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Old 02-12-2009, 03:07 PM   #151 (permalink)
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Wow I was just searching for it and the site never came up in the search thanks
John took great care of me on mine and I highly recommend him!! Very clean and detailed....
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Old 02-12-2009, 03:18 PM   #152 (permalink)
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How about some more pics of 5.3s in yj's prefferably??? I see they are dirt cheap and I am really thinking I will switch to one in the later future. However start the research process now and dream
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Old 02-12-2009, 09:00 PM   #153 (permalink)
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How did any of you using stainless steal braided fuel hose attach the line to the stock fuel trail? Do you have any pics?

Right now I'm using generic high pressure rubber fuel hose and I need to up grade. I would hate to see all this hard work burning on fire

Also if any of you have used Auto meter gauges which ones work for the 4.8,5.3 and 6.0L? It would be great to score some part #'s for all the gauges!

Thanks, Jay
I cut off thue end and used a standard AN fitting works fine.
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Old 02-12-2009, 09:07 PM   #154 (permalink)
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lol it was cool Didn't have any choice with the coil combination I had....
That's an 8' door off to the right there...


And no, it doesn't sit that high anymore.....
Sorry off thread but how do you l,ike the coil overs on the back of that jeep?
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Old 02-13-2009, 12:37 AM   #155 (permalink)
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r

1 info ; i'd like to swap to 5.7 LS1 manteining manual trans with 60 axle front and rear and 37 bogger. Whith solution is best : 5.7 + NV3550+ 231 ( 32 spline output and may be HD with 6 planetary and wide chain) or 5.7 + NV 4550+ 231 or 5.7+NV4550+DANA 300 ( i want max reduction 3:1). Thanks
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:16 AM   #156 (permalink)
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I wouldn't put a NV3500 behind an LS1, it's just not strong enough. The NV4500/D300 would be a better choice.

Are any of you building up these 5.3's, or just leaving them stock with an exhaust and tune? I know LS1s make more power, but anything with "LS" goes for big money and these truck motors are a dime a dozen.
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:46 AM   #157 (permalink)
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I started a thread in the Jeep Non-Hardcore section but didnít get much response. Thanks LCAC Man for the one response.

I have a 97 TJ with a 2003 5.3L Chevy in it. The tach is an Autometer. I donít know the manufacturer of the engine harness. I bought the Jeep with this configuration but the tach is not hooked up.

My question is; does anyone know where to tap into the wiring harness to get the tach signal? Do I need a plug in device?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Pictures are worth a million words in my case.

LCAC Man said for a 2001 it is on the PCM C2 pin 10 white wire and to switch to the 4cyl position on the tach. Is this the same for the í03?

Thanks
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:52 AM   #158 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by chris demartini View Post
Are any of you building up these 5.3's, or just leaving them stock with an exhaust and tune? I know LS1s make more power, but anything with "LS" goes for big money and these truck motors are a dime a dozen.
Just picked up my 5.3 on Tuesday, leaving it stock, and having a tune done when I send the PCM out. I think 300hp will be plenty for a 3000 lb Flatty!
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:53 AM   #159 (permalink)
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pedals and gauges

The motor im putting in is the wired pedal , just wondering what you guys did for pedal assemblies. Also is it possible to use the factory gauges? Oh and I'm putting the 6.0 in a 79cj7 w/ 4L80 and d300. Any help would be great
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Old 02-13-2009, 06:58 AM   #160 (permalink)
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Just picked up my 5.3 on Tuesday, leaving it stock, and having a tune done when I send the PCM out. I think 300hp will be plenty for a 3000 lb Flatty!
My buggy is probably going to come in around 3500 give or take, my current dinosuar TPI motor with cam and tune puts out about 300. I'm thinking I need around 400 at least. I know with an LS1 I can get there with just a cam, exhaust and tune but what does a 5.3 need to hit those numbers?
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Old 02-13-2009, 07:01 AM   #161 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by chris demartini View Post
My buggy is probably going to come in around 3500 give or take, my current dinosuar TPI motor with cam and tune puts out about 300. I'm thinking I need around 400 at least. I know with an LS1 I can get there with just a cam, exhaust and tune but what does a 5.3 need to hit those numbers?
I asked the same thing in general 4x4 chris............They told me lots of money and forced induction. I thought I had seen several guys with 5.3s and 400 horsies but I guess not
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Old 02-13-2009, 07:06 AM   #162 (permalink)
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My buggy is probably going to come in around 3500 give or take, my current dinosuar TPI motor with cam and tune puts out about 300. I'm thinking I need around 400 at least. I know with an LS1 I can get there with just a cam, exhaust and tune but what does a 5.3 need to hit those numbers?
This is the HO all aluminum version, but some ideas, or just give it a 100 shot!
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ine/index.html
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Old 02-13-2009, 07:06 AM   #163 (permalink)
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I don't think forced induction is necessary. The 5.3 only has 20 less cubic inches than the LS1. I'm sure it could be done with just heads & cam but which combination?
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Old 02-13-2009, 07:15 AM   #164 (permalink)
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This dude put an LS6 intake and LS1 cam and injectos on his 5.3L. Wonder if he ever dynoed it though?
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/lt...lm7-5-3-a.html
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Old 02-13-2009, 07:20 AM   #165 (permalink)
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I don't think forced induction is necessary. The 5.3 only has 20 less cubic inches than the LS1. I'm sure it could be done with just heads & cam but which combination?
I agree but I am nowhere near familiar with these motors-----------Kyle
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Old 02-13-2009, 08:05 AM   #166 (permalink)
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This dude put an LS6 intake and LS1 cam and injectos on his 5.3L. Wonder if he ever dynoed it though?
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/lt...lm7-5-3-a.html
Not sure why you would want an LS6 intake unless you just need hood clearance. The truck intake makes much torque than any of the other intakes.
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Old 02-13-2009, 08:18 AM   #167 (permalink)
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Not sure why you would want an LS6 intake unless you just need hood clearance. The truck intake makes much torque than any of the other intakes.
Information to back that up please?
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Old 02-13-2009, 08:57 AM   #168 (permalink)
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Information to back that up please?
just general info, just check out the 2 links below and look at the engine dyno spec with and without the truck intake.

http://www.turnkeyenginesupply.com/

http://www.mastmotorsports.com/
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Old 02-13-2009, 09:13 AM   #169 (permalink)
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According to Dyno runs on stock LS1 done by Turnkey Engr. Engines with truck intakes make about 25ft lbs more torque than the same motor with an LS intake. Now, you do give up about 10hp, but big HP in not the most important thing in a Jeep unless all you are doing is wide open hill climbs.
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Old 02-13-2009, 10:02 AM   #170 (permalink)
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PM me about the coilovers - this isn't the thread... But I like them

The 5.3 is part of the LS family and the only difference is the block is made of cast iron instead of AL. In stock form, the 5.3 easily puts out 330 hp - at the wheels. I've seen dozen of dyno charts and they are all right in there, give/take 5hp. So 400 hp should be fairly easy to do without any forced induction or nitrous.

From what I've read, the LS6 and truck intakes are the best flowing of the OEM's. The LS1 is one of the worst.

I'm seeing people swapping in LS6 intakes and Z06 cams - though I'm not seeing any dyno charts.....

The 5.3 I picked up (08 Sierra) has the Z06 heads on it from the factory - 243 is the casting number, they have the D shaped exhaust ports, and springs. I'm not sure about the sodium filled/hollow valves, though, as I'm not sure how to check that... I hear a lot of this about the newer 5.3's coming from the factory with these heads on it... Also, these are the better casting heads with the triangles under the spark plugs. From what I understand, these are the best OEM production heads as far as flow numbers. They also have a smaller combustion chamber.

LS1Tech.com is a good source for this info....
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Old 02-13-2009, 11:08 AM   #171 (permalink)
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ls1tech has a lot of good info if your looking to boost the power. Read the stickies under the external and internal gen III sections. Pretty much all the info will transfer to the 4x4 world but the cams that are mostly talked about are for the upper rpm ranges. But they've also have a few good torque cams discussions on the stickies..
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Old 02-13-2009, 11:06 PM   #172 (permalink)
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The motor im putting in is the wired pedal , just wondering what you guys did for pedal assemblies. Also is it possible to use the factory gauges? Oh and I'm putting the 6.0 in a 79cj7 w/ 4L80 and d300. Any help would be great
For the pedal, I welded a bracket to mine so it bolts in higher up next to the steering column. I also fabbed a new pedal arm so it would be longer- I didn't like the short throw pedal. Wanted to keep about the same throw and position as the stock CJ pedal.

I know there's a way to use stock gauges...just don't remember the link. I'm using all VDO.
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Old 02-14-2009, 03:43 AM   #173 (permalink)
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I know there's a way to use stock gauges...just don't remember the link. I'm using all VDO.
Not sure about the stock stuff, but the VDO tach needs a pull-up circuit. You will also need to know how your ECM is programmed to set the tach for 4 or 8 cyl.

Good luck.
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Old 02-14-2009, 10:43 AM   #174 (permalink)
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I started a thread in the Jeep Non-Hardcore section but didnít get much response. Thanks LCAC Man for the one response.

I have a 97 TJ with a 2003 5.3L Chevy in it. The tach is an Autometer. I donít know the manufacturer of the engine harness. I bought the Jeep with this configuration but the tach is not hooked up.

My question is; does anyone know where to tap into the wiring harness to get the tach signal? Do I need a plug in device?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Pictures are worth a million words in my case.

LCAC Man said for a 2001 it is on the PCM C2 pin 10 white wire and to switch to the 4cyl position on the tach. Is this the same for the í03?

Thanks
Hunt


not a very good answer but the shop that wired up my motor used a white wire in the factory wireharness coming directly off the motor under the plastic vortec cover....hooked it up to an aftermarket gauge
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Old 02-14-2009, 11:23 AM   #175 (permalink)
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Autometer makes a tach adapter (part number 9117 for $70) that splices into either the right or left bank coils and gives you a 4ppr output to feed a standard 8 cyl tach.
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