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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Member # 52953
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 47
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horisontal coilover
I'm looking at mounting the rear coilovers horsontally with a lever arm to connect them to the diff after searching I only found 1 referance
![]() this picture any information on this set up would be helpfull |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Doublewide engineer
Join Date: Sep 2001
Member # 6971
Location: Gulf coast
Posts: 5,904
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Quote:
Just my thoughts while looking at the pic. I saw that heep at a WEROCK comp last year and thought it was a pretty good idea.
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I'm the "tack tack tack" welding nazi. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showp...&postcount=218 ![]() "I didn't mean to kill nobody ... I just meant to shoot the sonofabitch in the head. Him dying was between him and the Lord." R. L. Burnside |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Member # 52953
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 47
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Quote:
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Member # 52953
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 47
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My main concerns are how the lever arm will effect the spring rate and shock valving( I've spoken to a few local racers who couldn't shed much light on this or recomend anyone who is really good at setting up coilovers).
My other main area of concern is the linkage from the diff to the leverarm couple of people sugested bushings |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Member # 83920
Location: What day is it?
Posts: 1,872
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There is quite a bit of actual engineering in an application of this sort. Depending on link the design of the cantilever arm, you could end up with a really sweet setup (one possibility) or a complete POS (a whole lot more likely)
I wouldn't try to emulate a suspension design from a monster truck, because, While I don't know it for a fact, I would imagine they have a lot of rising rate built into the design, to keep the suspension relatively soft at normal ride, but really stiffen the hell out of it at max compression, like right after they clear 2 bent up school buses, and come falling back to mother earth. You can build one with either a rising rate, which would be good for a coil type spring, or a slight falling rate, better for an air shock, or even one with a relatively linear rate, which is what a typical coil spring in a vertical configuration is. If you have the resources, you can get more out of this type of suspension, than any other, but like I said, for any given vehicle/application, there is only going to be a narrow margin between hitting the sweet setup, and the almost infinite number of really fucked up setups. The real trick is in knowing how you want the suspension to behave, and then designing around it. I'd start out with a linear spring rate, or possibly a little bit of rise in the last 25 percent of travel. You don't want too much rise in a crawler design, or it will not allow the tire to stuff. It is more to absorb hard hits (jumping). If you have the time to deal with that, go for it, if not, I'd look into something else. I know a little bit about it, and I wouldn't even consider it, unless I was willing to bring an engineer into the design. Doug
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This isn't meant to be a flame job, but Jesus, do you guys ever read or search? Do you suppose your question has already been answered somewhere? Look it up for your fuckin self. Last edited by dahoyle; 02-02-2008 at 03:37 AM. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Aug 2004
Member # 34900
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,939
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I call the "lever arm" a bellcrank. Seen it on desert trucks and a few other small buggies.
Some reasons for doing it are you can use smaller shocks mounted lower.
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Applying the Beef Treatment Last edited by OnTheSpot; 02-03-2008 at 09:36 AM. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Aug 2007
Member # 98189
Location: Central MN
Posts: 778
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I've done this on a street rod before to get the coilovers behind the grill and out of view, thought about doing it on a buggy, never have though... If you do it, post it up and let us know how it comes out.
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Member # 52953
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 47
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Quote:
cheers Frank |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 49958
Location: Loveland colorado
Posts: 391
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Ive done this on bagged trucks IE: Lowriders,mini trucks ,and a prerunner,Never a crawler If you have room to run them conventional DO IT>>> the engineering is a nightmare to do correctly.Bags are easy because of changing in pressures..Best way if your going only for clearance is to do them 1to1 ratio "think the shape of a boomerang"that way you can run off the shelf valving and keep rates to a minimum..just my 2 cents..Hope it helps
Also the smaller the shock The harder is is on it..Shaft speed,heat,heim load,etc...
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Ive got 18 inches.....of lift that is!! dont get wenzeled!!! Last edited by rednecknate; 02-05-2008 at 10:14 PM. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Member # 83920
Location: What day is it?
Posts: 1,872
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A boomerang shape would work pretty well but can still be either a rising or a falling rate. The thing about that particular link is that the end that the shock is mounted doesn't move in a straight line, but rather an arc. If you set it up with the bellcrank directly in line with the shock at the end of travel, that is going to give you a rising rate. If you set it up past that point, then the spring rate will be falling off as it goes thru the arc past this point. Again, as I said, you don't really want your spring rate to get lower as you run out of shock travel. A little bit would probably be ok, but too much could have disastrous results (suspension bottoming hard).
It would be the easiest to set up and build, and probably the easiest to get right, but you still need to have some idea of what is going on with rate, as you go thru that arc.
__________________
This isn't meant to be a flame job, but Jesus, do you guys ever read or search? Do you suppose your question has already been answered somewhere? Look it up for your fuckin self. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Member # 77930
Location: Kaneohe, HI
Posts: 885
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Back from the dead..... Where can one find suspension theory on this? I understand the concept fine enough, but all the details I'm hazy on.... Does anyone have a book or a link to somewhere that explains it a bit? Everything I search either brings up bridges, low riders or nothing useful in the way of theory.
Last edited by 53guy; 08-27-2008 at 08:53 AM. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Feb 2001
Member # 3191
Location: Stockton, CA USA
Posts: 1,327
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Sept 2008 Petersen's 4-Wheel & Offroad had an article on this subject. Off Road Evolution makes a cantilever kit for JK's. Check out www.offroadevolution.com.
Last edited by Dusty Booger; 08-27-2008 at 10:49 AM. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Member # 110393
Posts: 27
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they use them on rc cars maybe can use some of the ideas from them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIJTT...eature=related they look like they flex good on the small scale but would like to see this applied to a jeep.
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#21 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Member # 104713
Location: NoVA
Posts: 62
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Its also a common setup in open wheeled race cars (F1 and the like). We also used it in Formula SAE (college open wheeled race car design fsae.com), but I didn't actually work on the shock setup so I don't know much about it. One issue would be fading if you did any sort of fast bumps for very long. I dont have much to add, just thought I'd give you a couple other places to look.
EDIT: There are issues with shock travel and wheel travel linearity because of the bellcrank. It was something that was studied on the SAE car, and it only had 1" of wheel travel. Designing a suspension like that basically involves learning machine design (movement of rigid linkages), and then applying it to the shock setup. Here is the book we used: Uicker, Pennock, Shigley, Theory of Machines and Mechanisms, 3rd ed, Oxford Univ Press, 2003 Last edited by 600dollarXJ; 08-27-2008 at 11:04 AM. |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5639
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 5,947
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Ha, I've been working on modeling a cant. lever setting for the rear of my XJ. I've gotten some information from "The Shock Handbook" and Carroll Smith's "Tune to Win". I've been reading quite a bit one it an I'm still fuzzy on the details, but think I've got a hnadle on how to figurout the rate, rising/failing, etc.
I'm just running the shocks on this system and sticking with leaves in the rear. Also check out Eng-tip forums.
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Just Add Lightness I'd rather be simple-and-wrong than complicated-and-wrong. Last edited by Weasel; 08-27-2008 at 11:01 AM. |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Member # 77930
Location: Kaneohe, HI
Posts: 885
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Weasel, I am trying to do the same thing, but I'm thinking of 4 link and coilovers or possibly just shocks as well. Were the books worth purchasing or should I just go to the national library?
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#24 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member # 86044
Location: San Luis Obispo & Avalon, CA
Posts: 515
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I've been toying with the idea in Solidworks for a while now, so no real world experience here, just observation and theory...
I've noticed a few things while working with it: To get the best (most useful) rising rate, the shock must be tangent to the the arc of the cantilever arm at full bump (up-travel). Also, it works best if at full droop (down-travel), the shock is perpendicular to the arc of the cantilever arm. My observation is that the shock attempts to collapse faster at full bump and slower at full droop with this setup, making the rising rate totally obtainable. Soft for the little bumps, stiff for the big hits. I'm still playing with the cantilever pivot vs. the tie rod(cantilever arm -> axle) mount on the axle vs length of tie rod.
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-Jackson Polygoat My XJ makes wierd noises.... my MJ makes scary ones.... '92 XJ 4.0L, 4x4, 4dr Limited pretty much stock... Last edited by IslanderXJ; 08-27-2008 at 11:09 AM. |
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