One links front and rear......chime in

[keegan]

How many are running some sort of one-link on the front and the rear?

--if only front and not rear or vice-versa, then why?


I have searched this topic alot, just trying to get more...

Mainly wanting to see the setup in YJ/TJs so I can see where everyone is putting their shocks/panhard bar etc...

Thanks in advance.

(of course the more pics the better)

Keegan

[Jeepman14wheel]

Why a one arm? A four link would be much stronger and a lot safer. I know it cost more, but to do things right it costs.

[rustyoldjeep]

I've seen one links that work amazing. I've considered it myself

[kirbyiv]

Originally Posted by rustyoldjeep

I've seen one links that work amazing. I've considered it myself

you have seen them WORK amazing or FLEX amazing...because there is a huge difference between the two.

[JeepFreak21]

I have nothing to add... except this cool picture

Billy

[OkLaHoMaYJ]

What's up keegan? Did you get my old YJ back or what?

I've contemplated the same setup on the TJ and decided against it. I'm going to 4 link the rear with long arms. Poly bushings at the frame end and either 7/8'' Heims or flex joints at the axle. For the front it's 3 link with a pan hard bar.

[keegan]

No, the guy ended up selling it anyway, but it is for sale again already lol...im sure something is messed up with it, i dont know...

I still dont have anything yet...keeping my options open. Im gonna build some 1 tons first, buy some parts, then eventually get another YJ or TJ if I find a deal like yours...

A shop out here has done alot of one link stuff, tossing around the idea of doing it up front with the rear 4 link...$$$$ is owning me, time to start robbing banks again...

[sand dune coon]

leaf spring guy here and thought about the one link set up also but when u really start to understand how the 4 link works u might decide against it, not that the one link set ups dont work for some folks..

[Chrisjeep7]

IMHO, one links "work" because the rigs you see them on normally have 44"+ tires 120" WB and v-8 power. with the size of that rig anything would work relative to a jeep with 38's. but when you put apples to apples one links cant hold up to a properly designed off road suspension. hell, its not that much cheaper. also you dont have any adjustments in a one link so i hope it works like you want the first time.

grader ball or huge rod end = $250+

3 link rear = 4 bushings (nice ones) $50
3 flex or rod ends = $150

whats the problem?

[vetteboy79]

One links w/panhard also have this great built-in automatic steering feature as the axle moves up and down.

[paulkeith]

i've heard they have super awesome antisquat numbers.

[Big91RustyBucket]

I think they are just very unadjustable. You gotta be spot on otherwise they suck.

[OkLaHoMaYJ]

I'm saving a little $$$$ by running 2''x2'' square tubing for my links. I'm making my own bushing sleeves and buying the Poly bushings locally for pretty cheap. The 7/8'' heims or 3/4'' Flex Joints are going to kill me. I found some beefy flex joints, I think RE, with weld in bungs for $60ea. I'll need 8.

[rfr002]

I've done a lot of reading on them too and it seems that the people that really like them are running them front AND rear. The folks that don't seem to be the ones running them just on the rear with leafs up front. In my very uneducated opinion, I think this is because the leafs up front create an unbalance suspension.

The strength question has (and will) be argued to death just like "poo pipe" cages.

[Chrisjeep7]

Originally Posted by OkLaHoMaYJ

I'm saving a little $$$$ by running 2''x2'' square tubing for my links. I'm making my own bushing sleeves and buying the Poly bushings locally for pretty cheap. The 7/8'' heims or 3/4'' Flex Joints are going to kill me. I found some beefy flex joints, I think RE, with weld in bungs for $60ea. I'll need 8.

and a good set of leaf springs will cost just as much. i dont think its that much more $$ in the long run.

think of it this way:

leaf springs wear out every ~ 2-3 years $600 for a quality set.
socks last 4~5 years (nice ones) 4 @ 75$ ~ $300
then throw in ubolts, bushings, track bar ~$300+

Coils springs never die and are free most of the time
socks if using coils ~$300
links wear out but rarely if you buy high quality ones ~$500
if you use coil overs/air shocks they are rebuildable. 4 @ $250 (air shocks)
hardware $100 - 300 (lets say $200)

leafs = $1200
Coils = $1700 (w/ air socks)

yeah my numbers are skewed but its not THAT much more.

[BFJ]

Just punch the numbers into the 3-link calculator and decide for yourself.

edit: you must have excel

3 link

4 link

[oh well]

I have been running a one link in the rear for 2 years now with much success. I went this route due to seeing other people use this and being able to put so much power to the ground as opposed to the leaf springs I had been running. I wanted to do a one link over a four link due to the cost difference, one joint for $80 or 8 joints at $30 and most four link system I have seen are going to bend a lower control arm at some time or another. I have landed hard on my arms and have yet to bend them.

Flex is pretty good, the link system is not the limiting factor, it is more limited by the springs and shocks.


This is the best picture I have showing how I built mine


I have tried to figure how to build a one link in the front and it seems that there is just not enough room on a compact build to properly design one.

[kirbyiv]

Why is it every time i see a pic of a one-link set-up its of the rig either on its side or on its lid. Is it just me or does this say something about how they work?

[OkLaHoMaYJ]

"oh well" I have a few questions for ya.

What square tubing are you using for the one link?

What joint are you using for the one link?

What rear coils are you running?

and can we get a closer shot of your one link?

Thanks if you can help out at all and the rig looks pretty sweet.

[oh well]

Originally Posted by OkLaHoMaYJ

"oh well" I have a few questions for ya.

What square tubing are you using for the one link? 3" x 2" x 3/16" wall

What joint are you using for the one link? Currie 3" joint

What rear coils are you running? Stock TJ front coils

and can we get a closer shot of your one link? I'll have to take a picture tonight.

Thanks if you can help out at all and the rig looks pretty sweet.

Answers above

[OkLaHoMaYJ]

Thanks Oh well...that link design sounds very simple and looks effective. Do you know the bolt size of the 3'' Currie Joint? I know I could look it up but I'm lazy.

[Chrisbuilt]

I'm building a one link with 2x2x.25" square tube, one 1.25" Summit Machine joint, two Firestone 6x23" 14" travel airbags. If it sucks I only have to buy couple more Summit joints and make it a 4 link.

[paulkeith]

Originally Posted by Chrisjeep7

and a good set of leaf springs will cost just as much. i dont think its that much more $$ in the long run.

think of it this way:

leaf springs wear out every ~ 2-3 years $600 for a quality set.
socks last 4~5 years (nice ones) 4 @ 75$ ~ $300
then throw in ubolts, bushings, track bar ~$300+

Coils springs never die and are free most of the time
socks if using coils ~$300
links wear out but rarely if you buy high quality ones ~$500
if you use coil overs/air shocks they are rebuildable. 4 @ $250 (air shocks)
hardware $100 - 300 (lets say $200)

leafs = $1200
Coils = $1700 (w/ air socks)

yeah my numbers are skewed but its not THAT much more.

sHHHHHocks dude, SHOCKS.

if you're talking about spending $600 on a set of leaf springs, you're obviously one who is out to do the thing right. That means not using free junkyard coils, and it also means your link materials alone are going to cost a whole trunk load more than $500. Hell, just 16 shanked flex joints will run you upwards of $1k, not including DOM or inserts. Air "socks" also aren't really gonna cut it on a heavier rig, so coilovers move into the picture. Now you're talking $400 a corner (new), not including coils. Call it 1500 bucks for a set of c/o's if you're lucky and get em used(or a different brand, etc), or $1k for air shocks. That makes it about $3k to link it correctly with c/o, $2500 with air shocks.

On the flip side of that, if you're a guy ok with running junkyard coils and you can (want) to build $500 links, then you can get leaf springs for FREE just as easily. Now your only expense with the leafs is a set of new u bolts, which would run ya bout $60 for the whole vehicle. you also don't need a trackbar with leafs. the only added expense may be a set of traction bars to save your leafies, and if you use NICE parts, that should run ya about $200 for the whole vehicle, and those don't wear out.

by the way, coil springs will wear out just like leaf springs. nothing has an infinite lifetime.

So...if you're going to spend $1200 on leaf, i think you'd be actually spending about $3000 on coils.

If you're goign to spend $1700 on coils, i think you're actually going to spend about $360 on leaf.

Its all about how far you take each design. You can do each one cheap...just don't compare one design's cheap setup to another design's expensive setup. The one link may save you a little $ on link costs, but i think you more than lose that advantage when it comes to adjustability and stability.

[84cj7305]

Originally Posted by kirbyiv

Why is it every time i see a pic of a one-link set-up its of the rig either on its side or on its lid. Is it just me or does this say something about how they work?

maybe its because those guys wheel there stuff.....oh and not to mentin they dont climb under there rigs for pics... htey just build it and wheel it not set it up for a photo shoot every time they work on it

[jesster]

I am seriously considering building a one link out of 2x2x0.25 with a 3" Currie Johnny Joint on the end... I figure a one link won't end up costing much more than building a ladder type antiwrap bar for my current leaf springs, and they both create antisquat anyways.