12-15
As you all can see the heater box is too close to the turbo hence the nice hole in the side of my original core box.
Solution.
Redrill all holes 5/8 - 3/4" further towards the fender. weld two washers onto the metal supprt bracket on the fiberglass core box closest to the engine. fill the old holes with silicon. notch the blowemotor box and trim the edge closest to the hood hinge...... net gain 3/4" mor eclearance which results in 1-1/2 inches between the turbo and the heater box. plenty of room. then take the resistor cut the fiberglass heater box to that you can slide the resistor 2.5-3" higher than it is currently. us a piece of Galvanized flashing 3"x5" $.10 at your local hardward store 4 self tapping screws cut the correct size hole for the resistor in the Galv falshing. remember to seal the shingle to the side of the fiber glass box. then use four self tappers to hold it in place now your wiring is up and away from the exhaust pipe and the turbo is far enough away from the heater box
The hydraulic clutch is pissing me off........ ive got three differend holes in the pedal already i have tried three different master cylinders. i have a giant hole in my firewall and so far the (leverage is not enough) effort required is too much to achieve the desired travel if i move the master cylinder up the pedal to achieve the correct pedal effort and elverage it results in insufficient travel.
So i am going to put off the hydraulic clutch system for awhile. Deal with all the other fun stuff for now
Radiator should show up tomorrow
What is really interesting.
my dash was stamped with Dec 13 1978, my heater was stamped with Dec 13 1978, i have found a few other items stamped with this date. appearently Dec 13 exactly 30 years ago some or all of the jeep was getting assembled. in a way kind of fitting that on Dec 13 2008 i was finding all this stuff
fuel tank plan:
taking an old trailquest tank i bought off here and modifying it it is 26x26x8" which translates to 23 gallons had to cut it open anyways to do some work so i am stretching the tank sides to 11.5" all said and done i am adding a little more width ect i should come out with 7800 cubic inches so around 34 gallons in a package that i can weld brackets to and bolt up to my frame fairly easily hopefully it works out. seemed like the cheapest route right now
For brackets on the radiator since it is aluminium and i dont have a tig i will 2 part HD expoxy them local radiator shop said that is pretty common with the aluminium radiators.
The brackets to hole the radiator will be 1/8" thick aluminium 12" long broken into a 90* bend with a 1-3/4 lip and a 2" lip. you could probably get some 2" angle and make it work also. i may end up doing that its all up in the air. hope to finish sealing the cowl and then tighten up some stuff this weekend and get it into the exhaust shop on monday then hopefully to the AC shop Tuesday.
FYI do not epoxy the radiator brackets. go get it tigged. the epoxy is more of a headache than the radiator shop made it out to be it doesnt cure right half the time and then on top of that if you ever thought about welding the brackets on the epoxy is contamination that prevents a clean weld. Also even after 4 days the epoxy may be hard but isnt fully set up resulting in brackets slightly moving
for a battery i used a 9AGM49
it has 1120 CA and 960 CCA close enough to 1000 CCA for me and its height is ideal for this application. i made a tray from some angle i had laying around and welded it into the jeep I know i should have boled it but i got a little ancy.
the tray is 13-7/8" x 6-7/8" a little ponding on the inner fender and i think i got it to mount up well enough
i used a 72" battery cable to get from the battery to the starter on the driverside
The lower radiator hose was a PITA so a sleeve, a little rubber cememnt and two radiator hoses married together gave me the right angles to clear the serpantine belt and still get to the water outlet on the radiator.
i used the stock dodge lower radiator hose for the 90* 2-1/4 to 2" reductiona nd angle then i got a goodyear hose part number 61559 that has an S curve cut the hose with the s curve slide a piece of tubign inside it to make it riggid then put rubber cement all on the outside of the S curved hose and slipped it into the 2" hose. tight fit let it cure and so far so good
bad angle but it does clear the serpantine belt
Oh yes one other thing it did drive in and out of the garage under its own power. no clutch still but put it in gear and then fire her up she moves
Pulled the driverside fender cut the hole. epoxied the crap out f every seam inside and out. siliconed the crap out of the floor vent and put it all back together.
radiator is mounted. engine has coolant in it.
Engine fires up and runs fairly well. hope to get it to the exhaust shop tomorrow or tuesday depending on weather then once its up and running i will be able to dial it in.
cleaned up the last of the wiring zip tied and loomed as much of it as i could.
still gotta get a heater core box.
as well as the above mentioned items. still have the lingering hydraulic clutch headache to battle with before i can test drive it
after fabbing up the battery tray and getting that big battery in there i am going to proceed with jsut one battery which from 1989-1993 was sufficient for dodge diesels
Pictures of the intake tubing all finished up what a pita[duhhh]