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Old 05-12-2006, 03:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1991 xj rear 4 link questions

no, this is not a "how do i build a 4 link" post...more just an opinion thread. i have done plenty of researching, so building a 4 link is not a problem...and i have built a 4 link with a friend before, so dont expect that. here is what i got.

i have a 1991 jeep cherokee that i put leaves under the front. i just got done with a trip to moab, and i was very pleased with the jeep, except for the rear suspension. im not sure if the rear is too stiff, or if the front is too soft. i really like how the front worked, so i think a change in the rear is in order. the springs are 4.5 inch rustys sprigns i believe, that i have coupled with 1.75 inch lift shackles. i am running 36 inch super swamper tsl's. the rear does not seem to do much of anything while out on the trail.

i have been contimplating doing a 4 link in the rear. i have it all planned out, with coils ill use, link lengths, mounting, etc etc, the only thing i need opinions on is how to go about stiffening the uni-rails. here is what i was thinking.

1) get some 3x4x3/16 angle iron or c channel, and just plug/stitch weld it to the rails along the rails from the front leaf mount, to the rear spring mount.
2) t&t unibody stiffenerz. im pretty sure they are 3/16 metal, but am not positive

which of these methods should i use? i know the angle iron/c channel will be cheaper, but will it work as well? how have any of you done it? this is all i am really lookin for. thanks in advance
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Old 05-12-2006, 03:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I used 3x4x1/4" angle iron to do mine and it works fine. I rosette welded about 10 spots down each side and stitched 2" sections along the top every 6 inches or so. Its worked out so far and it was much cheaper then having to buy pre-fabbed ones. Keep in mind the XJ uni-body is not flat. About half way down in angles up a few degrees then flattens back out. I cut a section out and pieced it back it like a puzzle and welded them all up.

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Old 05-12-2006, 03:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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a good cage will stiffen the unibody far more and also save your melon in a roll.


leafs in front, coils in back, the backwards XJ comments are coming... trust me, I know...

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Old 05-12-2006, 03:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rok-jeep
I used 3x4x1/4" angle iron to do mine and it works fine. I rosette welded about 10 spots down each side and stitched 2" sections along the top every 6 inches or so. Its worked out so far and it was much cheaper then having to buy pre-fabbed ones. Keep in mind the XJ uni-body is not flat. About half way down in angles up a few degrees then flattens back out. I cut a section out and pieced it back it like a puzzle and welded them all up.

Geoff
yea thas what i was thinkin, did you angle the outside or inside of the unirails? would c-channel be better?
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Old 05-12-2006, 03:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettM
a good cage will stiffen the unibody far more and also save your melon in a roll.


leafs in front, coils in back, the backwards XJ comments are coming... trust me, I know...

i agree, but i do not have access to a tubing bender...cage will come someday, just not anytime soon
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Old 05-13-2006, 08:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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anyone else have any input?
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Old 05-13-2006, 03:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure nobody is responding because this has been covered a whole bunch of times. Search "subframe" and you will find a whole bunch of info on it. People like to use 4x4 x3/16 or 1/4... you can cut the top out and it will slide over your subframe rails...done, you have a subframe. Of course its not that easy, but it will provide you with a solid place to mount your control arms, tie in a cage and mount some cross members... Check NAXJA.org, they talk about it all the time.
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Old 05-13-2006, 04:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrassMunkey4
I'm pretty sure nobody is responding because this has been covered a whole bunch of times. Search "subframe" and you will find a whole bunch of info on it. People like to use 4x4 x3/16 or 1/4... you can cut the top out and it will slide over your subframe rails...done, you have a subframe. Of course its not that easy, but it will provide you with a solid place to mount your control arms, tie in a cage and mount some cross members... Check NAXJA.org, they talk about it all the time.
cool. thanks
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Old 05-14-2006, 08:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I think alot are using 4x6x1/4,cut it in half and you have both sides.
Question for you guys running leafs in front.What do you do to keep it from bending the main leaf at the frame(shackle in front) I know military wrap would be best or is it even an issue?

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Old 05-14-2006, 08:54 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I ran the angle on the outside, it gave me a better place to mount my rock rails to rather than to the unibody. Also I put a cage in mine and that helped stiffen things up too.

Also search for the TOTW (topic of the week) I know it was covered there a while back. Channel was used in that but for me the angle was easier and less work.
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Old 05-14-2006, 10:44 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlyWaXJ
I think alot are using 4x6x1/4,cut it in half and you have both sides.
Question for you guys running leafs in front.What do you do to keep it from bending the main leaf at the frame(shackle in front) I know military wrap would be best or is it even an issue?

OlyWa
BDS 3.5" YJ springs, full military wrap on both ends, lifetime no questions warranty. Though I haven't needed the warranty.

an OOPS in JV, no problems:

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Old 05-14-2006, 11:20 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrassMunkey4
Check NAXJA.org, they talk about it all the time.

no they dont , hes much better off here then at naxja for advanced tech like this.
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Old 05-14-2006, 04:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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3.5 YJ springs? how much lift did that give you? i have sotck CJ rear springs in the front of mine and it is more than enough to clear my 36's before i get into the pitman arm with the spring.
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Old 05-14-2006, 11:04 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xj_man_646
3.5 YJ springs? how much lift did that give you? i have sotck CJ rear springs in the front of mine and it is more than enough to clear my 36's before i get into the pitman arm with the spring.
about 7 inches after breaking 'em in
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Old 05-15-2006, 11:09 AM   #15 (permalink)
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646- I feel the same about my XJ, the front long arms consistantly leave my leafs dragging ass behind me. I created a subframe with 1/4" angle for my front link mounts, the same would work for the rear. I am going to experiment a bit more before i commit to rear coils.
Taking the rig on vacations/ camping etc leaves me some doubt if I wanna carry all that crap with rear coils. Alcan just came out with orbit eyes for leafs I may check into those as well.
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