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Steering issues. Draglink and tie-rod.

972 views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  "D" 
#1 · (Edited)
Until I get the garage cleaned out enough to work on the jeep I had to hold off on moveing the Steering box forward as planned.

The issue is that I moved the front axle foward about 5" and didnt move the box. I know, I know. I should have done it when I did the lengthening but I basicly needed to get it out of my buddies garage. Then a month later I got married.

So the jeep has basicly sat until a few days ago. I want to get it out of storage and at least drive it to a meeting or somthing.

Heres how it is set up now.

The draglink goes from the pitman arm to the pass side flat topped knuckle (with high steering arm) in the hole closest to the axle. This hole would normally be used for the tierod.


The tie rod is in the stock locations under the springs. So basicly the drag link is behind the tie rod. They are both parrallel though. The wheels are turned a little in the first shot.

Edit>>> heres some pics.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/40408454/49050310iOFhJs
http://community.webshots.com/photo/40408454/49050463iqwZtZ


The only thing I feel right now driving it is that its a little touchy feely on the road. They may have to do with the caster deg more than anything. Its about 9 deg.

Is any one running like this or have any tips for me?

Thanks for your help
 
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#4 ·
Yeah it looks to me like the DL connects at the steering arm too close to the rotation, makes for quick and twitchy steering.

I wonder if a 2" ram assit would slow you down and regain the lost force while keeping your stuff kinda inline.

That too as you move the DL inward you loose leaverage on the knuckle this kills your steering force.
 
#5 ·
I could just make a bent draglink. This will at least get it to the first hole on the high steer arm might just work for now until My dads gets some of his stuff out of my garage.


Then I'll try and move the box to where it should be.
 
#10 ·
Well I was going to suggest hi-steer arms which put the tie-rod behind the axle, but after looking at those pics even that wouldn't fix it. The right way to fix it, as you already know, is to move the steering box forward. As mentioned above, your drag link connects too close to the ball joint which is causing the racecar driving response. Having it that close also accelerates the wear on that ball joint due to the increased load. Building a bent drag link as you describe would be :rainbow:, that's no different than running a straight drag link to that outer mounting point except that the bent one would be weaker. For now simply moving the knuckle end of the drag link out to the outer hole should suffice until you can move the box. The effect of a shorter pitman arm isn't worth the time/effort/money to get one IMO. This is temporary until you can move the box. The drag link won't be parallel to the axle but that's not really a big deal. So, move that drag link end for now and later consider the double hi-steer arms to get that tie-rod up and out of the way :beer:
 
#11 ·
I have the double arms as you describe. I just cannot use them since the rods intersect.

As for as the strength of the bent rod, It would be stronger than what I have now. This type of bend ______.------------ Doesnt have much structural deveation.

Espeacialy since it would be made out of solid chrome molly 4140.

thats besides the point. You are correct. I need to get my ass in gear and get the box moved forward so I can get the tie-rod up and out of the way.

The steering is much more slow than fast and it seems as if there is a dead spot while turning.

thanks for all your help, for now I'll leave it be and get to bugging my father to get his stuff out of my garage.


take care
 
#12 ·
"D" said:
I have the double arms as you describe. I just cannot use them since the rods intersect.
I think you misunderstood because on the arms I described there's no way for them to instersect. Check out this pic:

http://colorado4x4.org/er/histeer/Mvc-011f.jpg

The steering is much more slow than fast and it seems as if there is a dead spot while turning.
Hmmm... have someone watch your steering box, frame, and springs while you turn the wheel. I'll bet you're getting alot of frame flex when you turn. In other words, when you turn the wheel the box moves instead of the wheel turning. This happens even with the stock setup but it's more pronounced with bigger tires and/or moving the drag link closer to the ball joint (that increased force to turn the wheels that I mentioned above). Running a ram assist mounted to the housing alleviate this, but that's really treating the symptom and not the problem.

thanks for all your help, for now I'll leave it be and get to bugging my father to get his stuff out of my garage.
I'd at least try moving the drag link to the forward location. Might buy you some time until you can tear into it :beer:
 
#13 · (Edited)
yeah your right i didnt think you were talking about the wishbone style. Sorry bout that.


I will for sure try the most forward position. It;d be nice to be able to light wheel it until my pops can get here.

Thanks

EDIT...... The frame is stought. makes a matkins frame look like crap. ( no offense if anyone has a matkins frame.


Lots of structual support and lateral support for the box.

I think its just moving the suspension and axle when i try to steer
 
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