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Old 03-04-2009, 07:11 AM   #201 (permalink)
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Nice exhaust..........that is exactly what I am planning for mine. Is that dual 2.5"s into a 3" outlet?
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Old 03-04-2009, 07:16 AM   #202 (permalink)
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Hey LCAC_MANm what are you doing for a vss, are you using one? If so, in the tail housing of the tcase or between the trans and tcase ? Do people have problems with an electric trans and them shifting when in 4 low because of the vss being located in the tailhousing of the tcase? I heard that the pcm thinks the rig is going 100mph in 4 low while really going 5mph ? anybody heard of this?
I'm using the stock rear housing NP241 VSS sensor/placement. I've never heard of the problem you mention, but, it does make sense that the pcm wouldn't take in account the low range of the t-case if the VSS was coming from the input side of the T-case.
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:18 AM   #203 (permalink)
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5.3's

OK - -put up with me for one more stupid question. I am looking to do this same motor/tranny swap in my tj. I was just wonder what kind of expense I am looking at other than the motor and tranny itself. What did you guys spend on motor mounts, wiring harness .....

I can affor the motor now but just didn't know what other cost I would encounter??? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:29 AM   #204 (permalink)
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OK - -put up with me for one more stupid question. I am looking to do this same motor/tranny swap in my tj. I was just wonder what kind of expense I am looking at other than the motor and tranny itself. What did you guys spend on motor mounts, wiring harness .....

I can affor the motor now but just didn't know what other cost I would encounter??? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Wiring harness/ecm: $300- $1500 depending on who you go with. I prefer Howell and they run about $1000

Engine mounts: if you make your own, about $50, premade(such as advance adapters) about $150-$200

T case adapter: about $550. You can find these used for alot less, and I just happen to have one for sale(shameless plug)

radiator: you can get a universal griffin for around $200 and have a shop make brackets for it for around $50.. OR you can spend $400+ on a bolt in, ready to go radiator.

Tranny shifter: figure $200 on the high side of the scale

Gauges: figure $500+ for aftermarket gauges

Misc: figure another $500 for misc. stuff.. hose clamps, fuel fittings and other ods and ends will nickle and dime you
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:30 AM   #205 (permalink)
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OK - -put up with me for one more stupid question. I am looking to do this same motor/tranny swap in my tj. I was just wonder what kind of expense I am looking at other than the motor and tranny itself. What did you guys spend on motor mounts, wiring harness .....

I can affor the motor now but just didn't know what other cost I would encounter??? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Beyond the cost of the motor/trans/t-case I'd say you're looking at another $1500 if you are willing to do alot of the work. Motor mount kits run $175-$300, Wiring harness can range from $100 (DIY) to $750 for a custom built piece. You've got PCM tuning, fuel system, exhaust, cooling system, and drivetrain/driveline mods to consider as well.
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Old 03-04-2009, 09:20 AM   #206 (permalink)
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I kept it as tight to the bell-housing as I could (it will all be heat wrapped as well), it is completely above the bottom of my frame rails, however you have to keep in mind that I elevated the trans/t-case and did some floor surgery to make that happen.
I like the way that looks a lot better than going up and around the oil pan. I changed mine on my Rubicon when it had the 4.0, too.

What headers are those? They look really nice as well. I'm really looking forward to building up this motor in the years to come and am looking at the accessories right now
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Old 03-04-2009, 09:26 AM   #207 (permalink)
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OK - -put up with me for one more stupid question. I am looking to do this same motor/tranny swap in my tj. I was just wonder what kind of expense I am looking at other than the motor and tranny itself. What did you guys spend on motor mounts, wiring harness .....

I can affor the motor now but just didn't know what other cost I would encounter??? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I'll be into mine about $7k -
$2500 motor, trans, wiring, PCM, bolt on accessories
$1200 gauges/wideband o2
$500 for the custom harness (Speartech - John is awesome!)
$400 for HP Tuners (PCM tuning software)...
$2000 for upgraded sun shield (internal tranny part), tranny/tcase adapter, tranny output shaft, motor mounts, AL radiator, SPL fan, etc.

Then you have littler things like exhaust, fuel, power steering, etc. Smaller in $'s, but they add up quick.
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Old 03-04-2009, 09:45 AM   #208 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies you all! Looks like I need to save some coin.
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Old 03-04-2009, 09:51 AM   #209 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies you all! Looks like I need to save some coin.
I didn't do mine on the cheap. There were ways I could have saved money, but didn't. I bought everything, instead of making them - for one. Two, I would bet my 3 row CSF radiator would have been enough to cool the V8, but bought a $600 AL radiator instead. I could have kept the OEM gauges and ran two computers, but I didn't. I could have got an older motor and saved money there, but I didn't - I bought a motor/trans that was out of 6 month old 2008 Sierra with under 5k miles on it.

I think it could be done closer to $3k than $7k. Just depends on how much work you want to do yourself.
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Old 03-04-2009, 11:56 AM   #210 (permalink)
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What headers are those?
Company called OBX, application is a 03-05 Escalade if I remember right. Got them on Ebay.
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Old 03-04-2009, 07:59 PM   #211 (permalink)
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Okay, I've hit a wall. I'm running Ford 60's front and rear. I have a 5.3, SM465 and an Atlas 3.8 w/ driver's drop. The bell housing I ended up with is out of an '85 K5 Blazer with an external slave.

The problem: The Atlas shifter mounting rod hits the tranny unless I clock the t-case flat. If I clock it flat, the driveline is about an inch below the slave at sprung weight, so it will take out slave as soon as drivers front wheel flexes at all.

My question: Anybody have any ideas about what bellhousing and internal slave I can run? If so, that would help me tremendously, otherwise I'm looking at about $2K-3K for a 700R4 that will work. Rather not run an auto and rather not spend $3K that I do not have. Any help appreciated!!
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Pick up your trash you nancy little bastards or sell that shit and go buy a fawkin low rider so you can be around more of your own kind! :flipoff:

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Old 03-04-2009, 09:01 PM   #212 (permalink)
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Okay, I've hit a wall. I'm running Ford 60's front and rear. I have a 5.3, SM465 and an Atlas 3.8 w/ driver's drop. The bell housing I ended up with is out of an '85 K5 Blazer with an external slave.

The problem: The Atlas shifter mounting rod hits the tranny unless I clock the t-case flat. If I clock it flat, the driveline is about an inch below the slave at sprung weight, so it will take out slave as soon as drivers front wheel flexes at all.

My question: Anybody have any ideas about what bellhousing and internal slave I can run? If so, that would help me tremendously, otherwise I'm looking at about $2K-3K for a 700R4 that will work. Rather not run an auto and rather not spend $3K that I do not have. Any help appreciated!!
No help here, but that was one of the many reasons I dumped my manual for the 4L60E... Love the stick, but it really seemed easier to make the auto work. With all the flexibility I'll have with the auto and tuning, I'm liking the swap better. Of course I haven't driven it yet, so I can't give any real answers there....

Call AA and talk to Vic or Theaten (sorry if I mispelled it - the htought was there!). They'll know better...
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Old 03-09-2009, 07:09 AM   #213 (permalink)
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Okay, I've hit a wall. I'm running Ford 60's front and rear. I have a 5.3, SM465 and an Atlas 3.8 w/ driver's drop. The bell housing I ended up with is out of an '85 K5 Blazer with an external slave.

The problem: The Atlas shifter mounting rod hits the tranny unless I clock the t-case flat. If I clock it flat, the driveline is about an inch below the slave at sprung weight, so it will take out slave as soon as drivers front wheel flexes at all.

My question: Anybody have any ideas about what bellhousing and internal slave I can run? If so, that would help me tremendously, otherwise I'm looking at about $2K-3K for a 700R4 that will work. Rather not run an auto and rather not spend $3K that I do not have. Any help appreciated!!

Cool, got it running and it came down to a missing fuse!!!! Now on tho the next issue!
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Pick up your trash you nancy little bastards or sell that shit and go buy a fawkin low rider so you can be around more of your own kind! :flipoff:
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:21 PM   #214 (permalink)
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UPDATES ANYBODY???
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:35 PM   #215 (permalink)
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UPDATES ANYBODY???
I just finished putting the fenders/grille back on mine. All of the fluids are in. Still need to do exhaust, finish wiring, AC hoses, and build dash/install gauges. Tomorrow or Thursday (depending on availability of trailer) it will go into the exhaust shop. Tomorrow or Thursday I should be able to button up the AC lines. I can see all of the vitals on my laptop through the OBDII port, so the dash/gauges aren't a high priority to start/drive the thing. Friday I should get the rest of the wiring done and be able to take it for a shakedown run over the weekend. Right now I'm going to head out and finish up the shifter mounting bracket on the trans and build a new tranny mount.

Oh, and I still need to locate all of the canister, etc off the truck that this motor came from. Yard doesn't have any of it, so I'm going to end up ordering it.

Of course there is still some little I's and T's to dot and cross, like reinstall the cage, console, etc.
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:50 PM   #216 (permalink)
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I just finished putting the fenders/grille back on mine. All of the fluids are in. Still need to do exhaust, finish wiring, AC hoses, and build dash/install gauges. Tomorrow or Thursday (depending on availability of trailer) it will go into the exhaust shop. Tomorrow or Thursday I should be able to button up the AC lines. I can see all of the vitals on my laptop through the OBDII port, so the dash/gauges aren't a high priority to start/drive the thing. Friday I should get the rest of the wiring done and be able to take it for a shakedown run over the weekend. Right now I'm going to head out and finish up the shifter mounting bracket on the trans and build a new tranny mount.

Oh, and I still need to locate all of the canister, etc off the truck that this motor came from. Yard doesn't have any of it, so I'm going to end up ordering it.

Of course there is still some little I's and T's to dot and cross, like reinstall the cage, console, etc.

Excellent, sounds like it is coming along nicely. Defeintly get some pics posted up. Where did you guys get your engines from ? Local Yards?
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Old 03-10-2009, 06:05 PM   #217 (permalink)
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ls1

I run a 02 5.7 LS1 w/NV4500. cable throttle, pcm by Spareecm. Smog legal here in Ca. d300 4:1 d60/14 bolt Chromoly detroits 40 mtrs.
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:56 PM   #218 (permalink)
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Hey LCAC_MANm what are you doing for a vss, are you using one? If so, in the tail housing of the tcase or between the trans and tcase ? Do people have problems with an electric trans and them shifting when in 4 low because of the vss being located in the tailhousing of the tcase? I heard that the pcm thinks the rig is going 100mph in 4 low while really going 5mph ? anybody heard of this?
Yes, I run through this.
It`s a Lq4(6.0) with 4L60E and NP241 on my 89 Wagoneer.
Finally what I did...I just drilled a hole in the rear of the 4L60E and plugged the VSS. I used an NP241 40 tooth VSS pinion, wich I fabricated an internal bushing with 2 parker bolts that ties everything to the output shaft of the transmission. In other words, I just made a home version of the AA reluctor ring (search their web). Now it shifts perfect in high or low range).
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:53 PM   #219 (permalink)
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Alright thanks for helping me get that straightend out, if i run into problems when doing my swap ill give that a try.
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Old 03-10-2009, 08:55 PM   #220 (permalink)
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Well, got mine running, but I have to do something different with bellhousing. I'm going to run an internal slave and a different bell housing. Waiting on AA for headers and a new PS pulley from ASP as stock was too big. Once I get pulley on I can mount belt and hoses and air cleaner. Once bellhousing is done, I can mount t-case and put all the drive train back together and get drivelines measured and made. Other than that, just a couple of wiring gremlins on lights and a new brake line. Anyone running stock fuel pump? My motor fires fine with it, and I have an in line, just curious. Anyway, that's where mine is at right now.
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Pick up your trash you nancy little bastards or sell that shit and go buy a fawkin low rider so you can be around more of your own kind! :flipoff:
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Old 03-11-2009, 02:51 PM   #221 (permalink)
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Anybody on here running a 5.3, SM465 and an Atlas with Ford 60's? If so what did you do for bellhousing and clutch? only thing keeping me from finishing.
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91 YJ, 5.3, TH400, Atlas 3.8, 35 spl 60's f&r

Pick up your trash you nancy little bastards or sell that shit and go buy a fawkin low rider so you can be around more of your own kind! :flipoff:
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Old 03-11-2009, 07:33 PM   #222 (permalink)
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Anybody on here running a 5.3, SM465 and an Atlas with Ford 60's? If so what did you do for bellhousing and clutch? only thing keeping me from finishing.
I'm putting an LS1/sm465/atlas in my TJ with a ford d60 front. I'm using the stock aluminum bellhousing that came with the sm465, 02 or later 6.0 truck flywheel with the stock sm465 clutch. The throwout bearing & flywheel were a bitch to find but I got it all together. It doesn't start yet but everything went together fine. Here's a list:

stock sm465 bellhousing
pilot bearing - BRG6302VSP43(NAPA)
novak slave cylinder kit
stock sm465 clutch
02 or later 6.0 truck flywheel
throwout bearing - Timken 1377C
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:13 PM   #223 (permalink)
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I don't remember what thread it was that someone was wanting an update on keeping the OEM shifter with the 4L60E...

Well, update..

It won't work. I don't have all of the gears. From park to reverse is longer of a throw than the Jeep. So to go P to R, you actually move the shifter from P to N. From there on out it's all the same, but you only have access to PRND3 and not PRND321. But you can go from 3 to R without pushing the button...

Otherwise it works/looks great But I'll probably end up with a different shifter so I can keep it in 1st when needed.
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Old 03-12-2009, 01:15 PM   #224 (permalink)
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This is the drivetrain I went with, it's going behind the 6.0.

Hydrauling bellhousing - SM465 - NP205 Adapter - NP241



The most expensive part (other than the motor) of the entire drivetrain is the damn SYE for the 241.

Last edited by Giviner; 03-12-2009 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 03-12-2009, 08:46 PM   #225 (permalink)
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Have you checked with AA? The 5.3 never had a manual behind it. It requires a different flywheel and pilot bearing. I am running the 5.3/NV4500 and bought the kit from AA for about $1000. Ouch tuff lesson.
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