In tank fuel pump for mopar mpfi - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 08-14-2002, 08:31 AM   #1 (permalink)
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In tank fuel pump for mopar mpfi

Well the inline pump finally calfed as per many other people's results :0/

I used to have instructions and parts list for how to mix and match jeep parts to get an in tank pump in my '79 cj7. I "think" it involved the tank from an 87 yj that had the 4 cyl and tbi (steel tank - plastic one doesn't fit the cj frame rails) with sender / pickup. Then installing the pump from a 93 w/ 4.0 HO? Can anyone verify this for me? I need to get this thing up and running (daily driver) and would rather do the mod now rather than reinstall another (bound to fail) in line pump. Barring this, does anyone have the numbers for a good replacement inline model?

Thanks in advance folks.

Rob (hates buses with a passion ;0)
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Last edited by McJeep; 08-14-2002 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 08-14-2002, 08:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Get the tank from a 1990 YJ 4 banger w/TBI. It will have the low pressure pump in there, trash it, get the pump from any 4.0L w/MPI and the bracket that holds it to the sending unit, now you have all the parts just put um together and make it work, mine does.

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Old 08-14-2002, 08:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The 15 gallon tank from the YJ 4cyl will work, then just get a pump from a 4.0L like you said, and it's a fairly easy graft onto the TBI sender. I'm running it for my TPI.

What he said ^

BTW, your filler lines will be on the wrong side, but you'll still need longer lines if you turn it around.

Bryan

Last edited by Oxjockey; 08-14-2002 at 08:43 AM.
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Old 08-14-2002, 09:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Oxjockey
BTW, your filler lines will be on the wrong side, but you'll still need longer lines if you turn it around.
Doh! thanks for the reminder...forgot all about that "little" detail

Finally found my notes on it (in a verrrry buried archive of an old hard drive) and they say the same. Guess I know what I'm doing tonight :0/ The yj filler was on the opposite side but still used the same filler mount bracket correct? then all I'll have to add is some alumionum to cover up the old hole on the right side. Fawk it...just cover it up with the license plate fer now.

One other question, does the yj sender work the same as my cj one or is the signal to the fuel guage gonna be screwed.

Thanks much for the verification guys
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Old 08-14-2002, 10:06 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Gauge will be reversed.

Bryan
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Old 08-14-2002, 10:27 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Oxjockey
Gauge will be reversed.Bryan
Hah! No problem, I can deal with that as long as I have some indication. Should keep the passengers on their toes LOL

Thanks agin munn
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Old 08-15-2002, 07:05 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I helped a fellow with suggestions and advice on this problem last year ... with some sucesss ...
I came up with the idea of reversing the wires that come off the YJ's sender wiper to reverse the OHM output to make it compatable with a CJ's gauge.
There is a small difference in values however but I believe this can be corrected by compairing the two different sender's values using an in-line resistor to correct.

My CJ gauge article


Quote:
Originally posted by McJeep


Hah! No problem, I can deal with that as long as I have some indication. Should keep the passengers on their toes LOL

Thanks agin munn
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Old 08-15-2002, 10:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hmmm, that makes sense Jaffer (fawk...mah navy tech days comin back to haunt me aaarggggg ;0)

However, looks like I've got a bigger (read more expensive) problem to deal with now

Got started doing the tank swap tonight (the pump swap is amazingly quick and painless - STRONGLY recommend to anyone still running inline). Anyway, started tearing things out and wanted to verify power prior to getting into it...no power at the pump with the key on :0/ Never did wire up the check engine light so caint use that for codes (stoooopid agin :0/) So looks like I need to wait till my mech buddy gets home from camping so's I can borrow his drb2 to read the codes. Inline FI fuse is fine, just no power to the fuel pump when the key is on.

Anything I've missed here?

At least I had the smarts to realize I was beat, put the tools away, close the garage door, and hit the beerfridge!

Also, the fact that I may have not needed to get the other tank and pump is moot as I wanted to do the upgrade anyway. (good thing "she" doesn't read this stuff

edit: BTW Jaffer - super write up...always nice to see that kinda detail on things. Makes the niggly shyt sooo much easier
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Old 08-16-2002, 07:58 AM   #9 (permalink)
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You might want to check the relay, they go bad at the strangest times. Just my .02
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Old 08-16-2002, 09:04 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Which relay? I checked the power (gr wire w/ black stripes) right back at the computer but no juice. I'm really hoping that nothing has happened to the 'puter

Have an email into Benny at Hesco...any and all suggestions are appreciated guys. LOL, if this is a real expensive fix I may end up having to finally get the trail rig finished so's it can play daily driver till the daily....awwww fawk

Started the week with 3 cars...down to 1 now...this isn't boding well for the holidays
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Old 08-16-2002, 09:15 AM   #11 (permalink)
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A good in line pump

I've been running a pump from an 89 ford pu for 3 yrs now, never let me down. about $80 at any parts store with a lifetime warranty.

I know- these pumps push better than pull but it's easy to get to if i need to and i've never needed to. Lots of conversion shops in this area use them with good results too.

I just went to a fuel cell so My pump is now gravity fed except for the really steep inclines, before that it was pulling.

By the way- feeding a 5.2 mag
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