5.3 Jeeps

[Why J?]

What are you guys doing for backup lights with the 4L60e? I'm running a Lokar shifter and the Lokar back up light switch is hookey as shit.

[feelmecummin]

I've read this whole thread a while ago and can't remember what I need to do about the VSS. I know stock they are in the tcase. I'm running a Dana 300 with a 4 to 1 kit. I was thinking some guys put it inthe back of the trans some how.

[Bo185]

Some put them in the adapter which is best if running a non stock GM transfer case ratio.

[waynehartwig]

Originally Posted by Bo185

Some put them in the adapter between the trans and tcase, which is best.

Fixed


If it's an electronic trans, then this is a must. If it's a manual or old school auto, then on the output of the tcase is fine. Because at that point, it doesn't have to be accurate. Just so the PCM knows when the vehicle is moving/stopped is all that's necessary....

[drain_surgen]

need help with my 5.3 the drivers side bank is running real rich and the pass side is just a little lean tried switching the o2 leads but it didnt make any difference any ideas?

[kmkommes]

Originally Posted by drain_surgen

need help with my 5.3 the drivers side bank is running real rich and the pass side is just a little lean tried switching the o2 leads but it didnt make any difference any ideas?

Yeah, quite cluttering this thread with general engine questions unrelated to the actual swapping of an engine in your jeep. 50% of the questions here are not "hardcore" and they probably don't belong. 45% are appropriate questions but have been covered already. The other 5% are actually trying new stuff.

In case you wernt aware, this is the 150 page thread on how to adapt your GM pcm looking for a 40 tooth VSS to whatever transfercase you are running.

[mkeanglorldo56]

Hey guys, just got my lj running this weekend! One weird thing is, when the key is on the run position (before running the engine) the jeeps fuel pump and starter relay, as well as the 5.3 ign. Relay, are making a clicking noise every 4 or 5 seconds. Then when i start it the clicking stops.... if anyone understands what im trying to explain id really appretiate the help. I really wanna take the Frankenstein on vacation next friday

[mkeanglorldo56]

Oh and Novak did the harness/computer. They told me "check the grounds" p.s. the obdII scanner work when i hook that up too. Its a gen iv

[waynehartwig]

Originally Posted by drain_surgen

need help with my 5.3 the drivers side bank is running real rich and the pass side is just a little lean tried switching the o2 leads but it didnt make any difference any ideas?

Try swapping o2 sensors. Physically take them out of the exhaust and swap them.

[drain_surgen]

Originally Posted by waynehartwig:14639886

Try swapping o2 sensors. Physically take them out of the exhaust and swap them.

That fixed it. Do i need to know why or would it just make my head hurt.

[waynehartwig]

Originally Posted by drain_surgen

That fixed it. Do i need to know why or would it just make my head hurt.

It shouldn't have fixed it. It should have changed the results from one bank to the other. Since it fixed it, I'd be looking at wiring. Either that, or the connectors were coroded and you just didn't have a good connection before.

[Why J?]

Im trying to decide if I should go with a different 5.3L. My motor sat for almost a year before I got a hold of it. I filled it with oil, pulled the valve cover and poured some oil in the heads. Turned it over a few times by hand. Did a compression check this morning and got this:

Pass side
1) 120
3) 210
5) 210
7) 210

driver side
2) 180
4) 210
6) 60
8) 60

Then I put some oil in the cylinders and ran the starter for a few minutes, let the motor sit for 2 hrs and retested 4 cycles per cylinder per service manual.

Pass side:
1) 160
3) 190
5) 190
7) 170

Driver side
2) 170
4) 190
6) 190
8) 170

So I do not know much about compression testing, should i take this motor back and get a differnt one or was the low numbers due to sitting for so long?

[Bo185]

Its fine really need to do compression testing on a warm motor to get more accurate readings.

[Why J?]

Originally Posted by Bo185

Its fine really need to do compression testing on a warm motor to get more accurate readings.

I understand that but by the time I am at a stage were it will run my warranty will be up.

[Bo185]

If you have your harness, fuel pump, and PCM tuned you can set it up to run outside the truckr pretty easily.

I wouldn't have bought a motor till ready to install if it came with a warranty.

[Why J?]

Originally Posted by Bo185

If you have your harness, fuel pump, and PCM tuned you can set it up to run outside the truckr pretty easily.

I wouldn't have bought a motor till ready to install if it came with a warranty.

All good points.

I got a smokin deal I couldnt pass up, so it was buy now or more money later. I have evrything else ready to go minus the harness and PCM. I figured that with it sitting so long drained of oil it was dry and the lifters had not pumped up yet or something along those lines giving me low readings. I will check it again in a few days and go from there.

From your posts you know what your talking about so I'm going with its fine.

Thanks for the help.

[kmkommes]

If you do have the option to return your engine now, I would go and talk to them about extending the warranty until you have the engine running and vehicle driveable. I would think they would be reasonable about this. If I were the seller I would give you a reasonable amount of time to get it running, 6 months, not 2-3 years. It's probably easier for the seller to do this then to have to deal with a return and try to resell the engine.

[Why J?]

I spoke with the yard and they have stated that if there is a problem when I get it runnin they will take of out to 6 months or 90 days after install.

I have been retesting it a few times and I am getting very consistent numbers out of it with no more than 15% difference across all cylinders and only 5% difference between a dry and wet compression check. Surprisingly I can not rent or buy a leak down tester in Knoxville.

I think it was just some sticking rings or valves. Seems to have worked it self out.

Originally Posted by kmkommes

If you do have the option to return your engine now, I would go and talk to them about extending the warranty until you have the engine running and vehicle driveable. I would think they would be reasonable about this. If I were the seller I would give you a reasonable amount of time to get it running, 6 months, not 2-3 years. It's probably easier for the seller to do this then to have to deal with a return and try to resell the engine.

[Bo185]

Originally Posted by kmkommes

If I were the seller I would give you a reasonable amount of time to get it running, 6 months, not 2-3 years. It's probably easier for the seller to do this then to have to deal with a return and try to resell the engine.

I wouldn't take a motor after the warrenty ran out, and I have sold these motors and was selling them tell taking a job overseas.

That said your basically on the honor system. Problem is there is no honor anymore.

[Why J?]

Originally Posted by Bo185

I wouldn't take a motor after the warrenty ran out, and I have sold these motors and was selling them tell taking a job overseas.

That said your basically on the honor system. Problem is there is no honor anymore.

I dont buy from people/vendors I do not trust 100%. And he traded me out for another motor with 45,000 fewer miles this morning at his insistance, for my trouble. He said that he didnt want a bad changeover motor out there and he also extended the warranty out to 6 months unlimited miles. I bought the yard guys all pizza for lunch for their trouble.

Hell I eat dinner with this guy and his wife and kids once a month. He is the most trustworthly honest guys I know.

And ill burn his house down if he screws me.

[myjeepsbigger]

Originally Posted by Why J?

Hell I eat dinner with this guy and his wife and kids once a month. He is the most trustworthly honest guys I know.

And ill burn his house down if he screws me.

[Elite13]

was looking at putting a 5.3 out of a donor truck with complete harness and everything. Will it run with the stock harness in a samurai?

[waynehartwig]

Originally Posted by Elite13

was looking at putting a 5.3 out of a donor truck with complete harness and everything. Will it run with the stock harness in a samurai?

My setups will run on a pallet.

[Elite13]

Originally Posted by waynehartwig

My setups will run on a pallet.

guessing you sell them do you have a price?

[waynehartwig]

Originally Posted by Elite13

guessing you sell them do you have a price?

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