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Old 08-18-2006, 11:55 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I had the cracker name claimed on my rig but I guess since I painted it grey I'll hae to let the name slip.
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Old 08-18-2006, 12:10 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Looks good. Always interested to see sheet metal work like you did to the rear of the tub.
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Old 08-18-2006, 12:28 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Nice buildup. I plan to be at the same wheelbase/axle/tire combo by this time next year. Keep us updated...
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Old 08-18-2006, 12:31 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Looks good man. coming along nicely.
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Old 08-19-2006, 06:24 AM   #30 (permalink)
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cool. a little different. i like it.
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Old 08-19-2006, 08:00 AM   #31 (permalink)
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nice build I look forward to more progress!
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Old 08-20-2006, 09:00 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Sweet deal.. If I can every move back around here which I dont know if I want to or not yet I can help you out some more.
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Old 09-07-2006, 01:17 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Any updates? C'mon you cant start out like that then not update us. Youve done some really clean nice work. The side profile really shows how much the rear wheelbase will be stretched. What are you doing for a cage?
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Old 09-07-2006, 06:02 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Nice, love the rear stretched rear corners
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Old 09-07-2006, 08:01 AM   #35 (permalink)
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I am not leaving you hanging, its just that I am still waiting on parts.

Unless you want me to post up, that I installed my RE belley pan.

Just twideling my thumbs waiting for my Atlas.
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Old 09-21-2006, 08:59 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Dodge 1 ton MC swap info

I thought I would add some useful info I learned last night.

I picked up a 99 Dodge 1 ton mastercylider from a junk yard for $35.00.
If you mark the factory push rod sticking out of the brake booster, and add 3/8" this will accommodate the difference in length of the of the new master cylinder.

Speaking from experience. Last night replaced the 1/4" fine thread with a random bolt from my collection. Went for a test drive and it made a definite improvement. However upon my final brake stomping at 35MPH it bent the bolt I used into a perfect "Z" shape.

Use a grade 5 or better 1/4" fine thread 2" long bolt. Not grade 2

My Jeep is currently bone stock axles tires etc.

This is an improvement that even a stock Jeep will benefit from.

Other than this bit of info it is a direct swap that took about 30 minutes to complete.
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Old 09-21-2006, 02:56 PM   #37 (permalink)
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i love the rear fender work but i do have a question...

where is the filler neck for your new gas tank??
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Old 09-21-2006, 03:34 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Go back and look at the pictures.........and read his text. It's under the driver's taillight, and he tells how he had to modify the filler neck...............
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Old 09-21-2006, 09:28 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Hey man, you got yoursefl one sweet ass Jeep. Keep up the good work and keep us posted.
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Old 09-22-2006, 06:04 AM   #40 (permalink)
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looks good
posting up to keep an eye on the build
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Old 09-28-2006, 01:52 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Progress update

Last weekend I removed the rear axle, and ground off all the mounting brackets. Not too exciting, but now I am committed.

I installed my Atlas 5:1 last weekend.

Nothing too fancy about that, but if you consider what I have been through. I have had to send in my broke Tera Flex 4:1 transfer cased twice for repairs, then reassemble the original case, because this was my DD. Then two weeks later pull it out and reinstall the 4:1.
To hell with that, this was a jovial time for me. It was a if I had been punished with my Tera unit, and not I was being blessed with an Atlas.

I do have the 3 speed automatic, with a 1”body lift, 1” Motor mount lift, and a RE skid plate. I clocked the studs all the way to the right so the 5th hole. The shifting boot that Atlas supplies you with is “special”.. .or I am not competent to operate a rubber boot. With enough puttering I worked out a solution. It was a little tight to the bottom of the Jeep tub, simple solution jack the Jeep up by the transfercase and watch the floor pan clearance around the Atlas, now I have ~2” of clearance to the top of the tub and .75" between the RE pan and the bottom of the case.

I installed a twin stick CNC cutting brake, the installation was a snap, I had to rework the center console by notching it a few inches but other that that, the console remains stock and I still have my factory sub, and cup holders. I do have to push on it, rather than pull, with the top of the handles just below the arm rest. One handle fits in the factory slot and the other handle fits just outside the edge of the console.

FYI: When installing a Deep sump tranny pan, use silicone, don’t just rely on the provided gasket, and don’t forget to reinstall the magnet that goes in the pan. That is all

I tried to install a line lock for the front, two days wasted, the result was as impressive as my tranny pan. Yeah it leaked and Jeep uses some funky fittings that I am unable to locate. So I will come back to this mid winter when I have nothing better to do.

Two weeks ago a buddy came by with torch and we bent up some axle mounting trusses on both axles. 2.0”.25 wall Dom is some tough stuff. Heat was needed to persuade it to bend. I Added a few gussets, some nickel rod, bracing to the diff, a couple go fast holes. She should hold. “When in doubt make it stout” moto.

This week I have been working on understanding the 4-link calculator. Yup anti squat, Roll center, Roll axis. Axle steer. These terms have plagued my mind the past 72 hours.

I know what I did not want…..a typical RE long arm kit, nothing personal but the anti squat # on that thing are through the roof. If I’m taking the time to build a 4 link, I certainly don’t want it to behave like my friends Jeeps do, unless pulling the front axle up on every hill climb is the “cool” thing to do.

I originally set out to copy the rear suspension of Poison Spiders orange Unlimited. They simply cut off the upper mounting tab on the RE skid plate, rotated it a few degrees and welded the upper rears to the axle. Cheap easy way to get a 4 link suspension with a 150% Anti Squat = bad.

So after being a computer geek for a few days, doing more reading that I ever did in high school, I have enough of an understanding to be dangerous.

The rear four link will have adjustable upper links, to adjust my AS from 58-106% I cut off the RE tabs and built my own uppers link mouts.
The rear lower link will be 20” off the ground, in the center of the tube for ground clearance and suspension reasons. The rear upper link will be attached as low as possible on the housing to keep the links parallel as possible. Axle separation of 8” and frame separation of 4”-8.5”.

I will post pictures of my latest work this weekend when I get the 4 link finished

Sorry for the long winded post.
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Old 10-05-2006, 04:07 PM   #42 (permalink)
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GREAT JUB ON THIS BUILD..
And I agree with the statement about reading more than in high school.. cheers
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Old 10-06-2006, 08:01 AM   #43 (permalink)
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I'm very interested in seeing the fab work you did for the 4 link. I'll be linking my YJ within the next month so I am looking for ideas on bracket and truss fabrication...
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Old 10-07-2006, 09:39 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Give Us Mo Pics!
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Old 10-07-2006, 09:51 AM   #45 (permalink)
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i agree more pics
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Old 10-09-2006, 07:36 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Upper Link Frame End

Here are my upper link mounts on the frame end.

After a couple wasted attempts, this was the best I could come up with.

I wanted them as close to the body as possible, however in playing with the 4 link caculator I found it is much easier to adjust the lowers on the axle end than adjust the uppers on the frame end.

So my first theory of adjustable uppers was blown out the window
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Old 10-09-2006, 07:38 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Upper link picture

The bolt that goes through the link bracket is one of the six bolts that is used on the Rubicon Express crossmember
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Last edited by SWAG MFG; 10-09-2006 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 10-09-2006, 07:45 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Front axle picture

yeah I know sweep the floor
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Old 10-09-2006, 07:50 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Rear axle links. as low to the housing as possible.

The axle truss is 2" .25 wall dom, plated with 1/4" steel. Rear diff cover bolts to truss, simular to BFT set up,and square tube welded to the pinion support of diff.

If this thing breaks off then i really suck at welding
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Old 10-09-2006, 07:51 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Again
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