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Old 10-22-2009, 03:39 PM   #201 (permalink)
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OK. New situation.

I just got the 231, that I bought, in today. It has a 21 spline input and the CJ10 is 23 spline.

Can I swap the input off the NP198 onto it? Or what?
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:51 PM   #202 (permalink)
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I wouldn't bet on the 198 input working, but who knows. You can get the correct input for the 231, but there are several choices other than just spline count, there were more than one length. I forget where I found the info, but I didn't have to Google too hard.
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:28 PM   #203 (permalink)
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Yeah. It's all on advance adapter site.

I was just curious if I could swap the 198s. I'll get 'em apart soon and look.

If all else fails. I ought to be able to pick one up somewhere. I guess I need to figure out what the one I got came out of, so I know the length and spline type.
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Old 10-23-2009, 12:27 PM   #204 (permalink)
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The tech support at Novak is awesome.

I would need their part#:23LWES It's $165.

The 231 I got is the is the 21 spline short input with early cut gears.

I need the 23 spline long input with early cut gears to swap.
I'm gonna see if I can find a used one, but Novak is always an option.
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Old 10-26-2009, 04:45 PM   #205 (permalink)
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Which set of these springs do ya'll think would work best up front on the CJ10?
-remember it's a little heavier up front than your average jeep.

OLD MAN EMU-CS034RA (OMEJC1A) 5 leaves in pack, 148lbs/inch s.r. 230mm (9.055") free height= Average lift of ~3"
OLD MAN EMU-CS034RB (OMEJC1B) 5 leaves in pack, 148lbs/inch s.r. 205mm (8.07") free height
OLD MAN EMU-CS035RA (OMEJC2A) 4 + 1 overload, 137/257lbs/in s.r. 235mm (9.25") free height
OLD MAN EMU-CS035RB (OMEJC2B) 4 + 1 overload, 137/257lbs/in s.r. 210mm (8.27") free height
OLD MAN EMU- D22XL (OME Add A Leaf) ~ 1" lift on top of their lift packs
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Old 10-26-2009, 04:55 PM   #206 (permalink)
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I think I'd avoid the packs with an overload spring.
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Old 10-26-2009, 05:05 PM   #207 (permalink)
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My bad. I would figure on removing the overloads on those.

I just don't know if the 5 leaf pack would be too over kill. But with some break in, it might be perfect.

I could always pull a leaf on those eventually.
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Old 10-26-2009, 05:17 PM   #208 (permalink)
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You might be better off with the 3" lift spring and pull a leaf. I'd imagine it will sag at least an inch.
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Old 10-26-2009, 07:29 PM   #209 (permalink)
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I'd like to order springs tomorrow. As of now I'm thinkin' the first set.
......
J & W Auto Wreckers, off the board, is awesome. I e-mailed 'em about a 23 spline input Saturday and they responded today. I was able to snag the right input for the 231 for $75 as opposed to $160 new from Novak.

Got my GenRight tube fenders in today.
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I kinda like the no headlight look. Since this isn't going to be street legal...at least anytime soon. I'll just figure out some kind of mount for some kind of flood lights for night wheeling. Not positive how I want to mount 'em yet.
......

I know I've bought some parts out of order, but I got deals I couldn't pass up on.

I've got the cash to go ahead and get the springs. And the next purchase is the Box4Rox doubler kit and flip sticks.

That way I can start figuring out where the links will mount.
Planning 7/8"x7/8" heims at each end with high misalignment spacers since it will be trailered.

I hope to have the front axle put together and mounted within a couple weeks, so I can figure out the ride height for the rear.
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Old 10-30-2009, 03:08 PM   #210 (permalink)
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Well I got laid off today from my day job. I didn't like it there, but I didn't exactly have anything else lined out.

Well now I have time to finish up my builds.

First order of business. Work on a t-case on the coffee table.
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I picked these up from the Matco guy the other day. They work way better than cheapo snap ring pliers.
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I got the 23 spline input in today while I was home early. J & W was awesome. I thought I needed a pre 94 input because what I read about the gear pitch, but that wasn't a problem. They sent the planetary with it, but I check and it fit the original planetary fine.
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You can see the difference in length for the input for an auto.
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The t-case was going back together just fine, but I noticed the snap ring groove on the input wasn't exposed. So I pulled it back apart and saw that the new input's "shoulder" sticks about 1/4" more than the other one. (maybe that's the difference in years)
But I have a friend who can machine it down for me.
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I'm in no rush to get it put back together since I don't have Box4rocks kit yet. It's a good thing I figured out this problem early.
I originally thought I'd be done before the wife got home. Well, maybe she'll feel sorry for me and let it slide.
..........

I ordered the first set of OME springs on the list from earlier. I figure they ought to sag some from the weight of the diesel and I can always pull a leaf.

But I just got a call from 4x4groupbuy.com, and they said that OME has them backorder from Australia till Nov. 27th.
Oh well, I have other stuff I can work on.
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Old 10-30-2009, 03:12 PM   #211 (permalink)
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Wanna sell me your fenders?
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Old 10-30-2009, 03:22 PM   #212 (permalink)
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I originally didn't want to sell 'em. But I don't ever see 'em goin' back on and I have a whole other tug now that I'll probably end up keeping.

I need to think about a fair price and I have another guy who called first dips, that I'd have to check with first. But, yeah, I guess I will sell 'em.
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Old 10-30-2009, 03:26 PM   #213 (permalink)
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First is first.

I have an idea that these might be a good way to finish a project that has been in the back of my mind for a long time - but I have other ways - so by all means, give him first shot.
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Old 10-30-2009, 04:21 PM   #214 (permalink)
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Well I had two packaged show up at work after they let me go. One of my coworkers just brought 'em by.

It would've been nice if I would have know before I spent about $700 last week on parts.

Well maybe I'm glad I already ordered 'em.

Got the super bling PSC springless high steer arms while they were on sale.
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And I got a good deal on a couple sets of rebar rim stiffeners.
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I figured, with all the mud around here, rock rings would suck to clean out.
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:55 AM   #215 (permalink)
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Well, with my free time I got the other tube fender on.
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The bolt on the stock fenders under the battery box took about half an hour to get out and my arm is scratched up pretty bad.

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If anybody wants these shock mounts let me know, or they're gettin' scraped soon.
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Old 11-07-2009, 04:51 PM   #216 (permalink)
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I like cuttin' stuff in half.
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The left overs.
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I just cut it through the back of the door opening with the plasma.

I'll mark it out and use a cut off wheel to get it where I want it.

Where I'll be cutting the tub, the floor will drop off a several inches in front of where I'll weld in the front off the bed. So I'll probably just feel it in level with sheet metal.
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Old 11-09-2009, 06:14 PM   #217 (permalink)
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I had to cut the frame rails to be able to fit the 2x4" .188 wall tubing in.
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I trimmed the GenRight comp cut corners since they wouldn't be up against a door opening.
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What do I need go countersink the new holes I need to drill? I'd like to use the flush mount hardware that came with the corners.

I couldn't reach the other side of the Jeep with my welder, so tomorrow I'm gonna make a 15' or so 220V extension cord.

That should let me cover my whole garage.
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:50 AM   #218 (permalink)
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I don't know how you would clamp these in place and not scratch the hell out of your paint. But I didn't exactly care.
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Since they're designed to go with rocker guards, I'll have to make a small panel to fill up the front of the wheel opening.

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Got both sides cut out. Almost all of the body damage will be covered by the corner guards. So I'm not gonna need to do much body work. I cut the tub even with the beginning of the corner guard all the way down.

Part of the top rail of the beds bent up pretty bad. I think I can cut out a "patch" out of the door opening. It looks like the contour's the same.
It'll be purely cosmetic, but it's a little work to make it look a little better.
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:55 PM   #219 (permalink)
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I made a 15' extension cord for my welder out of some 10 gauge wire, so I was able to weld on the other frame rail.

I finished cutting the bed and sat it in place.
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The rear of the "bed" is sitting a little high. I either need to cut a small notch out of the end of the frame, or I'll make the frame drop a few inches and level back out.

The bed is a little tweaked, but once I make the front wall of the bed, I should be able to straighten it up pretty good.

It looks like I should end up with a 118" wheelbase and pull off the right look I'm goin' for.

I'll definitely have over a 90* departure angle, and it should be close in the front depending on how I do a bumper. I'd like to run a winch, but I don't want to cut into the grill.
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Old 11-11-2009, 10:18 PM   #220 (permalink)
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Hey Tawl-Boy, im new to this site and dont kno really how this works yet! ive been following your build nice work man. I also am building a Cj10a very similar. if u would please i would like to ask ya question and run some ideas by you.
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Old 11-12-2009, 04:10 AM   #221 (permalink)
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coming along, how far forward are you moving your front axle? You were running full hydraulic steering right?
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Old 11-12-2009, 03:09 PM   #222 (permalink)
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I'm moving it up 6" with the xj leaves. I am going full hydro with a 2x8" surplus center double ended ram.
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Old 11-12-2009, 03:20 PM   #223 (permalink)
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Well I decided to cut out the one really banged up spot that will be showing over the corner guards. This would give me a good shot to practice my body work, since it really isn't showing much.
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I cut a patch panel out of the piece of the door opening I cut out.
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Did a billion tacks, spacing 'em out....
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all those weekends of watching the Power Block have paid off.

It came out pretty good. I smoothed out the other dented spots with a hammer and the flat end of a spindle socket(for a dolly).
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It bows in a little, but it was like that from whatever caused the damage. I figure the corner guards will straighten it out when bolted up.

Just a little bit of filler and it should look perfect from the part you'll see over the corner guards.
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Old 11-20-2009, 06:19 PM   #224 (permalink)
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I went ahead and made a truss to mount my uppers for my rear axle.
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It's made out of 1/2". I'll might fill in gaps between the housing and truss with some 3/16" or something, but I think it's fine without it.

I bolted the the front half of the 231 one up to figure out how mount the shifter that came with it.

One of the shifters mounting holes line up perfect on one of the t-case's studs.
And then I made a bracket that used the top two bolts where the t-case adapter mounts to the trans.
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.........
I need to find someone who lives close with some 40-44" tires to let me borrow to setup my suspension.

My front spring should ship on the 27th I think. I'm hoping they won't be too tall. But I can always pull a leaf and french the hangers, if I have to.
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Old 12-07-2009, 11:37 AM   #225 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

Nice work, great pictures, and quick progress!

I hope to get back on my tug project this winter and plan to make many of the same modifications so I am following this closely. Rather than the short pickup like most have done I plan to put a modified YJ tub on my CJ10A frame (buddy has the tug tub and is making a sand dragger out of it on a Scrambler frame) with Chevy springs. The Dana 70 is too wide for where we wheel so I will probably use a Rodeo Dana 44 rear with 4.30 gears and Waggy front.
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