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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Member # 75586
Location: Midwest
Posts: 222
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Drivetrain set up 83 CJ7
I'm looking for the perfect combo in my jeep 83 CJ7, D44's & 37's. It currently has a Howell Fuel Injected 360, 904 Tranny & D300. Too much heat inside the jeep and overheating issues has always plagued this jeep. Will a late model (99-02) cherokee 4.0 bolt up to my 904? I'd like to keep the 904 even though it's ready for a rebuild and the twin stick 300 was freshened up a couple of years ago. I drive about 70 miles round trip a day and would like to drive it once a week to work and I wheel about 8-10 times per year. A cool running, late model EFI engine, with decent power and an auto is what I'm looking for. I'm trying to make the combo work without buying adapters. Thanks for suggestions.
Terry |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2000
Member # 1533
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 2,779
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The AMC six cylinders and V8's share the same bellhousing bolt pattern, so yes the 904 will bolt up to a 4.0.
The issue will be the crank positioning sensor, which that tranny/bell doesn't have a spot for. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Member # 9614
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 1,008
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If cooling is your only problem, why are you so quick to ditch the 360?
Perhaps radiator is too small or too corroded? Need a higher-volume water pump? Auxiliary cooler? Poor shrouding between the exhaust and body? Fixing any/all of those should be a lot less hassle than an engine swap.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Member # 75586
Location: Midwest
Posts: 222
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The last thing to check regarding the cooling issues is exhaust gas in the radiator, everything else is new. New 3 core, mechanical fan, shroud, with and w/o thermostat, heater core, BM tranny cooler, etc. I almost hope it's that just so I can finally fix the problem. The second is heat from the V-8 on the floor of the CJ. A piece of carpet will help some. But finally I've never been able to make the EFI system work even as good as my carb 2bbl did. I've ran through all of it numerous times with Howell's Tech Dept, but it still seemed to run rich and sputter and backfire when you would get on it. With the overheating and running issues maybe it's time for it to go.
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Member # 35307
Location: Oceanside, Ca.
Posts: 853
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Quote:
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Len Barron 72 Commando/LS2/4L65e/NP241 DRWHP60-ARB/14B-Detroit/4.56/H1's/37's Bullnose Build in Progress Stretched Bullnose |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Member # 75586
Location: Midwest
Posts: 222
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I'm not getting exhaust gasses in the radiator so what's the deal. Why is this thing overheating. 35-40 min sitting outside in 90 degree weather it overheats and starts gurggling ready to blow it's stack. Driving 35-40 min running 65-70 same thing. Where else could the problem be.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Member # 35307
Location: Oceanside, Ca.
Posts: 853
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Quote:
unshrouded radiator, bad clutch fan, undersized radiator, and any combination of the above. You say your not getting cylinder gas in the coolant but that can be pretty hard to detect if the cracks are hairline sized. What rpm are you running at 65-70mph?
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Len Barron 72 Commando/LS2/4L65e/NP241 DRWHP60-ARB/14B-Detroit/4.56/H1's/37's Bullnose Build in Progress Stretched Bullnose |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Member # 75586
Location: Midwest
Posts: 222
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All the above has been replaced with new. 37's & 4:56's at 70mph is about 2900 rpm I think, but it overheats just sitting there too. Even with a hairline crack there should be water loss, water in exhaust it's just overheating so fast, maybe there is a port inside the engine blocked up. One guy told me he'd seen a head gasket upside down blocking a cooling port before.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Member # 28566
Posts: 671
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To start with, I can't see anything hardcore about this thread.. Hopefully it will get moved where it belongs.
Here's the big issue for you: If you can't figure out how to cool this engine properly, you're not going to do any better with anything else you put in there. You're not the first person to run a 360 in a CJ. It's an everyday swap... so the engine is not your problem. What radiator are you running? How many rows? Are you running a proper shroud? Is the fan in the proper position? Have you actually run a block test on it, or are you going by "guess-and-bygosh?" Is your thermostat functioning correctly? Did you take it out and test it? Do you have it installed in the proper orientation? (You are running a thermostat, aren't you?) Have you bled all the air out of the cooling system? Set that thing up properly and eliminate any problems, and it will run just fine... but that's just basic, elementary automotive tech (very basic) nothing hardcore here! . Last edited by LilRocky; 07-20-2006 at 02:46 AM. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
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i run an zj318 in my 83cj with the STOCK 258 radiator and 2 electric fans.
never seen it over 210, even on 110* days. you need to get the underhood temps down. once i pulled the inner fenders out my engine temps dropped 20+* pull the hood off for a day and drive it around.. see if it helps. if so, pull those inner fenders out. or louver the hood, or dimple die the everliving shit outtah the innder fenders... ANYTHING to let that trapped heat out. metric shittons of people run 360's in cj's/
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