Hey all you Jeep guys (and ladies) I am looking at buying a 84 CJ-7 with a fiberglass tub, good nose & frame and a pretty new soft top.. I am thinking of getting it for about $750 or $1000 depending on my BIL's mood.. I am a Toyota guy, whay do I need to look for, I know it needs a CAt. converter (simple) and lol, a new bumper.. like they would stay on anyway.. the bigest thing is it needs a new steering box ( I am sure I can dig one up here or there any know whay a going rate is on these??) But what I really want to know is what I should look for, this is going to be a mildly built 4x4 (33 MT's) may get lockers someday, but I am holding out for a good FJ40.. The heck with looks, it will probably get rino'd and painted desert tan... I believe it has the 258-6 and he just put a brand new Webber carb on it, it is also a std. tranny... Don't know much else..
for the price go for it.
if noting else do a few mild add ons and resell it..paint lift and tire wheels makes a world of difference, the fiberglass tub is aloneis well worth 750 as long as its in good shape.
no major breaks.. so hell u might decide that a jeep is what yaneed.
what's wrong w/ the box? is that the problem or is it really the box mount on the frame? that's the crap that gets messed up. good luck. a box from a yard is $50-100.
Since it's a newer CJ and it doesn't sound like it's ever been wheeled hard, this probably isn't a problem, but it's always a good idea to check the frame for cracks around the rearward front spring mounts and the forward rear spring mounts.
Check the very front spring hangers for cracks too--if they're bad you can get replacement 4340 hangers from Slickrock Enterprises.
As for the engine, while nobody ever accused a 258 of being a powerhouse, they're pretty reliable to around 150K. If it has more than that, you may be looking at a rebuild soon. The Weber is a great carb for this engine--lowering the floats a hair does wonders for their extreme-angle running ability, but they still leave a little to be desired at high-angles.
You don't mention whether your tranny is a manual or an auto, but if it's a 5-speed manual, you probably have the Borg Warner T5 and if you have the auto it's probably a TorqueFlite 999. If it's a 4-speed manual you probably have a T4. All are O.K. trannys, but I wouldn't go any bigger than 33-inch tires with either of the manuals. The 999 is a bit stronger.
If it is a 4-spd it could also be a T-176, which is better than the T-4. The T-176 is a med. duty tranny. The t-case is the Dana300 which is a strong case with a decent low range.
Just make sure there are no frame or body cracks. If the bottom is caked with grease and oil, that's better. I bought my CJ from Connecticut and it was like that, all that means is that it never got a chance to rust with all that caked on sh@t. BUT, check the rear of the frame rails near the rear spring perches to make sure the frame is solid there- that is a notorius rusting out spot- at least around here becuase we salt roads like it is going out of style.
For $750, it is running, and has a glass body, you can't go wrong.
...Oh, and the front hubs will be those notorious 5-bolt external jobs... Much better to replace them with the older 6-bolt external design (pre-1981 CJ I think) or, better yet, internal hubs.
Kevin... now what the heck would I want a tin chunk for?? Going for real bumpers for me..:nuke:
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