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Old 06-23-2006, 03:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question clearancing front drive shaft with a dana 300/4L60-E

I have a 4.3/4L60-E/dana 300 combo. I also have a front chevy dana 44 cut down 4" and centered. I want to rotate my transfercase to run a flat belly pan but with this setup its not possible (Engine is ofset to the driver side 1" already). I have two ideas but havent been able to find any info/pictures on it. The first is to run a Crawler box, pushing my transfercase back, possibly giving me the clearance I need. The second is using an atlas transfer case, I heard that the distance from the tranny input to the yoke for the front is about an inch longer then a 300. Is this true? Has anyone tried these two ideas? Anyone have pictures? Anybody have any drawing of a dana 300 compared to an atlas?

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Old 06-23-2006, 03:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Give jess at high angle a call. He can set you up with a pillar block that can help you get the clearance you need.
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Old 06-23-2006, 05:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Running a 700r4 with a dana 300 in the buggy but we had to clearance the tranny pan all the way to the case and run a 2 piece drive shaft and we built a pass side hp 44.

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Old 06-23-2006, 05:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have already seen alot of two piece drive shafts and would like to avoid it.
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Old 06-24-2006, 06:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'll be running this setup, with Klune, in my CJ-7. I'm having a local shop do the fab work. We are still planning on using a pillar block / two-piece front driveshaft, due to overall length not angle.

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Old 06-24-2006, 07:49 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84scrambler
I have a 4.3/4L60-E/dana 300 combo. I also have a front chevy dana 44 cut down 4" and centered. I want to rotate my transfercase to run a flat belly pan but with this setup its not possible (Engine is ofset to the driver side 1" already). I have two ideas but havent been able to find any info/pictures on it. The first is to run a Crawler box, pushing my transfercase back, possibly giving me the clearance I need. The second is using an atlas transfer case, I heard that the distance from the tranny input to the yoke for the front is about an inch longer then a 300. Is this true? Has anyone tried these two ideas? Anyone have pictures? Anybody have any drawing of a dana 300 compared to an atlas?

Thanks
Had the same problem on a rig I helped build last year, we scrapped the D300 plans and went with an NP241 with a SYE. Problem solved, much more clearance, better low ratio, higher torque rating.
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Old 06-24-2006, 03:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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ive got a 700r4 d300 combo in my scout on stock width axles. i didnt want to do the two peice shaft either, even though all the wisdom of pirate told me i would have to. so i experimented. im running a high angle long slip cv now. no contact at all. all i did was mash the corner of the pan in with a hammer as far as it would go without hitting the internals and still letting the flange seal well. dont do this with it on the trans. put it on the ground and pound it in and test fit. i have an AA adapter. it has provisions for normal clocking or down a bit, iirc. i think mine is down a bit but its still flat. or maybe its up a bit, i dont remember for sure. if you run a single u-joint instead of a cv i see no problems making it work.

edit: i remember now, it is clocked down. thats why i was doing the experimenting with the twin stick in the pic as well. finally got that fixed by just bending the little twisted links a little. from what i remember i dont think its possible with the case mounted normal or clocked up without modifying the transmission case and most likely making it leak like a sieve.

xj d-shaft test fit


the round boss in the lower right is what the pan will hit when you clearance it.


heres the d-shaft im running

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Old 06-25-2006, 08:27 AM   #8 (permalink)
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<--- 700R4, NP208 factory adapter, D300.

One piece shaft, no clearancing.
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Old 06-25-2006, 10:58 AM   #9 (permalink)
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olblueCJ7 are you running a full width in the front? If not then how did you do this?

Fishermanmatt: Whats the max diameter that you can run with the Klune in?
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Old 06-25-2006, 10:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yeah - Waggy width LP D44 up front.
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Old 06-26-2006, 06:56 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84scrambler
I have already seen alot of two piece drive shafts and would like to avoid it.
Then maybe you saw getto versions- done right- it's the way to go, cleans the belly, gets the shaft out of harm's way better.

Atlas is confirmed to have 1" more distance between the outputs, good luck with your project, I like Tom Woods stuff myself
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:23 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm running a cut-down Chevy 44 up front, Dana 300, and a 700r4 behind a 5.7. Right now I am running the stock CJ skid, but have been experiementing with different ideas on going flat. Basically, because my drivetrain is mounted pretty high, it looks like I could run a flat skid with the exception of a small "hump", for the section of the xfer case that drops below the frame rails about 2". I am running a standard diameter, non-CV front shaft.

My engine is offset to he passenger side 1.5", and when I cut the axle I tried to get the diff as close to the pass side as possible while still running standard length shafts (inboard springs).

I looked at clocking the 300 to get totally flat, but I would run into clearance issues for sure. I have decided to compromise with the pan that's not totally flat- but a hell'uva lot flatter than stock.
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:31 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84scrambler
I have a 4.3/4L60-E/dana 300 combo. I also have a front chevy dana 44 cut down 4" and centered. I want to rotate my transfercase to run a flat belly pan but with this setup its not possible (Engine is ofset to the driver side 1" already). I have two ideas but havent been able to find any info/pictures on it. The first is to run a Crawler box, pushing my transfercase back, possibly giving me the clearance I need. The second is using an atlas transfer case, I heard that the distance from the tranny input to the yoke for the front is about an inch longer then a 300. Is this true? Has anyone tried these two ideas? Anyone have pictures? Anybody have any drawing of a dana 300 compared to an atlas?

Thanks
I am in the same predicament.....6.0 - 4l60e - Dana 300. I used the Novak adapter and if I had known better, I would have went with the A/A adapter as it is longer so it is easier to clock the transfer case. I am kind of pissed at Novak as they did not mention any clearance issues with the shift rails when trying to clock the t/c with their adapter. Once I get it running and cleared by the smog referee this week, then I'll tackle the clearance issue. Keep me posted as what you end up doing.
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:58 AM   #14 (permalink)
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great info. I'm stuffing a LT1 and 4l60E to a Dana 300 using the AA adapter which will be here as soon. In for the info
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Old 06-26-2006, 09:11 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikecj5cj8
I am kind of pissed at Novak as they did not mention any clearance issues with the shift rails when trying to clock the t/c with their adapter.

Can you elaborate? I've sold a bunch of clocking kits to guys running them on 700R4's 4L60e's and never had any feedback about shiftrail interference.

I do know of some issues on some of the manual trannies and give customers a heads up & the solutions, I'd like to be able to do the same here
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Old 06-26-2006, 09:29 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikecj5cj8
I am in the same predicament.....6.0 - 4l60e - Dana 300. I used the Novak adapter and if I had known better, I would have went with the A/A adapter as it is longer so it is easier to clock the transfer case. I am kind of pissed at Novak as they did not mention any clearance issues with the shift rails when trying to clock the t/c with their adapter. Once I get it running and cleared by the smog referee this week, then I'll tackle the clearance issue. Keep me posted as what you end up doing.

?????

I'm running the Novak and am VERY happy with the fit of the case, shifters and the clocking. I did install the adapter incorrectly at one time and was TOTALLY not happy with ANYTHING, but after taking it apart and putting the 'NOVAK' stamp UP, I've been quite satisfied. I am running a CJ style driveline...




Sorry, that's the best picture I have at the moment. Not a real driveline close up picture, though.

(yes, my exhaust routing has changed pretty significantly since that picture)
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Old 06-26-2006, 09:52 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Go2Guy
Can you elaborate? I've sold a bunch of clocking kits to guys running them on 700R4's 4L60e's and never had any feedback about shiftrail interference.

I do know of some issues on some of the manual trannies and give customers a heads up & the solutions, I'd like to be able to do the same here
If I clock my t/c clockwise the shift rails hit the "hump" on the 4l60e. So, I cannot pull back on my twin sticks. If I try and clock the t/c counter clockwise, to flatten the t/c the yoke is too far behind the tranny pan. I had a post earlier addressing this. /forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/467716-twin-stick-dana-300-behind-4l60e.html
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Old 06-26-2006, 04:00 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the good info.. It looks like the atlas or Klune box will solve my clearance problem. mikecj5cj8, from doing alot of reading if you go full width and offset your engine as much as you can you can usually get away with putting the transfercase up flat and running a 2" driveshaft. I got screwed cause my pinion doesnt kick over enough to clear.
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Old 06-26-2006, 04:24 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84scrambler
Thanks for all the good info.. It looks like the atlas or Klune box will solve my clearance problem. mikecj5cj8, from doing alot of reading if you go full width and offset your engine as much as you can you can usually get away with putting the transfercase up flat and running a 2" driveshaft. I got screwed cause my pinion doesnt kick over enough to clear.
I currently have a Waggy 44 with the springs outboarded. I have a GM Dana 60 sitting in my garage for my Winter project. My motor is offset, but probably not enough. The thin width of the Novak adapter keeps the t/c from clocking too much. The t/c is too close to the tranny. Good luck with your Scrambler.
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:25 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Fishermanmatt: Whats the max diameter that you can run with the Klune in?
We're not at the stage of measuring for driveshafts yet. The attached image may help. I'm using 4.3, 4l60e, Novak adapter, Klune, D300 with a full width 60/14 combo. Let me know if there is another pic/angle you need.
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Old 06-27-2006, 06:30 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fisher_man_matt
We're not at the stage of measuring for driveshafts yet. The attached image may help. I'm using 4.3, 4l60e, Novak adapter, Klune, D300 with a full width 60/14 combo. Let me know if there is another pic/angle you need.
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[IMG][/IMG]
Can someone throw up a pic of where the interference is happening- I may be abvle to offer some solutions based on other installs with a bit of interference.

Fisher- some friendly info, that design crossmember has a history of breaking expensive parts- usually transmission cases. By mounting solid at the tranny mount and using relatively stiff bushings further out at the frame this mount most often has way less give than the engine mounts, especially as frames flex etc. As a result, the full "gear reduction included" motor torque gets transferred to ther tranny crossmember and it usually rips the pad off where your crossmember bolts up or the roughly 7" diameter thin wall AL casting of the tranny just in front of it shears in torsion.

A better method is to have 3 point mounting (as most oems do) where the block is fixed on each side and there is a flexible/pivot mount centered on the tranny. Theres been quite a few threads on this over the yrs, some have gotten away with runnin g this way, but many have not- at this point- why take a chance. Looks like you could easily refab your particular mount to put a typical tranny mount in their with no loss in GC. Good luck

No offense guys, but Pirate's are kinda known for being thrifty, I'm a bit surprised that you'd consider an Atlas or KluneV as a viable option when all you need is a good two piece driveshaft at Waaaaaaaaaaay less cost. Of course, you might have lusted for one all along and this might be what you needed to push you over the edge
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Old 06-27-2006, 07:31 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I agree with Ken a good 2 piece drive shaft will make your life a lot eaisier and you will end up with more clearance, better angles, and a shorter spline and ultimately probably less vibes. If you are worried about it being hack the OEM truck manufacturers do it all the time in the rear of cdl trucks and they work great.

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Old 06-28-2006, 06:38 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I had some issues also with the 300/4L60E fit but I just modified the case. This isn't the best pic but....
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Old 06-28-2006, 07:03 PM   #24 (permalink)
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what front axle are you running?
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Old 06-28-2006, 08:13 PM   #25 (permalink)
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A WT 30 for this one....
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