it makes sense and I feel like an idiot...it's pretty obvious where they need to go and why. I was looking at the bottom near the filter.

One more question you have an answer to.
I'm using the KORE adapter ring. It comes with a gasket. The stock o-ring gasket won't work with the one in the KORE kit so I'm assuming you don't use the stocker. Is this correct?
I'm not 100% positive because I have the threaded body that I believe BTF use to sell to mount my fuel pump assembly like it was on the stock tank, but I believe the gasket that comes with the KORE rings goes between the lower ring and the fuel cell roof inside the cell and I'm pretty sure you still need to use the stock gasket as well. Not sure if this helps you or not but that is the way I understand it from threads that I've read with the KORE rings.

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Old 05-26-2009, 02:21 PM   #50 (permalink)
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I did this writeup a while back, and have since switched to an Inline pump just so others know!
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