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Old 01-27-2010, 04:37 PM   #276 (permalink)
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It's not cast.

Dana 70s are nodular iron.
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Old 01-27-2010, 05:54 PM   #277 (permalink)
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I forgot to mention that the harness/shock cage will also surround the fuel cell.
......

In the seats current position, I have 5.5" of head room.


I'm 6'2" and the tallest person who would ever probably ride with me would be 6'5".
The current seat position is way too low for my wife(and she doesn't like that). So I'm gonna at least bump it up a couple inches.

That'll actually help my view some. I might make 2 sets of seats tabs and I'll just bolt and unbolt it the seat on the rare occasion I let her drive.
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Old 01-27-2010, 07:50 PM   #278 (permalink)
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is nodular iron not cast?
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Old 01-27-2010, 07:51 PM   #279 (permalink)
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In the Dana 70 thread, one of the "Pros" was that is wasn't cast like other axles.

Could be wrong.
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Old 01-28-2010, 04:18 AM   #280 (permalink)
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It is still cast, just a different iron type. You still need to preheat, and post heat or it could crack. You might want to look into welding nodular iron.

Here is a little info from a welding site for Nodular Iron.
Nodular Iron is not cast steel; it is cast iron with various alloying materials like Magnesium which cause the excess Carbon to form spheres of nodules rather than long thin flakes.
WRT alloys to use when welding, when Nickel is molten, it can dissolve higher levels of Carbon which are rejected as it cools; this both removes some of the excess carbon from cast iron it is welded to, and provides a shrinkage rate similar to the cast iron. It is also ductile enough to deform during the cooling, preventing stress from building in the joint.
The amount of Chromium and other alloying elements of the filler also need to be considered due to their effect on the hardening properties.
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Old 01-28-2010, 02:05 PM   #281 (permalink)
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Quote:
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My shoulders are around 6" over the top of the seat.
So, the seatback will be up a couple of inches, and in your pics, it looks like it's already a few inches above where you intend to mount the shoulder harness? I believe your harness will really be compressing your spine, and in any kind of jounce will be a real risk to cause a severe compression injury to your back. I believe the anchor point for shoulder harnesses are supposed to be almost directly behind the top of the shoulders.
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Old 01-28-2010, 02:48 PM   #282 (permalink)
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Yeah. I've been reading up on harnesses.

I think I'm gonna have some "hoops" or something come up from the bed some.
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:06 PM   #283 (permalink)
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So, the seatback will be up a couple of inches, and in your pics, it looks like it's already a few inches above where you intend to mount the shoulder harness? I believe your harness will really be compressing your spine, and in any kind of jounce will be a real risk to cause a severe compression injury to your back. I believe the anchor point for shoulder harnesses are supposed to be almost directly behind the top of the shoulders.
I think that only applies to high speed accidents. I don't see how it would compress the spine at low speeds. I could be wrong though.
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:33 PM   #284 (permalink)
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The forces applied from a short drop, since they are a sudden stop can create higher forces than you would think. My mother (yeah, osteoporisis at her age) exploded her lower spine by driving into a ditch when a rear wheel came off a semi trailer and hit her truck. Compression fractures in 4 vertabrae.
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Old 01-28-2010, 06:38 PM   #285 (permalink)
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I've got a little while to figure out the harness stuff.
....................

Got my stuff in from DIY4X

As I thought, the springs are a little too long for the stock hangers.



That's with all the weight of the front on the springs. I've already moved one of the front hangers up almost 3". I'll do the other tomorrow.
I hate rivets.

If that isn't enough, I'll move the back hanger back a little.
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Old 01-30-2010, 09:40 PM   #286 (permalink)
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Looking good. I have some Nickel 99 TIG rod that will work nicely on that 70 housing.

Give me a call tomorrow.. I'll be at the shop from 11am to 2pm or so.
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:51 AM   #287 (permalink)
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not to be sarcastic, but with all that work why arent' you doing a shackle reversal?
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Old 01-31-2010, 11:26 AM   #288 (permalink)
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I've read from alot of people that they prefer a front shackle setup. I plan to eventually link it so I'm not gonna spend that much time on the hangers if I don't have to.

Plus, it wouldn't be that hard for me to do a full shackle reversal in a weekend if I don't like it this way.
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Old 01-31-2010, 04:40 PM   #289 (permalink)
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My life would've been a little simpler if I had just made my front axle have a passenger side diff.

I could've just ran the doubler the way it's supposed to be and not flipped the crawl box and the dana 300.
I can't even remember why I though it would work best as a driver side diff.
Mine is running a pass side front diff and I had some interferrence issues with the driveshaft and TF727 tranny pan. I had to make a super skinny front driveshaft. If it blows up I'll look at running a 2 pc. I think your driver side diff may provide more room for the driveshaft.
Your build is looking good! I'm right behind you with putting a doubler together. I'll be running a 203/D300.

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Old 01-31-2010, 07:58 PM   #290 (permalink)
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I like the idea of a 204/300 doubler.

the 2:1,almost 3:1, and 6:1 would be a great range for me.
.....

I pick up my link tubing tomorrow.
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Old 02-01-2010, 05:09 PM   #291 (permalink)
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I moved the other shackle hanger.


I think the angle should be perfect once it settles some.

It's gonna sit a few inches higher than I was shootin' for, but I can live with it till I link the front.
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Old 02-01-2010, 05:35 PM   #292 (permalink)
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The front spring hangers look like they are in the perfect location...

But with how many bent Main leafs I've seen, and how many friends I have that replace front leafs every year or twice a year. I've kinda just always hated front shackles.

but if you plan to link it later I say run it. It will prevent you from having to go to a long travel slip on the front axle wich is a down side to shackle reversals with the axle wanting to walk away from the T-case.

We also stuck with leafs in my buddys cj-10a but We couldnt make a standerd swing shackle work without z-ing the frame up or modifying the tub so we ended up fabbing up spring sliders like the one's Liquid Iron is selling. Wish a four link was in the budget but ehhh... its not a deal breaker and I think it will work good.

How high are the side bolsters on you lowback baja seats? We trying to figure out seat's for the rig... and damn these tub's are Tight... haha

Your build is moving along sweet keep up the good work... we'll be watching...
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Old 02-01-2010, 07:01 PM   #293 (permalink)
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Yeah to pull off a shackle reversal, with these springs, I would've had to have the perches really angled to work.

I still have to rotate the pinion up some before I weld in the perches.

The bolster come up around 4". I have a 34" waist and a big ass, and they are fit me nice. If I put on 20 lbs, they'd be a little snug. But now that my knees doin' good I'm gettin' back down to fightin' weight.
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Old 02-04-2010, 04:03 PM   #294 (permalink)
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I got a little work done over the last few days.

I built a headache rack for my tow rig. It's not done.



I got to do a little more to it. I'm gonna build a removable "H" for the back of the bed, so I can haul full sticks of tubing.

I'm tired of having them cut in half and having lots of wasted pieces.

I knocked out the basics of my bed "cage" for the harness and shock mounts.




It'll get some gusseting, and I'm thinking about making the top a shelf I can strap stuff to.
The fuel cell will be built to fit right under it.
I'm going to pick up some 2.5" receiver hitch tubing that will be under the be and it will bolt into it so I can still remove the bed.
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:28 PM   #295 (permalink)
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I ended up trimming the floor just a little more.


I had to really cut out a lot to be able to get the drive train level.

It wasn't really a problem in the stock configuration since it didn't have a front driveshaft.

I could of redone the motor mounts to lower the engine some, but the oil pan already hangs down alot.

I've got a ton of room under the t-cases.


I can clock down the front output several inches and and still have a flat belly.

The rear shaft will be 33.5" long and be angled 31* and it current setup. So I'll probably go with a CV.
The front should be fine without one. It's like 4' long and I can lower the front yoke.

The D.D. flipped twinsticks come out right where the seat'll be. So, I'm gonna have to modify them slightly.
.....................
Here's what I've come up with so far on the 4 link.
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I was planning on doing it dual triangulated but the calculator is showing -8* understeer with that setup.

Any advice or ideas?
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Old 02-18-2010, 06:19 PM   #296 (permalink)
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Ignore the 4 link #'s above. I forgot to account for the height of the tires on the frame's height.
I've got it figure out now, and I'll post that up later.
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Made a crossmember for the rear links and rear mount doubler.


It bolts in, but it isn't exactly removable. Since it's inside the channel frame, and the frame starts to neck in before and after it.
But I can unbolt it and slide it back like 5" to remove the t-cases.

I clocked down the Dana 300.


I can still run a flat skid. But I won't be able to use the D.D. Machine flipped twinsticks(so they're for sale now). I'll figure something out.

I cut out a piece to fit over the back cover.


I'll mount a poly bushing to it and it'll bolt to the rear crossmember.
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Old 03-07-2010, 05:12 PM   #297 (permalink)
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Anything ever happen to this? Or the GMC? Bump
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:18 AM   #298 (permalink)
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For those who have been keeping up with this build, I'll fill you in on what's been goin' on:

I was laid off from my day job the last day of Oct. and I've had plenty of free time, but my budget for parts has gone down the crapper.
My audio business has mainly been a way to have extra money for parts and wheeling expenses.

I went to one of the top colleges around here, but with situation around here, I don't have enough experience for any job worth a crap in sales.

I finally said screw it, and decided to start a career path doing something I'll really enjoy.
So, I've started flight school to become a commercial helicopter pilot. Right now I'm in the process of finding a job that's flexible with my flying.

I have a couple things lined out.
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I have made some progress on the Jeep since my last post. I'll post some pics later. I've been busy flying, looking for job, and meeting up with a buddy to get a little bit of machine work done.

It'll be awhile before I can make much progress on the GMC. It's too far away from where I live to work on it often.
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:02 AM   #299 (permalink)
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good luck man, I always wanted to do that too.
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:23 PM   #300 (permalink)
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Sorry I didn't get to take any pics today.

My dog died this afternoon. I know some of you guys will understand that it's a big deal.

She was only 8 months old, she had never gotten into stuff, but while I was making a run to the hardware store she got into a pill bottle.
I got home and she was having a seizure. I took her straight to Animal Hospital, but Houston traffic sucks. Her heart stopped a few minutes after we got there.

My wife and I got her in our first year of marriage; so she's taken it pretty hard.

Funny how a 16 lb. ball of fur grows on ya.
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