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which jeep to start with?

2K views 18 replies 16 participants last post by  HighHooder 
#1 ·
I am a chevy guy, but interested in building my first jeep. I will be using a 350tbi/700r4/231 and 2 10-bolts out of my 90 suburban (replaced by 454/unknown tranny/transfer and d60 front, 14-bolt rear). My buddy has an original Willys (unknown year) sitting in a barn gathering dust, and I'm trying to convince him to sell it to me. I don't know the year, but it's a 4 seater, no top or doors, everything works but the engine, which after a flat tire hasn't been started since 85. If they could find the key, maybe it would start:)

1) How much would a jeep like this be worth, given the lack of info? I would pay about 2,000 for a comparable wrangler or CJ, but does colectability drive up the price?

2) Would this make a good start for my first jeep, using my suburban drivetrain, or would I be better off with a CJ, wrangler, or bare frame?
 
#3 ·
For that drivetrain,I would say go for a CJ7. You have 93" of wheelbase that will fit without trouble that combo. Also you gain a better ride and some new style "conforts" as hanging pedals, maibe power steering, heater etc
Hope this help you ( You can also gain this thing in a later CJ5 but it only has 81" of wheelbase)
 
#4 ·
I'd look for a high mileage YJ Wrangler. The chances of finding a clean body are better than a CJ. And you would have something comfortable to sit in VS a Willy's.

For some reason your explanation of the Willy's in your buds place sounds like a Commando to me. Not alot of aftermarket for this vehicle.
 
#6 ·
for the record, this "commando" has the Willys emblem on both front fenders, i guess I should have included that

for a CJ or early wrangler, would it be better to start with a new frame or a used truck? (obviously the cheaper way)

Would need any welding to fit the engine mounts and tranny crossmembers, spring pads etc....?

what years/models of these jeeps have leaf springs at 4 corners? (i get lost in coils) preferably spring over?

Keep the TBI (I'm reasonably familiar with repairs) or switch to carb? (unknown to me) What model carb or what tbi pats should I be looking for?

Will be used for local mud pits/hills and Tellico/Uwharrie NC.
 
#7 ·
pkwaper said:
for a CJ or early wrangler, would it be better to start with a new frame or a used truck? (obviously the cheaper way)
CJ you might want to go with an aftermarket frame... I don't have any experience with the aftermarket frames, but I'm sure a couple of people on the board might have some. A used, stock YJ frame would probably be strong enough though.

If you're one of those snooty types who doesn't like square headlights, a lot of guys use a CJ body on a YJ frame, but like somebody said, a YJ tub will generally be in better shape, rust-wise. (They're galvanized on both sides as opposed to just one like the CJ.) You can also put just a CJ front clip on a YJ tub, but I digress...

Good luck,
Jake Harsha
 
#8 ·
If smog legality is any kind of an issue, get a YJ Wrangler with the clean body, and stronger frame, then buy the Title and VIN plates for the Willys. You could have one of those ultra rare square headlight Willys Jeeps, or the just as rare 40's - 50's vintage Wranglers.
 
#10 ·
83.5" cj5 on the later cj5's and that aint gonna cut it.

better off with a cj6 (good luck finding one) or a decent cj-7.

Better hope they dont have emissions where you live either.

Here in mo it has to be the manufactures of your vehicle own engine.

Some people have chebbys in there cjs here but they all have Special kit car titles with restriction.
 
#11 ·
VIN plate swaps can be worked with Jeeps because most DOT people are not that well versed in the different models of Jeeps, and because a fully built up Jeep is a little vague in its own vintage(axles, engines, trannys, etc....)

I doubt you could pull it off with most vehicles, unless you had an older car or truck that had similar looking pre and post smog era models.

For swapping VIN plates btween an old flatfender and a YJ, I would at least make the YJ look a little old, like flat fenders, dirty paint, maybe a flat dash conversion. Of course that depends up on wether you vehicles have to be "inspected" by DMV or not.
 
#12 ·
First off I do not like willies. I got a rust free 88YJ with hard top for 3500. I am now ripping the motor out for a 355 and NV4500 swap. Axles will follow. I considered a bare frame and body tub. But just that was somewhere around 5500 to 6000 new and delivered.
 
#16 ·
Since it is a Willys and a 4 -seater, maybe it is a Jeepester and not a Commando. I am pretty certain that Commandos were not built until after Kiaser took over building Jeeps.

If it is a Jeepester then it would be long enough for the the enginee/tranny combo you have.

What is the wheelbase length? This would help determine what it is.

If I were to build a Jeep now I would go with a bobbed Scrambler frame and tub. The frames are available form AFW and others and bobbed tubs from JP Offroad.
 
#17 ·
Um, any old Willy's CJ can seat four, back seat, duh!

As for using the Chevy running gear, You'd be better off with a YJ, the frame is wider, so you only have to outboard the front springs 1/2" per side to bolt up your GM 10bolt front, the rear you'll just have to move the perches on the axles, but the 10 bolt rear isn't a strong axle, but since you have it, use it and look for an older 12 bolt or J-10 dana 44 or Model 20 rear with factory one peice shafts. The YJ will have Saginaw steering, which would have to be fabbed up on the Willys, the YJ has a rectangular tube frame, the Willy's has some stuff stamped out of old airplane parts and recycled coffee cans. Find a whipped 4cyl YJ with a good body, gut it, and slap your stuff in. You'll need a GM computer if you're keeping the one in the Suburban, but the wiring is pretty easy, a buddy of mine just swaped a TBI 350, 700R4, and S-10 NP231 into his Wrangler and it was super easy.
 
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